OK, so why does Vaseline shine up Fuchs?
 

Ok, I've looked in the archives, but can't find the answer to this question.

How does Vaseline work to condition and shine up the anodized silver part of Fuchs wheels. And another question is why do the wheels get dull to begin with?

Thanks

The vaseline was recommended by the factory, in the owner's manual, to enable the owner to protect the wheel and easily remove brake dust before it corroded the alloy. It doesn't seem to be a good idea, as it seems as though it might easily collect even more udesirable stuff, and I have never met anyone who actually does it.

Time to chime in here if you do.

This goes back to a time before various polymer based 'waxes' were available. Maybe carnauba would just melt from brake heat.

I think oxidation, UV, minerals in the water, and 'sandblasting' would all cause the anodized and painted portions to dull.

I use Vaseline on my wheels. Works like magic. Don't know what makes it work but it does.

Can you use it in chrome wheel ?

Thanks

Prials,

Maybe I'll try it then. Do you buff it off, leave a film on, or what?

see the post a few days ago: "ruined my fuchs", or something like that. in fact, here it is.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/181847-ackk-i-wrecked-my-fuchs.html?highlight=fuchs

VooDoo. If you swing a dead chicken over your head while you rub the vaseline, it works even better. And that jerk at work will come down with the measels.

just did my fuchs w/vaseline tonite. look like new. amazing.

nostatic,

Sothat's what jerk chicken is.

The petroleum jelly goes on the WHOLE wheel, not just the silver part. The black centers benefit even more than the silver ring. I do it every time I wash the wheels and they always look fantastic.

I let it sit for at least 24 hours. Then use paper towels to take it off. Takes less effort and gives better results but don't let it sit for 72 hours thinking more is better. My experience is that 24 seems to be optimum. Works very well on the entire wheel. Do be sure to clean the stuff off afterward in every nook and cranny or it really looks like crud when the brake dust starts to fly.

OK. It's worth a try.

Freeman on that other post said to rub it in, wait an hour, and buff off.

It works wonders on both the silver & black sections.

My wheels were UGLY when the car arrived & a couple of washes & some vaseline & they now look very good.

And it's 'Porsche approved' in the owner's manual.

Ian

I too want to know more of the science behind it... I talked to my dad, a retired metalurgist (no not lead and gold, stainless steels ;)) and he said it shouldn't really matter.

Truth is, it totally does. Rule #1, never take pics of a fuchs wheel for sale without givin 'er the vaseline rubdown :)

Not voo-doo, but true-true-long
 

I wouldn't have believed it either. BUT-it does work. I foolishly sprayed Westley's Bleche-wite on my tires and some dripped down on the wheels. I let it soak in reeeel good. After scrubbing off the tires and wheels and letting them dry I saw, with horror, that the Bleche-wite had etched or otherwise removed something (what was the something?-you tell me-anodizing? wax? clear coat?) leaving the drip mark impression on the wheels. It's important to note that it was NOT a residue left behind. Now-know that I've been collecting various kinds of cars for 25+ years-I know my way around cars. I tried everything to correct the problem. Re-washing. Polishing lightly-don't want to remove more anodizing. POR. Nothing worked-it looked terrible-bad enough that I was going to send them to Al Reed. I posted my stupidity more to vent than find a solution. John kindly posted the vaseline solution. I knew his name from all the excellent advice he gave others, so I figured-what do I have to lose? I gave it a try and damned if it didn't CURE the problem-not just made it better. I have no idea on the hows or whys, but you can not tell there was ever a problem. I rubbed in the vaseline using my fingers. The marks gradually faded. They didn't dissappear immediately like when you cover a blemish with something wet only to have it come back when it dries. I did the entire wheel-black and silver. I then buffed it totally dry and clean with a clean cotton towel. The wheels look better than ever. I wish I took before and after pics. It was not a subtle problem. My wife noticed immediately and ripped me for being an idiot for wrecking our car.

Go to your garage right now with a jar of vaseline and have some fun.....er.....polishing the Fuchs. You will be amazed.

But you're not actually touching the metal ,you're filling in the surface of the clearcoat with a reflective i.e. "wet look" compound ,put some vaseline on a tattoo ,same exact effect ,nice and shiny looking for a while.......kinda like that G27 crap on the infomercials ,all it does is fill in scratches with a coloured ,reflective compound that eventually washes right off....it will work on chrome to because that's just another kind of clearcoat......

Hmm... I think there is something more... There's gotta be! I had white discolorations in the silver that would not come off... I washed em with the good wheel cleaner from Griot's (the safe stuff), and then tried to polish them out with some imperial hand glaze. Nothing.... still looked like crap, uneven hazy, etc. The vaseline worked, and has survived washes and brake dust buildup, and they still look good... that's why I think there is some sort of chemical reaction between the anodized surface and the goo... just my .02 of course.

And Audi2.7t, I had a '00 S4 with that same motor, what a great motor ;)

It also works well on faded black trim. Rub it on very sparingly. You shouldn't see any residue on the surface once you've finished the initial application. I don't really think that applying a thick layer and removing after a "soak in" period is any more effective. I haven't seen them in a while, but I'm pretty sure that the factory recommended process is just to rub & buff.
Joe

I think there is something more than just a shiny clearcoat as well. I recently did just my rear wheels when they were off the car. My black centers were pretty faded and I had some white discoloration on the silver rim. I spread the vaseline on thick and let it sit for 2 days, wiped it off with shop paper towels, and the discoloration was gone and the black centers looked good as new. I think the trick is to just put it on and leave it to do its magic, I don't think buffing does anything.

bottom line
 

Those who have tried it know it works. You can say it "fills in scratches and then washes off" or "it's voodoo", but I'll bet the sceptics simply haven't tried it. I haven't seen one post from someone who has tried it and have it not work.

This is a common thing among all car message boards-lotsa armchair comments without the actual hands on experience. My personal rule is this-If I have actually done it, and it works, I'll comment or post on it. If I haven't done it, but have an opinion-I keep it to myself until I have proven or disproven it on my own. It was a real treat sifting through the archives on the Swepco/synthetic/ dino debate-amazing how only synthetic works in some guys cars while sythetic won't work at all in others. I ordered swepco-I'll post actual results. Here it is one more time-I did the vaseline thing-just the other day. It worked. No-I didn't leave it wet. No-there is no residue left on the wheels. I polished it off completely. It is totally dry. The badness went away. No-it wasn't residue-the anodizing was damaged. Try it-you'll like it:).

you don't believe in voodoo? I'd be careful if I was you, man.

I've used the stuff for a number of years now on my fuchs and get comments all the time. I show the car at club events but also drive it alot when I'm around. You have to remove the extra or the dust and everything else will stick to it. I'll put it on using my fingers only to get around the lug nuts and leave it on until just before I take it for a spin. It really is pretty amazing. Keeps that look for quite awhile.

There is detailing sprays for under hood after they get a good wash. The used car dealers love that stuff. I think it is silicone based. Makes the engine compartment look like it rolled off the showroom floor. Pretty funny that people fall for that and think they buy a better car, because the underhood is shiny?

George

"you're filling in the surface of the clearcoat"

- Fuchs are not clearcoated. Maybe you meant into the anodized layer?

I always use KY instead. Reduces friction on the wheels run cooler and it really drives the women crazy.

I meant "clearcoat" as a generalization of an opaque coating forming a barrier between the elements and the finished material....maybe Waynes next book should be titled "Vaseline ,101 uses and counting".........:D

hmmm... does Vaseline do the same thing on Cookie Cutters?

It's kind of like getting something wet, makes a smooth reflective surface for light to shine off of instead of a rough surface that diffuses light. You could pour Mobile 1 or WD40 on it and it would be similar, but probably not as long lasting and much messier.

I dont know about you guys, but if my wife caught me going to the garage with a jar of vaseline with some lame explanation of rubbing it onto the p-car "tires" I would never hear the end of it. Never, ever. Thus, I make sure she is out shopping or something and get it done quick. Also, buying a monster jar at the local store is another great opportunity to tell the clerl you rub it on your "tires". Jeez, who would have thought owning a p-car would be so hilarious?

But that's just it, the anodizing is not an "opaque coating" nor is opaque the term for what you want anyway. It alters the surface of the material itself and... it's porous.

Vasoline gets down into the pores unlike say a wax. I do not know how it achieves its effect nor do any of the other posters above. Ifyou really want to find out, I suspect you will need a chemist and a metrologist -- i.e. a hefty research budget. The latter measure things esp. surface roughness - and you can find them at most chip research facilities.

Randy,

I think you are right. It does fill the small pores that exist on the anodized portions of the rim. Which makes sense if you think about the rims getting cloudy as they get old. After using a gentle wheel cleaner, my wheels looked more dull. I thought it was because of the acid, perhaps it is due to the fact that the rim was truly clean and this is how they really looked "Un-masked." I guess I prefer the vasoline mask.

Thanks for the comments guys.

.....but does it work on cookie cutters?

What about that new warming liquid? Will it heat my tires up sooner?

I don't need no Dyno run to know if Vaseline works or not. I can feel it in the seat of my pants , er , ummmm maybe thats the Vaseline I feel down there. Excuse me just a second ... got some more rubbin to do.

Woooohooooooo

The Burt Reynolds character w/ the Vaseline in his cowboy boots in that movie w/ Demi Moore as a stripper! LOL!

It should work great on my paint then. Might load up the buffing pad though.

Well, we will have a definitive answer as to whether it "heals" the anodizing or just fills it in before too long I suspect. If the run marks reappear on my wheels then it was temporary. If not, it's a permanent fix for some things like the damage my wheels sustained.

Fwiw-Today I asked a friend who's a metalurgist about the mysteries of vaseline. He actually worked for Reynolds aluminum in their wheel division. He said that they used vaseline all the time for many things and that it's one of those "wonder substances". Then he got real quiet and wouldn't talk about it anymore. What's up with that?

Anyway-I'll post long term results.

Unfortunately, it wears off.

My anodization looks like a previous owner used westley's on the tires, there are white runs and spots on the rims. Vaseline makes them look great, but each wash removes a little bit of the magic elixir....:mad:

I also notice a slight increase in brake dust on the wheels when using vaseline.

I had a problem with the wheel cleaner etching into my rims leaving marks. I don't disagree with using vasoline but you can also use Marine Past Wax. It works the same way. After you apply it, let it set, wipe it to a nice shine. Apply several coats this way.

One application should last several months then it has to be re-applied. I believe the reason is because the heat the rim receives eventually evaporates it.

Steve

"A Porsche does more then just go fast in a straight line"

BUT DOES IT WORK ON COOKIE CUTTERS?!?