Can someone explain "Anodized"

[copper]

I have been researching info on restoring my Fuch rims.

Can someone tell me what exactly it means when they are "Anodized" and what purpose this serves?

I have seen some members have sanded theirs down, removed the anodization and polished them up.

Are there pros and cons to this?

Any help is appreciated.

Jim

[Paulporsche]

If you try a search, you will find lots of info/discussion/techniques/photos/explanations on this.

[copper]

Thanks Paul

I've searched the posts and have found a ton of info on polishing/refinishing fuch's. But what I haven't found is an explanation of what exactly Anodization is, and what benefit is has to the wheels and pros or cons of sanding it off and polishing.

I have seen the results of polishing/refinishing and there are some fantastic works of art out there. I just like to have more info to make a more reasonable decision as to how to go.

And please, no "Send them to Al Reed" suggestions. I'm aware of that one.

Jim

[kstylianos]

Anodization is a chemical/electrical process where an aluminum oxide layer is built up on the surface of the Al piece. Often times the anodization bath is colored to give the oxide a tint. Aluminum will oxidize on its own (that’s why bare Al turns dull and requires constant polishing to keep its mirror like shine), anodization just speeds it up. The oxide layer is a very hard and durable and serves as protection or decoration.

[2002M3Drew]

Personally, I do not care much for the polished look on the Fuchs. The anodized outer rim with the painted black center is a unique look among the current crop of alloys out there!

Anodization is a controlled (and intended, obviously) oxidation process that produces a sheen finish, and a protective coating of sorts on the aluminum. When people remove the anodization and polish them up, they are simply getting to the bare aluminum. I hear that the "true" anodization process is quite complex, and not many wheel refinishers are able to do this correctly.

I have the Fuchs on my car, and my anodized portions were quite dirty and stained. I tried to use regular wheel cleaners for aluminum and none worked. Amazingly enough, the factory handbook suggestion of using plain old petroleum jelly is the ticket. It cleans the anodized part almost magically...it's amazing. If youn haven't tried that, it's a cheap investment (vasoline cheaper than car cleaner products!) and worth a shot.

[2002M3Drew]

Ha ha ha...looks like I got beaten by a minute or so!

[copper]

The Vaseline works great. On the wheels that is...

But the problem is that the wheels are 35 years old and well worn. There are numerous scratches in the lips and leftover adhesive from old weights.

Regardless of how many applications of vaseline I use, the lips just always seem cloudy and not very pretty. The scratches are not too deep, and in a sample spot, I sanded one down and smoothed it out, but had to get past the anodization, so I realize what my task must be.

I have adjusted my search criteria and did find more detailed info on the sanding and polishing procedures and equipment.

Thanks again to all for your help.
I will post pics once they're done.

Jim

[aj88cab]

Here's what I know about anodizing

Anodizing is an eletrochemical process that basically forms a thick layer of aluminum oxide that is not really a coating but part of the aluminium (think core10 steel). The thickness and reflectance (specularity), and even color, can be controlled by the length of time and type/amount of chemicals and/or dyes. It is not a surface you can polish. When it gets scratched or damaged it can't really be repaired, only stripped and replaced. I suppose that the magnusium content of Fuchs make the final layer composition a little different, but I guess the concept is the same.

Here is a web site that might have more info that anybody needs on anodizing. There are others.

anodizing

Hope that helps.

[joefrantz]

Something that I don't think has been discussed much is the "all or nothing" nature of repair on annodized wheels.

If you want to eliminate scratches, rash, etc in the annodized surface, it has to be removed and re-applied.

With polished wheels, imperfections can be sanded and the area re-polished.

Its a tough call. A lot depends on how you use the car and your tolerance for accumulating dings and imperfections over time.

I personally prefer the look of unflawed annodized wheels over polished wheels, but I think that the "patina" of worn annodized wheels can detract from the appearance of an otherwise nice car.

I've recently refinished my own wheels to a polished finish. I'm still on the fence about having them re-annodized, but I'm leaning toward leaving them polished for the maintenance flexibility.

Joe

[nick-moss]

I refurbish Fuchs and to get the correct finish the original paint, anodizing and brake dust is removed in a chemical dip.



The rims are then machined to remove and curb rash and corrosion.

Polish the rim upstands and petals.



Anodize



then mask and paint

[Joe Bob]

Nothing wrong with a good polish and then a clear powder coat....

[copper]

Nick

What chemicals do you use for your dip?
How long do you dip them for?

Jim

[copper]

Should the following steps work?

1. Chemical dip/wash.
2. Sanding with grades from 250 to 1500
3. Polish with Mothers
4. Mid/high speed buff.
5. Mask and paint.

Sound fair?

Recommended chemicals for #1?
Mothers good as a polish? I currently use Eagle 1.

Jim

[nick-moss]

Apart from the painting all the work is outsourced, there is no way I could buy or use whatever chemicals the company uses. They are a company that refurbishes rims for all sorts of cars such as BMWs and Mercedes, they also do the machining for me. There is alsmost certainly a similar company near your that does similar work. The polishing is done by a specialist company and you could paint on that.

[twin plugged targa]

I disagree with the statement that anodizing cannot be polished!.
It cannot be polished aggresively otherwise the layer will be removed.
However, after time the surface can become less desireable, this is when you can either try the vaseline method or.....if there is oxidation build up or the vaseline just does not seem to work....
Use a mild polish with a wax or, teflon base polish.
I have successfully polished my Fuchs and anodized aluminum on yachts with a Starbrite Teflon polish which can be picked up at any boat store. This is a very mild polish and leaves a good shine and protective surface. I have also used this polish to protect stainless steel and chrome on yachts.
I have used this polish for years on my car painted surfaces and believe one day it will provide a cure for Aids and Cancer when applied correctly!
Seriously though, I have found this ploish to bead water and protect better than Meguirs Gold class or other expensive Carnuba waxes and I am not on commision!
There are a lot of time wasting products out there (ive tried a few).
But the Starbrite teflon polish is not one of them!
I have probabley hand polished more miles of paintwork/metal than most detailing employees!
Try it!
Ben

[Kryptonite]

Hey Copper,
I used first aircraft stripper(Tal- Strip 2 ) then" Lye" from TSC to strip paint and anodizing then wet sand to 600grit.Polish done by local shop approx $ 50 each, have one finished -looks good!!
We use place called Dependable Anodizing -905 475 1229 -in Toronto area if you want to finish as original .
Manfred.

[copper]

Hey Manfred

Sorry I didn't hook up with you on Saturday.
Worked late on Friday night. Ended up sleeping most of Saturday.
(Shame it was nice weather for a cruise)

I'll drop you an email.

Jim