Plastic shift coupler inserts...not oblong?
 

This thread offering "no-slop" brass bushings....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?threadid=184545

...forces me to ask this question: Is there supposedly a similar plastic insert with "no-slop" ( no "oblong holes") that was originally meant for the 914...that fits the 911 coupling? By having a tight fit, yet still being slightly deformable plastic, we may have the compromise we're looking for that won't affect trans life ( see also this thread....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=128478&perpage=20&highl ight=universal%20shift%20coupler&pagenumber=1)
---Wil

Wil,
the replacement bushing I ordered through Pelican a couple years ago (maybe its made my Weltmeister? I can't remember) has no slop i.e. round holes.

Made an appreciable difference in shift precision.

Yes, it is Weltmeister who makes those. I have a set kicking around that I'll use someday.

John

I installed a set of the Weltmeister coupler bushings last night. They do have round holes and produce a non-sloppy coupler.

just got a few sets from pelican. big improvement.

Here's another thread w/ lots of info on shifter improvement I had mine made by a local racer that also owns a machinew shop. Huge improvement.

Bill, after using that setup for a year, do you have any thoughts or feedback about the pros and cons of the solid bushing?

Bill:
your quoted link is the second link that I offered up ... :)

The core question here is one reinforced by Jim Garfield....we all agree that a zero-slop bushing works wonders...it's just that the "Weltmeister" version would allow a small degree of compression in the zero-tolerance plane...whereas the solid bronze bushings won't and can conceivably add to long term trans wear....

Seems to me the reasonable two options are either a full, proper universal joint or the solid no slop plastic insert versions on the stock coupler......

So Bill, a longer term update on your use of bronze bushings in the stock coupler would be helpful and insightful.....as always....

Wil

OK...help me clear up what should be a simple question....

I looked at the Pelican catalogue...is the round hole version of the bushings part number C-424-223-90 ? I don't see a specific reference to this being Weltmeister...but from the texst description it seems to be the ones we're talking about here ( John Walker ?) being plastic with round holes. I *still* remember seeing these as red, not black , somewhere, therefore the 914 link, I thought....

---Wil

that is the correct pelican part number. the catalog picture isn't clear enough to show the round hole, so i had to call and ask. wouldn't hurt to mention it in the catalog.

Sorry, don't always have time to follow up on everything

Very pleased, the shifts are all positive w/ exc. feel, I had this back to back w/ a Stomski, they are equivalent in feel, the light friction fit on the guide is also appreciated. Hayden has expressed concerns about some possible abnormal wear we will see after another few years. Unless I break down and buy a split lock up lsd from Geary, in which case i'll do a full Wevo internal gateshift at then same time

Re: Plastic shift coupler inserts...not oblong?
 

What happened to this thread with the brass bushing group buy?

I have the replacement bushings (round holes) but I never tried them because I felt they would not improve the shift feel. Iwas going to use the WEVO coupler. Maybe I should try them. How much better are the metal bushings, has anyone tried both?

Group buy for the bronze units is still in-play....see the thread....

Wil

Re: Plastic shift coupler inserts...not oblong?
 

Oddly enough, I can't get this page to load. I get a thread doesn't exist error. :(

I have the "round hole" bushing upgrade the they are an improvement over stock for sure. I guess I am not understanding the issues with premature tranny wear, assuming the linkage alignment is correct, synchros are good, and clutch is adjusted and working properly.... Otherwise, any one of these things could lead to premature wear....

Brad:
You need to look at Wevoid's response in one of the threads...it takes some mental imaging to understand but makes perfect sense..

The oblong holes do introduce slop..but they act like a poor version of a universal joint. Having brass bushes with round holes and no slop only allows one degree of freedom...not two as a universal would. This would only work if the shift rod linkage AND the mating part from the trans are facing each other in perfect harmony...that is...perfectly concentric. Of course, in the real world it isn't like this, and the two mating rods are probably "off" radially by a small amount. It's this offset that could cause internal trans wear much like always resting your hand on the shift lever. Now...if you go "no slop" with plastic bushings...it would tend to limit the second degree of freedom just like the bronze "no slop" bushings...but the plastic will yield or deform a bit to accommodate any mis-alignment...certainly a lot better than the bronze ones...

So...IMHO..you go either with the spendy true universal...or you go with the tight-fit plastic....but you shouldn't go with the in-between bronze bushings.

-- Wil

What your saying makes perfect sense. I'm curious what you mean by "internal trans wear". What specific components do you think will feel the brunt of the "wear"?

SmileWavy

You need to talk to others like Wevoid ( from "Wevo" fame) on the specific components that are likely to be directly affected....I don't have this level of exeprience. I do, however, understand the principles of a universal joint and the related guidance never to rest your hand on a shift knob while driving....for doing similar damage to internals.

Wil

If I were to make my own shift coupler, using a universal joint for 1/2 or 3/8 hand tools, do I need to use the shaft from another coupler so it has the fine spline? Well, what I actually want to know is if the spline is precision and fits another spline on the inside of teh shift rod in the tunnel, or if it just gives general grip, in which case I would just roll a generic fine spline on it. My father works at a knurling company so I'm sure I could find something similar but not exact. Any thoughts? Maybe I could get by w/o a spline, I'm not an aggressive shifter.