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Pressing nylon fuel lines onto barb fittings

I have a leak in the soft nylon fuel line from my fuel distributor to the WUR. I cut off the end where the leak was and have tried to press the barb fitting back into the end of the fuel line, but this seems almost impossible.

Below is a post showing a special tool to hold the fuel line while you tap the new fitting in place, however I'm curious if there are any other methods, or workaround solutions.


CIS W.U.R. 73 1/2 superceded

Any suggestions other than buying a whole new line? Anyone find another method which works?
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Old 09-27-2004, 01:10 PM
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There have been lots of threads on this. Apparently what works best is to heat the line in boiling water, heat the fitting w/ a heat gun, and then push together.

I have also found a flexible line that uses hose clamps to replace the WUR line. If you search my name, you will get lots of info.
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Old 09-27-2004, 01:28 PM
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Start-up Injector Fuel line leak

Don't cut the old nylon lines off the fittings! I wouldn't heat the fittings prior to new line installation. Jim
Old 09-27-2004, 01:39 PM
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Has anyone found a good method of holding the line fixed without the Baum tool?

Seems I have three options:

1. Get Baum tool, heat line in water and tap on.

2. Use an alternate fuel hose with the existing fittings, clamp on with hose clamps.

3. Replace the line with factory version.

I'd like to reuse the fitting and line, since I only had to remove about 10mm of old line where the break was. However, it isn't economical to buy the baum tool and I'd rather not replace the whole line and don't like the idea of hose clamps on high-pressure fittings.

Anyone make their own tool or have another method which worked?
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Old 09-27-2004, 02:08 PM
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Follow the threads; they lead to an alternate solution for installing the line:

CIS W.U.R. 73 1/2 superceded
Old 09-27-2004, 02:41 PM
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OK, it's clear to me now... You purchased the clamp-on collar from McMaster in a matching ID and used that in place of the tool. When I read your description I hadn't read your parts list so when you were talking set screws I thought you were still talking about the Baum tool. Good idea!

I'll try some such solution. Did you find that heating the lines in water made a noticeable difference in how easily they pressed in?
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Old 09-27-2004, 02:55 PM
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Heating in water was the only way I tried it, so no other first hand information. I believe John Walker said he thought it made a 5% improvement at best so the advantage is probably in the "noise". Jim
Old 09-27-2004, 03:38 PM
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Does anyone have a good source to replace the fittings (banjo and injector) on the ends? Iíve been planning to redo my old lines but it would be nice to be able to rebuild with new fittings as well.
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Old 09-27-2004, 03:56 PM
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I bought the clamps but never used them.
I used a heat gun to WARM the line and the barb and was able to push the line on. After it cooled I gave it a hard pull and couldn't move them.
I fear that if you heat them too hot they may become brittle. It was a pretty easy thing to do.

Pat
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:30 PM
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Pat,

Did you use the Baum tool?
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:35 PM
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No, just light heat and my fingers.
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Old 09-27-2004, 05:31 PM
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I used the "Jim Sims" method to replace the line between my fuel distributor and throttle control regulator. 10 feet of line and 2 collars cost me $12.00. I could have bought a new line with the banjo already fitted for $25 from Por$che. Or a new complete assembly for $242.

I tried without heating and was unable to get the line started. The JW 5% benefit is in the beginning and well worth the effort.

Be warned, it is easy to press to far and poke a hole in the line. As Jim suggests in his post, buy extra hose to practice, you will need it.
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Old 09-27-2004, 05:35 PM
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Banjo fitting source:

http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/fuel-fittings-1.jpg
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I pressed a injector barb end back into some fuel line (well it had a freshly cut end) to fix a leak. I also found it nearly impossible but my ultra-crafty father had the fix:

Hold plastic tube in a small 3 (or 4 for that matter) jaw chuck, like off a turret lathe in my case. Leave about 1/2 or just a little more than you need sticking out of the face of the chuck. Anything similar to a 3 jaw chuck could work for this. Then put this on an arbor press and push your barb in like magic! I suppose you could tap it in with a hammer, etc, as well, but it's not nearly as slick. Good luck!
Old 09-27-2004, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by smestas
Does anyone have a good source to replace the fittings (banjo and injector) on the ends? Iíve been planning to redo my old lines but it would be nice to be able to rebuild with new fittings as well.

BTW, if you want a different look, McMaster also stocks white nylon.
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Old 09-27-2004, 07:11 PM
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So last night I came home and made my own Baum tool. Very easy.

I took a small 2x2x2 block of hardwood scrap I had. Drilled a 13/64 hole through it (just shy of 5mm) then turned the block on its side and drilled four scew pilot holes. Took the block to the bandsaw and cut a slab off it bisecting the first hole I drilled. The pilot holes were then perfectly lined up so that I could put the fuel line in the hole and clamp it between the pieces of wood using the four screws. This caul held the line without deforming it so that I could tap the old fitting back into the end of the line with no problems.
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Old 09-28-2004, 06:37 AM
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echris,

Sounds great.

Did you use any heat?

Did you clamp the tool down to the bench or hand hold it?

Jim,

Thanks for the link to the fitting supplier.
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Last edited by Paulporsche; 09-28-2004 at 06:59 AM..
Old 09-28-2004, 06:56 AM
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I'll try to post pictures tomorrow. No heat necessary and I just hand held the block. Making it big(ish) 2x2x2 gives a good amound of surface area to clamp with and plenty of area to hold on to. Four wood screws clamped nicely.

I also drilled into the hole at the end so it was just oversize. This let me tap the fitting in and have it supported the whole way and not have 1/2 inch of line sticking out the end to flop around when you're tapping the fitting in. The handle of a big screwdriver was all I used to tap with.

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