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Fuel Tank Sealing
I know this thread has been repeated over and over as I have read many of them and obtained some good info.
My 69 911T has been having some rough running problems. Gone through many options, but after speaking with some other members and reading different threads, I think there may be some rust problems in my tank. When I took the fuel sender out to replace the gasket, the bottom 1/4 of the sender was covered in a reddish brown coating. I presume this is rust related. Questions: 1. What is the best way to inspect the tank for rust. (I'm sure it exists, more interested in the level of deterioration.) 2. Once I replace my fuel filter, being a sealed unit with the two nipple like ends, is there a way to determine if there are particles in it? 3. How do I access the filter screen within the tank proper, and how do I assess whether it needs replacing? Thanks Jim
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Jim Dean LL.B. - London, Ont, Canada. 1969 911T "Blood Orange" Euro (Brought over from Germany in 86) Engine and brake system rebuilds 2006 & 2007 "Oversteer scares passengers, understeer scares drivers." |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 156
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Well, if therer's rust on the sender, you can bet there are particles in the filter. You could cut it open and look if it's not clear plastic.
As far as the screen in the tank, on mine, a '67, the screen is attached to the fitting that takes the fuel line. Unscrew the fitting, and you have the screen. Cordially, CW
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Charlie '67 S Tangerine |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,758
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Chas is correct and you can see if the screen is clogged. But, if you want to look in the tank, you can see a lot from the sender hole with a pen light.
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Thanks a bunch.
I wasn't able to see too much as I only had the light of my zippo to go by... ![]() Jim
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Jim Dean LL.B. - London, Ont, Canada. 1969 911T "Blood Orange" Euro (Brought over from Germany in 86) Engine and brake system rebuilds 2006 & 2007 "Oversteer scares passengers, understeer scares drivers." |
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 109
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I think I'm in the same situation. So, question...what's the best way to fix a rusty tank:
1) buy a new reproduction tank 2) take the tank to someone to have it boiled and sealed 3) buy a tank sealing kit from eastwood or other and DIY 4) some other option I'm not aware of???
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Andy Ring 69 911T 72 911T |
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Andy
I guess it depends on how comfortable you are with doing your own work. I've only begun to work on my car this year, but have become more confident as each job passes. Having reviewed most, if not all of the threads on this topic, I feel that the best solution would be the POR treatment. Pretty much every user who has done it has nothing but good to say about it. I've seen numerous comments on problems and large bills from radiator repair shops. I've seen some comments on compatibility problems with repro tanks, and there's also the issue of keeping it stock. Mine's not breaking through and appears to be just surface rust on the inside walls, so I will be going with the POR treatment. Much cheaper than a repro or a rad shop job. (done properly) Jim
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Jim Dean LL.B. - London, Ont, Canada. 1969 911T "Blood Orange" Euro (Brought over from Germany in 86) Engine and brake system rebuilds 2006 & 2007 "Oversteer scares passengers, understeer scares drivers." |
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Montana 911
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Jim you are on it....go with the POR kit and you will be happy with the results. I am no mechanic and I did this with no issue, except a wrench for the drain plug on the bottom of my tank!
Hints: Don't do this project in the garage with the gas hot water heater. Get the drain plug tool...or fab one up as I did. Be careful with the the small fuel lines on the back of the tank. Take your time, rotate the tank often with the POR inside so you get complete coverage. Don't use the good funnel from the kitchen, the product will not come off and the wife will be angry! Use some regular POR15 on the bottom (external) part of the tank to toughen it up as well.
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H.D. Smith 2009 997.2 S 3.8 PDK 2019 Ford Ranger Lariat FX4 Baby Raptor 2019 Can Am Renegade 1000R XC 2020 Yamaha YFZ450R |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: So. Cal.
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I'm in the process of redoing the tank for my '69. I'll use the POR sealing kit. Right now I'm removing the coating from the outside of the tank & have done the bottom & still have the top to do. What a chore. I will be painting the tank with POI-15 on the outside after I seal the inside. I'm going to put a length of chain in the tank & rotate it around a bunch to break down as much of the inside rust as I can. Then I'll clean it out with the POR Marine Cean before I use the sealer. The brown stuff on the botttom of your sender unit is probably a shelac like substance deposited from setting in gasoline for a long time.
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Marv Evans '69 911E |
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Quote:
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1979 911 SC Targa http://www.pelicanparts.com/gallery/Mike_Kast |
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fancytown
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: DEE-troit
Posts: 1,726
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I just picked mine up today. I went the Gas Tank "Renu" process. It's definitely heavier, as the inside, and outside gets coated, but I don't think I'll ever have to mess with my tank again. I'm very happy with the results.
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all cars sold. |
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