Another welder question
 

Anyone know how a Lincoln Weld Pak 100 with conversion kit is for patching panels?

Thanks,

David

The problem is that the Weld Pak 100 doesn't come set up for gas welding (need the gas regulators) only flux core which is really not suitable for sheet metal. You end up with a lot of burn through. Lincoln is an excellent welder, but I would make sure you get one that allows you to use gas. You can get the regulators for the 100, but you have to pay extra. In the long run you will be glad you spent the extra $100 or so for the ability to use gas. Is the conversion kit you are talking about the gas regulators? If so, then you are good to AS LONG AS you don't try to weld sheet metal with the .035 wire spool that comes with the welder. Make sure you pick up a spool of .028 wire for use with sheetmetal.

My advice is not to buy a 110V machine. The output is typically too low. Buy a 230 volt primary machine.

humbly I have to disagree about the 110, I have lincoln 135, and I have been using it for 3 years and have yet to find a part on my car it did not weld up just fine.

If you can afford it I would get a higher model like the 135 because you will eventually want the Continuous full-range adjustment of voltage and wire feed speed allows for fine-tuning of the arc and precise control of heat input.

the 135

Jim

If you only do bodywork yes. Who ever bought a mig welder then didn't try to weld bigger and better 'things'.

Yesterdays posts about engine mount bars was typical. You can not adequately weld those with a typical 110V machine.

Thanks guys.

The conversion kit is suppose to make it so you weld with gas. How it works and what it does i am not sure. It is like $115.

Going to 220 seems a bit extreme. To hire an electrician to come over and wire it up cost big dough ( in my world). It would make more sense to hire someone else to do the work which would be a lot cheaper for the stuff i am doing.

Someone on the board volunteered to help me out but unfortunately my car inspection runs out tomorrow and in the state it is in it would not pass for a sticker. I screwed up my planning.

I also like the 110 because i can pack up and use basically anywhere. Hopefully when I learn I will be able to help others and return many of the favors I have already gotten here.

David

I have a guy down the street that can do anything structure related for me. As a matter of fact, I have a small rot hole in my frame I am bringing him to do. I wouldn't do that if I had the 220V King Kong 3080 Welder. I try to know my limitations when it comes to jeopodizing myself and others. Some things are better left to the experts in my book.

Thanks again,

David

Chicken. :)

Whatever sound a chicken makes back at ya.

Half the fun is welding/building it. The other half is seeing if it breaks.

I had a Lincoln 220 volt machine that worked great, but I sold it in favor of the 110 v because of portability. Every time I'd want to help a buddy in need it was a chore to get the 220 hookup.. a real pain in the butt. The difference in weld capability in the thicker end of the steel spectrum is 1/16" of an inch (if I remember right the 110 will do 1/4" and the 220 can do 5/16") If you really need to get the higher capacity (5/16">) I'd just do multiple weld passes??? I bought mine to do the thin stuff primarily 95% of the time.

Multiple passes might look good, but you need amps for penetration. I have a 230 volt machine so no one will borrow it. Opposite logic.

I replaced the front pan with the lincoln pro-100. It is the flux-core model that can be upgraded to gas. I have not yet upgraded. It welded the panels fine, but a little messy. I have heard that the gas upgrade solves this problem.

I agree that you need amps for penetration. But I also wanted portability around the garage. I went with a Century welder that is set up for 110 volts, but draws 20 amps as opposed to the standard 110 volt welder which only draws 15 amps. Good penetration up to 1/4" with one pass. A 15 amp welder will penetrate up to about 1/8" which for most home welding is sufficient.

I have the Linc 100 and 25-75% gas. The 135 is better because of the adjustments. I built my own roll cage with the 100. I welded up a sepaerate intersection of tubing and had it tested. The penetration was just right. Any thicker and I would have had to use a bigger welder.

I did convert it back to a flux core wire welder when I welded the plates on the longitudinals. It splattered more, but I got better pentration. The plates were thicker than the 18 gauge body metal and I needed to favor the plate with the arc. Seemed like the wire feed did that better than MIG. Same thing when I welded brackets on my trailer.

Maybe someone can chime in and explain why that is.

Flux core wire is 'rougher' and therefore the drive rolls should grab better and slip less.

I thought proper roll cages were moly steel that had to be tig welded?

I've been using a Lincoln 100 with Co2/Argon for several years now, and the only project I ever had a problem with was trying to weld on an american car axle use in a trailer, but that was a solid chunk of metal about 3" across.

I'm planning on upgrading my welder, and I'm thinking of going with the 220v model; one concern that's holding me back a little is that it's not as portable.

Here's a good deal on a ready-to go welding setup: http://www.weldingmart.com/Qstore/p001647.htm

lincoln 110 vs 135
 

I’m fortunate enough to have good amount of experience with welding, and typically use a 500 lb monster of a Miller syncrowave 350 for most stuff. About a year ago I picked up a Lincoln 135 and cannot be happier with it.

The 135 runs happily on a dedicated 110 volt circuit, and is incredibly convenient for “sticking stuff together”. With a little practice, it is easy to turn out good looking welds. As compared to the Lincoln 110, it offers increased capacity (albeit not much more), some degree of adjustability as to wire speed and amperage, and comes with a regulator and gas conversion. Adding this to the 110 is a 100 dollar investment, which narrows the gap between the two drastically enough to make the jump up to the 135 a smart move. Based on my experience, going the flux core route is more work than it is worth, as wire is more expensive and the welds messier with tons of splatter. Going with a mixed gas setup, weld quality improves drastically, splatter decreases, and you can spend less time grinding and more time welding.

Flux core is a joke. If all you're welding is farm implements, then fine, but don't use it for any project whose appears you care about.

I just realized - I've had my Model 100 for over 10 years now!

Unless you happen to be welding outside on a windy day!