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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2
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New Targa top, now what?
Hi all. 81 SC with a brand spanking new (well, refurbished by Dan P) targa top. The top is beautiful, by the way. Dan does amazing work.
The very small rubber seals at the tip of each "triangular" side window (the ones at the top, which meet the left and right targa top side seals about 2 inches from the front of the top) are a bit wonky. These are the things that have a groove in them that the window, when fully up, kind of fits into. They're actually a bit "high" and are pressing into my new top side seals. I don't want to mess up my new top. What the hell are they called, so I can order some new ones and replace them? Has anyone had any experience doing this? Cheers, Mick |
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I'm not here.
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here it is, number 90.
They're removed by unscrewing the two top screws, then pulling out some of the felt seal along the side window. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/911M/POR_911M_BDYCON_pg3.htm#item8 ![]()
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"When do we say we can stop the Whole-Sale State-backed discrimination against straight white males? - island911 (This guy is insane, no?) |
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Kerrville, Texas
Posts: 1,021
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K Roman,
I've got a slightly different problem and since you solved his problem maybe you can help me with mine. The top side windows don't quite meet the seal on the top which results in a water leak at the end of the window. Any ideas to stop the leak would be appreciated. I also noticed that the edge of the top seems to sit a little high but it seems like the top is locking down with a lot of force now. Everyone says targas leak but mine only leaks on the drivers side.
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1987 911 Guards Red Targa, nearing 200,000 miles, lowered, 7's & 8's, 964 grind cams from John Dougherty, A.P.E. Mass Flow Sensor with chip to match, cat bypass, strut brace, dual out muffler. Will consider newer model in 8 years when I turn 75 and then maybe not. 2012 BMW 528i (wife's) 2007 Toyota FJ (rain and off road days) |
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If this is the place we post targa problems for the week, I have samll problem too. Let me first say, I don't know how to fix Mick's issue.
There are two metal prongs right and left that fit into the targa bar. I ordered the plastic sleves that go over them. I tried slipping them on, no go. I tried a little WD40 no go again. I have some synthetic grease that I am going to try to lubercate the prongs with and give this another shot. I have tried channel lock plyers to the neck base to shove it down, but did not want to damage the soft plastic. Is there a trick to this? I swear that if I had this kind of problem with condoms I would have a dozen kids by now.
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1977 911S Targa 2.7L (CIS) Silver/Black 2012 Infiniti G37X Coupe (AWD) 3.7L Black on Black 1989 modified Scat II HP Hovercraft George, Architect |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 758
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kach22i - Slipping the covers on is only a problem if you have an oversized shaft, and evidently this is only an issue with your targa top
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Manassas Va
Posts: 768
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Guys,
Kach22i, The plastic pin covers are a pain in the Ass to put one but not impossible. I used a hair dryer to warm them up and make them a little more pliable. Hot water would work too. The issue is that the pins have two groves (if I remember correctly) in them and the covers have two ribs on the inside that mate up to them. You have to get the ribs to pop over the first set and seat into both. I may have this reversed but the result is the same. Don't squeeze the sides of the plastic cover when you're grasping them to put them on the pins as this just locks them from going over the rib. Push them from more on the pointy end of the cover, with a small tap to pop them on. Hope this helps. Tom Ratza, on your issue I'm not sure exactly what you're saying as you could be describing two different things here but here goes. The side rubber seals on the targa top can be moved or position left and right to adjust up to the window. There should be three or four holes in the underside of the side seal strip that if you slide a philips screwdriver into you can loosen the whole seal and slide it up against the window and then re-tighten the screws. The second thing is I'm not clear on if your window is going up all the way to the top leaving a gap between the top of the window and the bottom of the seal. If the window isn't going up all the way there are window stops inside the door behind the panel that can be adjusted to correct this.
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Dan O 84' 3.2 Targa |
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Kerrville, Texas
Posts: 1,021
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I had no problem replacing mine. Guess I have an undersized shaft. You did take the old ones off I assume? Sorry just being a smart ass.
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1987 911 Guards Red Targa, nearing 200,000 miles, lowered, 7's & 8's, 964 grind cams from John Dougherty, A.P.E. Mass Flow Sensor with chip to match, cat bypass, strut brace, dual out muffler. Will consider newer model in 8 years when I turn 75 and then maybe not. 2012 BMW 528i (wife's) 2007 Toyota FJ (rain and off road days) |
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,942
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I see nobody is using the Search button?
The pins go on easy as you please. Use hairspray (old bike shop trick for rubber handlebar grips) so they will setup afterwards. Drill a 1/16" hole at the very end of the plastic tip. This lets the air out and lets the plastic tip slide on no problem. Additionally, use a socket that fits over the plastic but hits on the lower "brim" of the cap. Snap the socket into your screwdriver-style handle. Sequence: = Drill pin end = Find socket, snap it ontp handle, put pin into socket = Liberally spray hairspray on metal piece and immediately... = Push pin on with force Lining up the windows and preventing overheight when rolled up is all about pulling the door panel and having at the adjustment screws and bolts. For example, the (is it?) 12mm at the axis point of the regulator arms. The side of the door features an adjustment for angle. There is a limiting screw at the top of the door. This requires only that the upper door panel piece be removed. But it's a classic "while you're in there" situation. As long as you pull the panel, you can now remove the crusty grease that is overheating your power window motor or causing difficulty rolling up the window. Now you can get the door reinforcement kit in. Now you can lube the regulator/door tang/inner latch mechanism. Now you can lay a small amount of oil on the door bottom as rust protection and cap that one hole in the front, bottom that causes the wind noise as per Porsche bulletin. Gawd I could go on and on. I am such a bore! John
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'78 Targa in Minerva Blue |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Lawrenceville GA 30045
Posts: 7,377
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The hot water method is the way to go. BTDT. Warren suggested it to me when I posted on the pin installation problem a few years ago. Slipped on VERY easy, after sitting in near boiling water for a few minutes. No drilling of holes required.
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Mark '83 SC Targa - since 5/5/2001 '06 911 S Aerokit - from 5/2/2016 to 11/14/2018 '11 911 S w/PDK - from 7/2/2021 to ??? |
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Thank's for the tips, I will use the hot water method but keep the socket ready for that extra push if required.
Sorry for distracting from he main thread concept, next time I will do a search first.
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1977 911S Targa 2.7L (CIS) Silver/Black 2012 Infiniti G37X Coupe (AWD) 3.7L Black on Black 1989 modified Scat II HP Hovercraft George, Architect |
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Kerrville, Texas
Posts: 1,021
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J Bud, Thanks for the other tips. Looks like another weekend project lined up to keep me out of the house where my wife always has something for me to do.
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1987 911 Guards Red Targa, nearing 200,000 miles, lowered, 7's & 8's, 964 grind cams from John Dougherty, A.P.E. Mass Flow Sensor with chip to match, cat bypass, strut brace, dual out muffler. Will consider newer model in 8 years when I turn 75 and then maybe not. 2012 BMW 528i (wife's) 2007 Toyota FJ (rain and off road days) |
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2
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Thanks for the help. I've ordered the parts and look forward to doing a little (well, ok, very little) work on the car next weekend.
mick |
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