Removed my entire interior today!

[vanwyk4257]

I removed the remainder of my interior in my '72 coupe project today. I'm wondering what the best way to remove the glue that was used to attach the rear seat material to the metal is. I plan to do an RS carpet install and leave the rear seats out since I'm likely going to install a roll cage. Would acetone or some other solvent remove it or am I going to need to get out the DA sander?

[jpnovak]

Most solvents should dissolve the glue. Wear a respirator rated for organics. It will take a lot of solvent.

[vanwyk4257]

I figure it's going to take a lot of work. The good news is there's no rust back there so all I need to do is get all the glue off and prep it for paint. I'll probably try something besides acetone first the more I think about it since it will evaporate so quickly. I'm thinking perhaps laquer thinner? I could probably use the old gas I drained from the tank today, it smells like paint thinner!

[bob tilton]

i didn't bother with any chemical stripper for the factory glue. i took my interior down to metal with a wire wheel and angle grinder and recoated with hammerite.
finished RS interior for the 68L

[vanwyk4257]

Thanks for the tip and the link Bob, that is exactly the direction I want to go with my interior, that is very helpful!

[bob tilton]

if you use the angle grinder/wire wheel i would advise protecting the windows with a cloth or cardboard. otherwise all the sound deadening material kicked up from the grinder will pit the windows - ask me how i know. good luck!

[vanwyk4257]

I'll bite, how do you know?

I actually will be removing all the glass from mine since there's some body work to be done and then paint. I'm considering replacing the original quarter windows and rear window with 911R style plexi which should shave roughly 20-25lbs off the car by my calculation.

[Frostie]

Good luck Vanwyk. Like Bob I used a angle grinder with a wire wheel as well. It worked great

[bob tilton]

where are you going to purschase the R quarter windows from? i would like to eventually do this but the gt-racing windows are extremely expensive.

[vanwyk4257]

Bob, I'm probably going to purchase mine from GT-racing. I will probably go with the replica type without the open louvers and drip tray though. I think those ones go for around $250 rather than the close to $500 price tag for the original style. Where did you actually purchase your rear carpet kit from, it looks beautiful!

[bob tilton]

the ones that retain the original window frames? those are nice. i believe there is another company called spectr (sp) but i heard their customer service is lacking.
i bought my RS carpet kit from ofi. if i had t do it over again i would purchase from apbiz.

[Randy Webb]

Why do you want to remove the glue - it weighs nearly nothing.

BTW, acetone and most other chemicals will also be absorbed by your skin -- that's from the vapor in the air, not only from a liquid spill. I like grinders...

[rcwaldo]

When using a wire wheel, please wear safety glasses as the individual wires tend to fly outward when in use. Also, vacuum everywhere as these little wires tend to get stuck in your feet. Ask me how I know

Chris

[vanwyk4257]

Bob, I think both of the plastic quarter windows from GT-Racing can be glued in, but I'm not positive. I would actually like to eliminate the entire frame if possible due to weight. Thanks for the tip on the carpet Bob.

Randy, I bet if you took all the glue and weighed it it would add up to a few grams! Actually I just want to properly prep the area for some POR-15 or something like that to permanently stave off any rust issues.

rcwaldo, been there done that. I've actually been really fortunate as I've had one of those little buggers get me in the corner of the eye once, but it didn't get in my eye. Let's just say I've worn safety glasses or goggles ever since!

[bob tilton]

okay i've got the gt catalog with me and figure our host won't get upset since they don't sell this stuff.

pg 7 item 65 are the R repros, glue-in, no frame, 495.95
66, closed louvres, no drip, glue in 250.95
66f same as 66 but utilizes orig window frame
the other 2 windows are not the louvre style.

good tip on goggles. you will find the wires planted in your headliner as well. lots of very fine dirt gets everywhere that is sometimes only visible when viewing a digital pic using the flash.

some random pics:

[vanwyk4257]

I'm planning on using the closed louver glue in design. What did you use to coat the floor and back seat area. How did you apply it, i.e, spray, roll, brush? I actually peeled the headliner out of the car yesterday as well, so no worries about wires stuck in there. I just need to pull the back window out of the car to make it easier to get at some of that stuff in the back window without damaging the glass in case I reuse it. Thanks again for the tips and pics Bob!

[bob tilton]

have you ever seen someone kick the back window out of a 911. one guy gets in the rear seating area the other guy stands behind the car. the interior guy literally donkey kicks the window out and the other guy catches it - kinduv funny.
i used the hammerite rust encapsulator (less expensive than por15 and more available). applied it with one of those 5" sponge rollers and sponge brushes for the corners. i wanted it to have a nice even texture but this is when i thought i was going to use sound deadening material. i wanted to make the rgruppe meeting at EASY one weekend when i only had the hammerite down and it was just too damn noisey for a daily driver.
i alos took the time to paint all the misc int bit and pieces like the dash, e-brake lever, pedal cluster, etc. it's easy when oyu're in there and looks all around better when finished. it just doesn't seem right to have all new carpet and upholstery and not take care of those things.

[Jeff Alton]

DO NOT USE ACETONE in an enclsed space with any source of spark around-like a grinder. You are asking for a fire bomb!! Please only use one or the other.

Jeff

[vanwyk4257]

I'm a little nervous about taking out the back window, 32+year old glass! I figure I'll probably coat everything and perhaps just use a little dynamat in the rear deck and rear seat area. Mine will eventually be driven every nice day, no rain or nasty weather if I can help it. I'm also planning on putting a cage in my car, so I figured I might as well lose tha back seats since they would be completely wortheless with a cage in the car.

Jeff, acetone and sparks don't get along? LOL The consensus seems to be to use the wire wheel in a drill or grinder, so that's probably the route I'll be taking. I'm already sick of fumes anyway, after I got done with the interior I decided to pull the gas tank and being tired never thought about the fact that when I pulled the tank loose the contents would come out the fuel line fittings in the bottom of the tank. I grabbed a bucket full of bolts, dumped them on the driveway and stuck it under the car until I could lift the tank. I'm probaby going to put in a fuel cell anyway. The good news is that my garage no longer smells like old gas tonight and the only rust in the front pan (on top at least) is a 1"x3" section on the drivers side of the tank support.

[JCR]

Cut the rubber seal around the glass - carefully - with a sharp utility knife. The window will lift right out with minimal pressure. You don't want to re-use an old seal anyway - order a new one.

To remove glue, use a heat gun and metal scraper - works like a charm!