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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Orlando, FL.
Posts: 255
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Okay,
having gone through three (count 'em three) hurricanes in the last few weeks , it is now time to resume my project. I am trying to change a rear wheel bearing on my '77 911S,but cannot drive out the axle hub.The slide hammer broke, and the 3/4 " extension and socket (which fits inside the inner bearing sleeve like a piston) cannot drive it out. The hub still turns, but is rough and a little wobbly, but still in place .Remembering that I am laying on my back with a 4 lb hammer, how hard can I hit it without damaging things. And if that doesn't work, 1 WHY THE F*** NOT ?, and B What is the next step? remove the whole arm and take it to a shop? |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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pull the hub out with a pair of LONG prybars. one on each side with their tips against the head of a retainer plate bolt. a couple of good grunts and it falls on the floor. be careful so you don't pull the car sideways off the jack stands onto your body. see the pic on this thread:
How do I get my rear wheel hubs off
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 Last edited by john walker's workshop; 10-04-2004 at 12:02 PM.. |
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Clifton Park, NY
Posts: 409
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Breeang,
I bit the bullet and purchased the hub and bearing puller from out host. makes removal of the hub and bearing a real easy task. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_suspen_pg13.htm A |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,431
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i would be interested to see a picture of the actual hub puller part that goes under the hub flange. the baum tools kit i have is supposed to pull 911 hubs too, but the cage is too big to fit under the flange, and it has nothing to push against except the e/brake backing plate, which would be bent out of shape.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Orlando, FL.
Posts: 255
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Thanks for your input guys.I didn't realise there was a hub puller, did it do the job okay?. I f so I may as well bite the bullet as well and do the bearings on both sides both sides while I am off the road.This thing is so frustrating.
Is it possible that the pry bars would work if you can't drift the hub out?, maybe a groove in badly worn bearings or something causes it to drop back into the same position after each whack? |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wichita Falls, TX
Posts: 113
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John's prybar idea worked well for me on a stuck hub. Worst case - it is a low cost thing to try before buying the puller tool.
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Bart '72 targa 2.7 Last edited by dfw911; 10-04-2004 at 03:01 PM.. |
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There's a threa somewhere I created about changing that bearing. I too followed john's advise on the dual prybar set-up and it worked. Harbor Freight has the big basr for like $5 each. I think John's suggestion is to get two bars at 180 degrees and give it a couple of good oomphs.
John
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1985.5 944 GTS |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
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works all the time for me. like i said, good luck with the expensive "puller". it does R+R the bearings well.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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