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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodney Nelson View Post
Hi Dennis,

After you got it bead blasted do you need to primer in between when you are doing your metal work and when you are ready to send it to paint? I'm basically doing exactly what you are doing and live in Arizona so the environment is very dry and not prone to rust and I'm wondering if I can take a couple of months to do my repairs and body work after stripping and then send it to paint. Or do I have to worry about surface rust starting to form?

Thanks,

Rodney
The blaster would more or less agree with you, Alberta is also very dry so his experience is you have a few weeks or so to get it in primer safely, not sure about a couple of months.

I did all my "optional" body work prior to stripping and am now doing the remedial stuff necessary before paint. I suspect it will be in primer within a week.

Personally, just keep it dry and I would recommend e-coating parts as they are ready, so if the doors are good to go, get them in e-coat and move on to the next part. You can even do sections of the tub if you want, but you'd need to scuff sand wherever you overlap of course.

Dennis
Old 10-04-2017, 10:36 AM
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Hi Dennis, out of curiosity, who in Calgary did you use for blasting? I've heard people have had good luck going the DIY route at Consolidated Compressor. Currently weighing options to get my rusty tub to bare metal. Also, great to see you making progress again. This thread is awesome inspiration for my project.
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Old 11-01-2017, 06:01 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #222 (permalink)
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I did a plastic bead blast by a company just north of Calgary, but then again, I had no rust so I was just doing paint removal. They did a pretty good job and plastic beads will not deform or harden the metal, personally I would never do sand blasting as it is too harsh. I've been to Consolidated Compressor and they are a good place, but not the sand....I use their glass bead cabinet for small parts.

They are called Autobahn Auto Works and are up in Delacour....
Old 11-02-2017, 05:36 AM
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So, here we are, body in white.

What can't be seen is the Glasurit primer which is dark grey, the white being the DTM.

I had huge fights with the spray gun, everything from it just not putting out material to real wavy spray, so today I pick up my new SATA primering gun and hopefully that fixes it.

I must say that at $200 per litre, it is a little saddening to spray on just knowing most of it gets sanded off.

Front fenders, doors, front hood are yet to come...






More to come.../

Dennis
Old 11-02-2017, 05:45 AM
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Well, long journey, the car is now in the safe hands of the paint shop and they are busy making it beautiful...all ready for my return to finish and then I will be taking it to Europe with me.

Here are a few pics to keep the thread warm,



I also got my set of Fuchs (nice new Fuchsfelge), more on those later!

Dennis
Old 07-31-2019, 02:03 PM
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Oops...just saw there was a recent post...sorry.
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Old 08-06-2019, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by pavulon View Post
Oops...just saw there was a recent post...sorry.
No need to be sorry, but here it is with the start of the undercoat. It is tintable UPOL and even though I did not blast off much of the original undercoat, I wanted a colour matched, durable coating that will keep the car as rust free as possible as long as I live (which is 20 years or so I reckon).

Colour is a 2016 Audi colour...and yes, Dutch orange.




Dennis
Old 08-06-2019, 10:52 AM
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Unique!! Good on you for keeping the faith on your project!
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Old 08-06-2019, 10:59 AM
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Paint guy has been working hard....I now have a new Porsche hood to replace the PoS I had been working on for way too long...



I had repaired, leaded and worked on the blessed thing but just not happy with it. If anyone wants an OK long hood (or for that matter a perfect short hood), let me know. I now have one to get rid of!

Here is the rear seat area, as you can see I put the chip guard there as there will be the storage locker so wanted something a little more durable than paint. I might just leave it as is, but may also put some carpet or lining in it, particularly the very bottom/base



And here is the inside....starting to look like a real car again....can hardly wait to get back to it!




Dennis
Old 08-26-2019, 07:27 AM
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Well, things are progressing mightily....

...and I like it. The no drip rails look is just what I wanted....that and no sunroof...




Dennis
Old 08-30-2019, 02:08 PM
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Cool color, Dutch Orange, first I've seen it. Awesome!
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Old 08-30-2019, 04:41 PM
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Just spent the whole morning going over this thread, very cool project and what a journey it has been for your Dennis! Lots of ups and downs but once the body is finished and the paint is on, the rest of the assembly should be a much smoother process! ��
Old 09-03-2019, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by LukasM View Post
Just spent the whole morning going over this thread, very cool project and what a journey it has been for your Dennis! Lots of ups and downs but once the body is finished and the paint is on, the rest of the assembly should be a much smoother process! ��
Hey thanks for the comments, and yes, the fun part is in front of me when the whole thing comes together.

I literally have a stack of parts including a brand new 930 engine case, brand new crankshaft, Carillo rods, new Nikasil Mahle P/C's and the ITB set up.

Plus Elephant's ASP rear linkage, all their bushings, Tarrett anti-roll bars, new Recaro seats...boxes and boxes of the stuff.

It'll be like Christmas every day, plus I will be retiring at the end of this gig (likely late next year) and can spend full time on this every day!

Thanks!

Dennis
Old 09-03-2019, 06:13 AM
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Old 10-15-2019, 01:12 PM
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Ok, a question about electrical plugs and terminals before I get heavily into the next major task which is rewiring.

I have two complete wiring looms, one from this chassis ('89) and one from a '79 SC. I am planning on stripping the '89 loom, removing the wiring I don't need and adding wiring for a number of items including the Motec fuel injection, rear window wiper, rear fog light, Euro side markers and a number of other items.

I am also going to put in single plugs for every instrument as the rube goldberg style myriad of single spade connectors drives me crazy.

Question is, what kind of plug system is best? Porsche uses a variety of types of plugs and connectors, I will probably keep a lot of them, but for ones that I have to upgrade anyway, what connector system would work the best.

I am leaning towards Deutsch connectors as they are weatherproof, look pretty easy to reliably put together and not too expensive. I'll probably just buy a bunch of connectors....say 50 of various numbers of contacts and just use them all in the most critical places and then leave the rest as per stock.

Any suggestions/experiences from others in this kind of thing?

I also am taking a page out of the Project Binky world and stripping the black tape wrap off of the harness on the interior of the car, using wire wraps on short intervals to keep the harnesses together, but was wondering what protection I ought to use for the harness on some critical spots such as engine bay or the harness that threads over the rear torsion tube, past the transmission and into the engine compartment.

Ideally it would be some sort of sheet product I could wrap the finished harness with, as opposed to a tube product where I would need to pull it through. The nylon braid stuff looks nice, but it is definitely not water proof and so I don't want to do that.

Any feedback would be nice....car is now completely back in my garage awaiting my return....still keeping to the plan on finishing the gig hear next year, pull the car together and then off to NL for retirement!

Thanks all!

Dennis
Old 11-09-2019, 10:32 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #235 (permalink)
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My personal experience in my Electromotive tec3r engine management system is that Deutsch type connectors are too tiny and fiddly and a real pain when you have a connection issue. The little legs on the female side are so fragile and tiny that my older eyes can’t see them to straighten them out without excellent lighting, a magnifying glass and a griffin sewing pin.
I would stick with something that has larger pins and readily available because chances are that you will want to add/replace several more throughout the car.
Cheers,
Johan
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Last edited by Uwon; 11-10-2019 at 06:20 AM..
Old 11-10-2019, 05:47 AM
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thought I was going to read about a gearbox installation. but this is very timely. just finished blasting my tub mostly to metal. did not try to get the rubbery stuff off the wheel wells and engine bay, nor the undercoating.

will need to read your thread again when I have more time. looks like it will help me with my decisions on the next steps.

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Old 11-10-2019, 06:05 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #237 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uwon View Post
My personal experience in my Electromotive tec3r engine management system is that Deutsch type connectors are too tiny and fiddly and a real pain when you have a connection issue. The little legs on the female side are so fragile and tiny that my older eyes canít see them to straighten them out without excellent lighting, a magnifying glass and a griffin sewing pin.
I would stick with something that has larger pins and readily available because chances are that you will want to add/replace several more throughout the car.
Cheers,
Johan
Great feedback and thanks....any particular recommendation? I like the round connectors that are used for the mirrors....have no idea what brand they are or where to get new pins/sockets, I can scavenge some from my spare harnesses, but need pins...

Dennis
Old 11-11-2019, 08:15 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #238 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by 911tracker85 View Post
thought I was going to read about a gearbox installation. but this is very timely. just finished blasting my tub mostly to metal. did not try to get the rubbery stuff off the wheel wells and engine bay, nor the undercoating.

will need to read your thread again when I have more time. looks like it will help me with my decisions on the next steps.

Ask away on questions, looks like we have been going down some similar paths...and no, I did not blast the undercoating from the car, I told the blaster just to remove the blue paint (car was originally blue) and then I put UPol Raptor on the underside (colour tinted) and Gravitex for the visible parts.

Dennis

PS - love the rotisserie, if I could do it again I would use one rather than my stand....
Old 11-11-2019, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Iciclehead View Post
Great feedback and thanks....any particular recommendation? I like the round connectors that are used for the mirrors....have no idea what brand they are or where to get new pins/sockets, I can scavenge some from my spare harnesses, but need pins...

Dennis
MOLEX pins and connector bodies are a robust design.

AMPHENOL is like military grade and the best product line IMO
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Old 11-11-2019, 08:34 AM
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