I will let you know after Sunday, I just scraped rotor contacts clean this morning and it's already running much better.

Kach22i,
I have a 77 3.0 euro, and in the course of tune up, replaced the rotor cap, and points.
The rotor was the revlimiting, and it WORKS.....
It's a cheap and easy way to limit rpm's with no electronic or fuel involvement.
Shorty after I installed the points, they wore the rub block enough to close, and I experienced the Tach needle bounce and drop and a fuel stravation....when the points would try to work then I got backfires....big time.
A simple adjustment and cleaning of the points worked again.
With my goal to eliminate those kind of future problems, I replaced the points with Petronix the next time I had the problem...
So far no more problems, and power comes on like it should.
If by chance i push it to 7,000 the rotor shuts er down....it works great

That is great news. I tend to worry about all these non-original parts working together, kind of like my computer with new software or hardware in the link sometimes it's havoc.

I paid 30 mins labor to my mechanic to put in a petronics set about 3 years ago. My '77 911s has run flawlessly ever since.(except for rear wheel bearing problems)

Rear wheel bearing? When it's cold out no problem- peace and quiet. When it's hot out or after hard driving the passenger side rear goes .............Waaahhhhheeeeeooooooowwwwwwaaahhhhhhh heooooo.

Is there a cheep fix or do you just replace the complete axle assembly which includes boot, CV joints and bearings for $500 each side (parts only)?

kach,

Here is what all 2.7 rotors are supposed to look like ... if your car has the correct distributor in it:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...just_pic16.jpg

The CIS 2.7 distributors all have the same specs as a 2.4T distributor, so I suggest reading the following thread, which has all of the pertinent factory data for your distributor:


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5432&highlight=distribu tor+lube

My suggestion is to forget throwing money at a wrench that actually knows very little about maintaining YOUR car ... get a timing light with inductive pickup and advance readout capability. Pull your distributor with engine at TDC #1, and partially disassemble, clean and check for wear on the bushings, etc. After cleaning and lubing, check the advance curve per the factory documentation.