|
|
|
|
| Author |
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 310
|
Rebuilding Brake Calipers
Hi
Has anyone got any torque figures for rebuillding brake calipers, also a spec for the screws, Is it necesarry to use the OEM ones? (expensive at average of $6 each for screws) or can you use a generic replacement Any help appreciated Neven |
||
10-06-2004, 08:52 PM
|
|
|
Somewhere in the Midwest
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: In the barn!
Posts: 12,499
|
Are you considering splitting the calipers? Don't...you don't need to. If the seam is leaking, buy rebuilt ones and send those back to a pro..it's easier that way...someone posted on one of my threads where you can exchange the calipers for 62 bucks each...
Last edited by MotoSook; 10-06-2004 at 10:04 PM.. |
||
|
10-06-2004, 09:56 PM
|
|
|
Somewhere in the Midwest
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: In the barn!
Posts: 12,499
|
Quote:
|
||
|
10-06-2004, 10:00 PM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 310
|
Hi
They have been rebuilt but the screws have been plated (hence a chance of hydrogen embrittlement) and I'm not happy with this so I'm replacing them Neven |
||
|
10-06-2004, 10:12 PM
|
|
|
Somewhere in the Midwest
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: In the barn!
Posts: 12,499
|
Plated? How? Hydrogen embrittlement is is concern with improper metallic plating right? I'm familiar with hydrogen embrittlemetn w/r to cadmium plating/coating.
|
||
|
10-06-2004, 10:20 PM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 310
|
Souk
Not cadmium just zinc with gold passivation, Hydrogen embrittlement is a problem with plating all high tensile items, partularly cap screws (Tho I'm now told you should not do high tensile bolts either) evidently there is a process (cooking) the blots immediately they come out of the bath (prob to drive off the hydrogen) that eliminates it but this was not done. Neven |
||
|
10-06-2004, 10:26 PM
|
|
|
|
Somewhere in the Midwest
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: In the barn!
Posts: 12,499
|
Interesting...
As I understand it, a long baking (~24 hrs) is the key to prevent H-embrittlement. Most shops/suppliers rush it...them they pay for it later. I've had bolts snap as soon as the techs turn their back after install. Unless the calipers were disassembled for plating, the head of the screws/bolts should be the only areas right? If that is the case, I wouldn't worry so much about it. And if you not the case, buy used calipers and rebuilt them yourself. Are we talking about the case steel calipers (A's and M's)? |
||
|
10-06-2004, 10:34 PM
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: West of Seattle
Posts: 4,718
|
On the off-change you're curious, I concur with everything Souk has said so far. If you're thinking about taking apart the calipers, please recognize that you'll spend more time and money than you would just buying freshly rebuilt ones.
Dan
__________________
'86 911 (RIP March '05) '17 Subaru CrossTrek '99 911 (Adopt an unloved 996 from your local shelter today!) |
||
|
10-07-2004, 05:52 AM
|
|
