Engineering Drawings

[abisel]

How can I obtain a complete set of blueprints for the 1973 911 body?

The workshop manual contains some drawings, but I need more detail for my project.

[billwagnon]

here's all I've got -

[billwagnon]

here's all I've got -




full size - http://www.wagnonweb.com/pictures/porsche_line.jpg

[project935]

I've got some critical chassis dimensions for a '72 - suspension pick-up points mostly. Let me know if you're interested and I'll send you a scan.

[jluetjen]

They're in the factory shop manual.

[Britain Smith]

I am interested if you make a scan.

-Britain

[304065]

Where in the factory shop manual?

[Yellowbird RS]

ok I have this one but can't copy only this page tell me if is what you are looking for and I print and scan just this page.

[Yellowbird RS]

A better one:

[Jim Sims]

Engineering drawings are valuable documents which cost a great deal to produce. Recall that Porsche also provides engineering and design services to outside firms for serious fees. I seriously doubt you will be able to legally obtain real Porsche engineering and manufacturing drawings even of a 1973 911. I find it unlikey such propiertary information would be released. Hope you find something. Jim

[abisel]

To everybody,

Thanks for your replies.

I have the workshop manuals and the drawings for the '72 just like posted above. However, they don't contain enough information like the drawings for the early SWB cars do.

In my restoration, I need similar dimensions for the '72 that are given for the SWB cars.

Cheers,

[jluetjen]

What dimensions specifically do you need?

[abisel]

Well, specifically, I need: Door opening front to rear, sill to roof; distance between longitudinals at forward and aft edge of the door opening; distance from horizontal and vertical Plan 0 to the top forward edge of the rear inner quarter panel; distance between top forward edge of both inner quarter panels; etc.

Basiclly, all those shop manual dimensions listed for the earlier SWB cars. Can I assume these dimensions are the same for the '73?

Even though I have the car on a Celette jig, I still need a lot of check dimensions to make sure the panels get fitted properly. Trial fit-up looks good, but I just want to make sure with some actual measurements.

I am replacing everything from the door hinge line back, including the floor pan.

See this posting for pics of the car on the jig.

FS: '73 911 Floor Pan Section

[kycarguy 935]

The is a body dimension guide that has all the dimensions for frame work and checking on the Celette jig. I have one somewhere if I can find it. Let me see if I can find it to help you out.

[jluetjen]

The shop manual drawings have that information. The doors are the same between SWB and the later cars. The big difference between the SWB and the LWB ( excluding the short hood cars for the time being) was the rear wheel wells and then with the '70 models the upper front strut mounts. The rest of of the dimensions should be the same unless they specifiy that they are different.

When you read the drawings in the shop manuals, you have to remember that they are maintained like the rev controlled documents that they are. So the initial set of drawings were released. Then they released updates which only selectively replace the early information when there were changes. As a result the specs for something consistent across all models (like setting valve lash) would only be listed in the original 2.0 version of the manual and not repeated in the later models since it would be the same.

The same applies to the body drawings. They released the later LWB drawings but didn't update or replace the interior drawings since they did not change. The same applies to the measurements for the doors. So you should have both the SWB and LWB drawings for reference. If it is not specifically called out on the LWB drawings, it will be the same as you find on the SWB drawings.

[abisel]

Ah. Just as I thought. Don't indicate change where there isn't any.

I use the same principal at work. The initial release document is only reved when something inside changes, and then, you only highlight the change, not the entire document.

kycarguy, if you find something, let me know.

Thanks for your help.

[Zeke]

As a carpenter, I hang doors occasionally. (Probably a couple thousand by now ) While some set the door jamb and then hang the door, most of us leave the jamb loose and use the door itself once it's swung on hinges to read the jamb.

This is not only faster, but better. No one I know can consistantly set jambs perfectly so the doors to be swung need no planing. Why won't this work with a car? I seem to recall that the doors on a 911 are very consistant in size. So much so, the they can be swaped from car to car. I've had no problem.

Damon (Series900) would know better than I, but there seems to be a sequence to aligning the bodywork. I have been working from the rear to the front with the doors the first thing to be bolted on the tub.

[Series900]

The doors are consistent, the cars pretty damn close. Compared to other marques of the day, the 911 was/is a tight ship. Cars today,all of em, very tight dimensionally. Because of the fixed welded quarter, one aligns the door to the rear edge, and to rocker, adjust front fender to door, fender to hood, bumper to hood, and round and round we go.
The Celette jigs locate and maintain critical suspension points,this gives the body a "loaded " flex, as compared to pinch weld clamps on other frame machines. Try clamping a Targa, Flex? Once jigged a datum line can be used off the bench, from there you can transfer up to tram off, let say, roof height and center points, down to door pillars , A or B. As discussed all the interior measurements are in the Factory manuals.
If the rear of the car was bent, you start jigging from the front, as the car straightens, not by itself ! , all criticals are bolted, and the front end sheetmetal should line up with out any difficulty, and the rear should be fit to the front, this is work. This is also why cars get totaled. A 2004 anything, worth 100K before collision, will justify 50K in repairs. Same damage/work on a lesser value car gets totalled, not that the work is any different, just no finished value in the latter. Skill , talent and art, reap an inner reward. The restoration efforts that enthusiast's pursue are akin to mountain climbing. Abisel is one of them.
With the the car jig'd, square can be achieved, it will still take skill, time, and persistence. Sometimes good enough" is" , on a finished Porsche its not in the long run, make sure everthing is where you want it.There is only so much adjustment to, uhhm, window frames, let say, before you will realize something else is way off. Really look at the front hinge pillar, once you commit, to the door set and bolted, the rocker and quarter are welded, no going back.

I do not build houses, sell insurance, or fill in the blank for a reason!

[abisel]

Besides the drawings in the shop manuals, of which discussed here have all the dimensions I need, I have located a couple cars that I can take actual measurements from. This should give me all the info I need.

For the fit-up of all the panels in my restoration, the torsion bar tube, left and right longitudinal side members, inner quarter panels, outer quarter panels, rear shock cross brace, and engine mounting components all are dead nuts on the mark according to the Celette jig. Nothing at the rear of the car from the lock pillar (B-pillar) aft moves once everything is attached to the Celette bench.

A proplem I am having is the hook-up of front bumper mounts to Celette bench . The jigs I got from Celette will fit '74 and later cars, but not the '73. Even though the installation sheet calls out the fixtures (551.702 and 551.703) to fit the '73, they won't. It looks like I will have to fabricate something to secure the very front of the tub to the Celette bench. Once this is secure, the inner and outer rocker panels will fit-up and the door hinge line will be perpendicular to the horizontal datum. Thus making the doors fit like they should. Then I can line up the floor pan and get to doing some welding.