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Rebuild or replace
Ok, I’m still new here. I have done some checking on past post but I’m still confused? I have a 1976 911S with a 2.7 Leaks oil everywhere. Should I rebuild and keep original or swap with 3.2 or bigger? And if I swap what should I go with. And how much am I looking to spend? Car used for just street FUN. Not intending to race it.
Thanks To All Who Post SmileWavy |
I think you'll spend far more rebuilding the 2.7 correctly than you would by installing a 3.0 or 3.2.
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Vehicle condition?
You doing it yourself or paying someone? (see Ricks comment above) Budget conscious or not? Keeping it forever or selling in the future? Porsche purist or WTF lets go fast? |
Excellent condition. Would like to do it myself. Keeping it. Go fast!!!
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A 2.7 can be done cost effectively if you do it yourself. Maybe $2,500? I just did mine for less than that. Someone else want to chime in on $$'s?
You can't do a good 3.2 less than $6500 can you? |
Leaks are one thing, bad pistons and cylinders another. I would first do a leakdown and compression test to get an idea of the health of the engine. Have you also tracked down where the leaks are coming from? Most popular are oil return tubes, oil breather housing gasket and oil thermostat o-ring. All easy and cheap fixes.
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The engine is original. I think. Car has 127K on odom. Replaced the oil tubes. Leaks seam to be coming from head gaskets.
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127,000 miles on a 2.7? Yeah probably time for a rebuild. You will need head work, case work and who knows about the P&C's. I know PBH said he did his rebuild for less than $2,500, but I sure don't know how he managed to do so. On the other hand you aren't getting into a 3.0 in good condition for less than $4,000 and a 3.2 for less than $5,000.
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If you buy a used 3.2, you will have that cost plus who is to say that this used engine will not need an o'haul soon. Seems like in the end a rebuild would be cheaper.
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I paid about $1,000 for head work and (ahem) 'honing' and rings on my alusils. Add about $500-$1000 for seals, bolts etc. I did not replace bearings or align bore.
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torque up all the head nuts to 23#. a huge amount of 2.7s are running around with very loose heads and leaking like a seive. you may gain some time if all of the nuts torque without pulling a stud out of the case. there is already plenty of wear on the head/cylinder/case mating surfaces from running loose, but they tend to leak a lot less if the head nuts are tight.
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Agree with John above. Also, don't forget the 2.7 had valve seats for LEADED gas...if you rebuild, replace valves and seats
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