single stage vs two stage paint

[Argeo]

I am trying to bring my car back to it original glory. Well kind of, instead of doing artic silver I want to do continental orange. Anyways, I am going not metallic and am wondering if single stage would work. The guy at the paint shop said a lot of guys use it for older cars since it more age appropriate in some cases. Anyways, since my car is a 77 I am thinking this might be a better choice. Any reason not to? Any pictures of single step paint out there. I just picture it being less glossy but really not sure.

Any suggestions?

David

[RoninLB]

it's not as durable of 2 part paints.. spilled gas, bird $hit, etc. Single stage is also more sensitive to washing with a routine towel that slowly kills the shine. I use a chamois to wash and another to dry to prevent that from happening. An epoxy primer is nice also.

do a search for some real good info

[Rot 911]

I have had very good luck with single stage. Shine is every bit as good as two-stage. No problems with durability either. For comparison, the ducktail in this picture I did with two-stage and the bumper with single stage. By the way got a better color match with the single stage.

[widebody911]

Originally posted by Argeo
The guy at the paint shop said a lot of guys use it for older cars since it more age appropriate in some cases.

"Age appropriate" = "cheaper"

I used single stage on my car, knowing it was going to get chipped up on the track. It's easier to repair, but doesn't have nearly the visual impact.

[mb911]

two-stage gets by vote just use high quality. I find it blends easier and looks deeper in the long run and my car is black so I might be bias IMHO

[real car guy]

I do not like "two stage" (base coat/clear coat) for anything. Here in AZ, the clear gets burned up fairly quickly. I like the single stage Omni paint made by PPG. This is a great product that is very durable, and easy to work with. I have used it on several jobs and have been very pleased with it.

[fuelie600]

Many people get confused when they hear single stage paint. Single stage urethane is a "two-stage" paint. It is like basecoat and clearcoat in one stage. It is acrylic urethane just like base/clear, not acrylic enamel or lacquer.

Like people above said, chip repair would be easlier with SS. BC/CC has advantages in run/dust removal after painting (especially with metalic paint.)

If you are using PPG deltron, the gloss is very close between DCC SS and DBU/DCU base-clear. Many pros think base-clear is more forgiving for home painters.

[Argeo]

I am shocked by the prices on all the materials. Just the paint, primers, hardeners, reducer and clear add up to about $750. That is all top of the line 2 stage with a primer that etches and a primer that goes over that.

Unless anymore surprises pop up, this whole endevor should run me about $1,800. I suppose good for what I am getting but still alot considering I am doing 95% of the work myself.

Does $50 sound high for a 3 X 4 piece of 18 guage sheet metal?

David

[mb911]

I have used omni and it is good and very cheap but talk to professional shops and the paint manufacturers and they will all agree that 2 stage is the better withstanding paint. Major draw back is that if its scratch's clear will have a white look to it versus a solid single stage.

Two step is easier as well to spray as you are not putting the volume on at one time and it seems to cure easier(no sagers)

IMHO

[mb911]

That price sounds pretty fair for the metal. I found better paint job ends up better with better material I used omni, then ppgs high line then duponts high line. Hands down dupont is the way to go. I paid 200 for a gallon of appearance clear with all reducers and activators, then about 200 for a gallon of uro dupont primer(works as sealer as well and its buildable sandable) then about 90 bucks for a gallong of dupont base. Sand paper is a different story

[Argeo]

I guess I will be using Chromobase. That's what my friend sprays in his shop. It went anywhere from $50 - 130 a quart. The self etching primer is $132 per gallon, hardener and clear combined were $100, reducer was $43 for a gallon, regular primer for over the self etching is $57 a gallon and the primer activator was $35.

How many quarts or gallons will I need of everything. I am doing everything but the floors and inside engine and hood compartments. How many quarts in a gallon. Sorry it has been a while since junior high.

How much of each product do you think I will need?

I think the cost just extended my project out until May 2005 vs May 2004.

David

[widebody911]

Quantity depends on several factors, the first of which is color; it takes more paint to hide a dark color with a lighter than the other way 'round.

I bought one gallon of color (PPG CLV) which is mixed (IIRC) 2:1 with the hardener. I have maybe a pint left after subsequently painting my new fg hood, bumper and mirrors. I was painting the same color, but with a thin layer of light-colored finishing primer in between.

[Argeo]

That seems like a lot of paint for what you did. I was told by the paint guys as probably 3 quarts paint which is added to reducer on a 1 to 1ratio making 6 quarts of spray all together.

The color is orange going on primer which I guess is can be bought with different shades (light to dark).

David

[widebody911]

Better to have some extra sitting on the shelf for a rainy day than to be sitting there with an empty paint gun cussing at the car.

Another data point - mine is a cab, so I didn't have a roof to paint!

[Argeo]

Two good points.

Thanks Tom.

[mb911]

Chromabase is a dupont product good choice. You can save a little on primers if you use there URO buildable sandable as it works for bare metal etch/ buildable/sealer. That way only 1 gallon of primer. I would say 2 quarts of base if doing jams etc and 2 quarts of clear (3-4 coats) I am not real familer with the lower chromasystem clear but the appearance clear(high end) lays like glass. I also use a SATA gun and that may help??

Good luck

[Argeo]

Thanks Ben.

So this primer replaces using two seperate ones? How much does one gallon cost and where do you get it?

Thanks,

David

[john70t]

Not an auto painter, butI think the 2-stage is prefered for show-cars because there is two layers of light reflection which tricks the eyes into giving the paint "depth" without a pinpointed surface.
I think the "depth" effect can be recreated with using a color slightly inbetween the primarys(i.e a purpleish blue or a purpleish red) and a good coat of wax.

Using a single-stage and sucessfully putting 5-7 run-free coats should let you color-sand all day on the flat sections regardless of the damage, and a clean and heavily waxed surface will give it enough sparkle for the bling effect.
Some paints do shrink though, and a thick layer may be inclined to have problems, experience counts.