valves noisy when cold

SLO-BOB · 10-24-2004, 03:33 PM

I did a search, but couldn't come up with answers to my particular question. There is a loud ticking noise when I start the car that I imagine to be the valves. It's definitely coming from the left side engine compartment. It gets quieter as it warms up, but doesn't go away completely. It didn't do it at all during the summer, but now that it's a lot cooler out it does. Related? The motor has about 5k on a rebuild. Tia.

Dennis Kalma · Dennis Kalma's Garage

I have had similar noises and similar worries. A couple of things.....

1. Seems like it takes a while for for an air cooled engine to get totally up to operating temperature, but when it gets there, seems like a lot of things operate better, quieter and smoother. It has gotten to the point that I am neurotic about warming things up before I really use the engine...

2. A PCA member here had a similar noise on his Ruf, did a complete teardown (or two if memory serves) finally found that the intermediate shaft end play was a bit high..absolutely no risk to the engine, just a clattering noise until it warms up.

Lastly, I assume you have carefully checked the valve clearances...they can get noisey..

Dennis

SLO-BOB · 10-24-2004, 04:47 PM

No Dennis, I haven't checked the valves yet. I'm doing a road trip next week and didn't want to get into something that would perhaps prevent me from going. It's not so loud that I'm super worried, but now that you mention it, is there a risk to the motor with the valves being out of adjustment?-within reason of course.

1fastredsc · 10-24-2004, 05:12 PM

A quick valve adjustement is easy, cheap, and will give you peice of mind. Your actually supposed to do an adjustment 1k miles after the rebuild. Then every other oil change after than. Your rebuild might have worn in the valvetrain a little, and now the gap measured between the lifter and valve at rest has increased. If you have to do an oil change fairly soon, wouldn't hurt to drop the valve covers and take a peak at the clearences, it's easy enough to do.

cgarr · cgarr's Garage

I have had pistons make a lot of noise, Especially the J&E's did you break it in nice and slow?

craig

89turbocabmike · 10-24-2004, 05:17 PM

Yup, just did mine. It's the valves. I recently put in new SC cams and reground rocker arms. Now I'm set for 15K

SLO-BOB · 10-25-2004, 04:02 AM

I bought the car after the engine was rebuilt. Hopefully the p.o. was up on break in procedure.

I will do the valves myself very soon. It's coming up on an oil change and I have purchased all the items needed for the adjustment, i.e. adjustment tool, blades, gaskets. I also plan on draining ALL the fluids and going to Swepco and Mobile 1 which I have already purchased.

My biggest question at this point- Do you think it's okay to drive the car the way it is? I'm doing that road trip in a couple of days and there's no way I'll have time to do the adjustment. Like I said-once it warms up it's not very loud at all. It's just on cold start that it is very noticeable. My wife sees the smoke and hears the clicking and she's ready to call the tow truck

.

jbrinkley · 10-25-2004, 04:22 AM

I bought my car 6k miles after top rebuild, don't mean to scare you but..... smoke and ticking is what lead me to look at the valves. I found a shaft walking out. Almost all the way out. There's apic in the rebuild forum somewhere. I would advise, in my infinite wisdom (very little), to at least take a look. And for those who would ask, very reputable shop rebuild, guides, rings and raceware studs. The ****ty thing now is that I take the covers off and look at them all the time, I think I'm paranoid. Like someone said above, checking them will greatly ease your mind

89turbocabmike · 10-25-2004, 09:42 AM

How long a road trip Jerry? If it went away completely when warm then I wouldn't worry about it. I think however that if it's loud enough to scare the wife then perhaps there is some concern

Usually if a rocker shaft starts walking you start seeing oil drips from the backside of the rocker housing. I recently did my valve job without draining the oil as an experiment. A 911 racer friend mentioned they drop the lower valve covers one at a time by jack the car up one side at a time so oil drains to the other side. This also give you the required work room. Works great, not any more mess than normal.

SLO-BOB · 10-25-2004, 11:47 AM

I'm heading down to Arkansas-about 700 miles. Once there I'm doing a "tour" with some BMW guys-about 20 this year. More like a race on the road, but it's pretty remote. Alright-it's still not smart but.....Anyway, I talked to a local P-mechanic that knows the car. He suspects exhaust studs. His reasoning is that the valves won't quiet down after warm up the way mine does. So, I'll get under the car and start there because it's easiest. If that works-great! If not, on to the valve adjustment tomorrow.-Bob

SLO-BOB · 10-25-2004, 02:49 PM

Well the pro was right AND wrong. The nuts were loose and one stud went missing. I tightened and replaced as needed and......still ticks. And it's loud. I guess tomorrow is valve adjustment and inspection time. I'm draining the fluids tonight.

jbrinkley · 10-25-2004, 03:40 PM

I hope you dont find anything wrong down there. And it's true you can do one side at a time without draining the oil.

SLO-BOB · 10-25-2004, 05:25 PM

Well, the initial news is good-no metal stuff on the tranny drain plug. As a matter of fact it looks clean as a whistle. That is a relief. Everything is draining as I type into my kids old plastic sled

. That's a LOT of oil! Tomorrow, when it's stone cold I adjust the valves.

Gunter · Gunter's Garage

What type engine set-up? If it has an A/C compressor, the extra fan blower and the CAT, the valves are not easily accessed. Remove the ignition wire from the coil to the distributor to be safe. Start with the rotor pointing to the notch in the distributor housing (Z1 TDC) It's easier with the plugs out by I manage to turn the engine by squeezing the fan belt and use a 1/2 inch drive socket on the fan nut. If you have trouble getting the blade under the "elephant foot", back off the adjustment screw, put the blade under and snug the screw onto it. Remember to clean the housing and covers before installing the new gaskets. I put the new gasket on the housing over the studs and use antiseize on the gasket before I put the cover on. That way I can re-use the same gasket several times. Each time the covers come off without tearing the gaskets and I don't have to clean anything. Usually there is less noise when cold because the oil is thick, a little more valve-ticking when hot. Good luck.

SLO-BOB · 11-03-2004, 03:14 PM

As it turns out, it was exhaust manifold gaskets. I replaced 1, 2, and 3 and all is quiet (within reason) once again.

I did adjust the valves. It's not much fun, but very doable. They all were pretty much up to specs anyway. I'll chalk it up as a valuable learning experience.