Muther Fletcher Tranny Drain Plug!!!!!

Moke81 · 11-03-2004, 02:55 PM

What a pain in the butt! why is it in there so frikken tight? I used impact on it I took a chisel to it, it will not budge. Do I have to drill it out? I know that hex nut is magnitized will shrapnel go in the case? what have you guys done to get it out?

Thank you
Moke81
1981SC

turbo6bar · 11-03-2004, 03:07 PM

Have you tried heating the case around the drain plug with a propane torch?
Jurgen

Moke81 · 11-03-2004, 03:16 PM

No I have not, I will try that next. Where do I get one of those torches?

turbo6bar · 11-03-2004, 03:24 PM

Home Depot, Lowe's, or even a discount store will have a plain jane torch and bottle setup in the plumbing or hardware section. Take your time.

Randy Webb · 11-03-2004, 03:31 PM

Do a search for the numerous ideas on how to get these things out. ALso a current thread on Rennlist.

I read the header several times before I realized it did NOT say "Fltcher-Munson".... guess my hearing is going & so it cognitive ability.

Drago · Drago's Garage

PB Blaster (or other equivalent material), a good torch, a 2 foot breaker bar (or longer) and a lot of patience.

*Caution: PB Blaster is flamable*

Moke81 · 11-03-2004, 04:21 PM

I don't think the breaker bar will work now since it's pretty much rounded from the impact gun and chewed up from the chisel. I will try heat next
Sorry for the stupid question, what is a PB Blaster?

Randy Webb · 11-03-2004, 04:50 PM

a penetrating oil -- tied with Kroil as the people's choice.

scottb · 11-03-2004, 04:58 PM

Once the plug gets buggered up so that a wrench will no longer work, some people have taken their cars to a welding or muffler shop and had a large nut welded on to the plug. Then, heat is applied and a long breaker bar is used to loosen the plug.

Once you get the plug out, replace it with an "outtie" rather than an "innie." I think our host sells "outties."

Jim Smolka · 11-03-2004, 05:11 PM

IMHO, it is best to start with a quality 17mm hex. Snap On sells a really short 17mm hex (~$20) tool that works with a 3/8" wrench. Then a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter is used.

Wil Ferch · 11-04-2004, 05:01 AM

Someone please tell me there is an "outie" tapered-thread plug available....I posted on this before and our host, nor the Porsche dealer ( even if catalogued as available for an earlier car that uses these)....don't have them . I "automatically" receive the superceded newer...."innie"...part. Happened twice already from a dealer order.

Please confirm......I can't stand "teaser" posts like this and then come to find its "wrong"....

Wil

NoLift911 · 11-04-2004, 06:53 AM

BTDT - MAPP Gas is your friend - heat the case not the plug itself.

Buy a 17mm Hex from Sears, whack off a good inch and a half and take a socket with a breaker bar to it. It will come out.

For installation don't put in in so tight - I only tighten mine until it does not leak - which is not much. The stupid PO put it in so tight....(oops I am the PO). Learned my lesson.

Wil - no outties available. I tracked down a company that was going to make me up a batch. Batch to them was 100 plugs

Need to dig that up...maybe there is a market?

-Jeff
nolift911@hotmail.com

scottb · 11-04-2004, 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by nolift911
Wil - no outties available.

My bad! I was under the impression they were available. I'm sorry to have gotten hopes up.

zotman72 · 11-04-2004, 07:26 AM

Valve grinding compound liberally in the innie, help me get traction with my hex wrench. YMMV

competentone · 11-04-2004, 07:33 AM

I don't know if this could be applied to a trans. plug, but I've found a "trick" from years working on corroded plumbing pipes -- I call it my "heat and cool three times rule."

I heat the corroded fitting with a propane torch; let it cool back down naturally to room temperature or just a little warm (sometimes I help it cool faster with a wet rag). I heat it a second time; let it cool again, then heat it a third time; let it cool.

Finally I heat it a forth time and apply force to remove while its still hot.

In applying the torque to unthread the stuck fitting, I find applying a sharp "jerk" motion works better than any gradual build-up of force (makes sense from a physics perspective).

I suspect the heating and cooling translates into expansion and contraction forces that help to break the corrosion bond. I’ve found it to be very effective. And I’ve found, less than three cycles of heating and cooling usually won’t work.

To prevent corrosion on re-assembly I use a thick layer of Teflon tape. The "pink" tape -- made mostly for gas lines -- is thicker than the more common white tape.

competentone · 11-04-2004, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by scottb
Once the plug gets buggered up so that a wrench will no longer work, some people have taken their cars to a welding or muffler shop and had a large nut welded on to the plug. Then, heat is applied and a long breaker bar is used to loosen the plug.

Not from working on any trans. plugs, but from working with other fittings:

Sometimes you can force a "shim" in after the wrench is inserted to get the traction you need. A (cut-off) screw driver blade can be usefull as a shim.

There are also "inside-the-pipe wrenches" but the trans. plug is probably too short for it -- though you might be able to cut the inside pipe wrench down to work. The inside pipe wrench functions to lock inside a round pipe, with a section that cams-out to tighten against the inside wall of the pipe as rotational force is applied. Check Lowes or Home Depot for a set.

pwd72s · 11-04-2004, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by nolift911
BTDT - MAPP Gas is your friend - heat the case not the plug itself.

Buy a 17mm Hex from Sears, whack off a good inch and a half and take a socket with a breaker bar to it. It will come out.

For installation don't put in in so tight - I only tighten mine until it does not leak - which is not much. The stupid PO put it in so tight....(oops I am the PO). Learned my lesson.

Wil - no outties available. I tracked down a company that was going to make me up a batch. Batch to them was 100 plugs Need to dig that up...maybe there is a market?

-Jeff
nolift911@hotmail.com

Ask 'em if they could make a batch that will use a 19mm wrench for removal & install instead of the 17mm hex. I'm thinking Wayne could sell a lot more than 100 of them. Especially if sold as a set, both a magnetic drain and fill plugs...

jason2guy · 11-04-2004, 08:41 AM

just went through this. weld a nut on there, i tried everything else.
as far as the new plug, everytime i tried ordering one they kept giving me a oil tank drain plug, it even had TRE stumped for a second. just buy a couple of new plugs and put them in. i dont think they come in an "outy"

LeRoux Strydom · 11-04-2004, 08:45 AM

Why not make your own "outtie" by welding a piece of 17mm hex or anything else suitable into the new "innie" before installation of the new plug?

LeRoux

djmcmath · 11-04-2004, 08:53 AM

LeRoux, that's actually about the best idea I've heard all day. There's about 3 posts like this every month. I was the idiot who drilled mine out, shortly before I rebuilt my tranny (I'm sure they're unrelated). Easy-Outs are supposed to be pretty effective, for those of us who don't have welding gear in our garages, as well.

Dan