Oil Pressure sender - Druck Press

[superleeb]

Please help!

I have a RHD 911 (no air con) 3.2, (1987) with a broken oil pressure sender. Until last week it worked fine, the gauge reading 1 per 1000rpm, now it wont rise above 2 regardless of revs! I have checked the clock dial/needle this seems fine, so am wanting to replace/check the sender unit. WHERE IS IT?? I have read other questions but not seem to relate to later models. Anyone got any pics I would be VERY grateful!

superleeb@hotmail.com

911 3.2 RHD - gorgeous! but a bit broken!

[Gunter]

Try this: oil pressure sender switch picture on a carrera
Try the "search" function on this board, i.e., keyword: "Oil pressure sender" or any other topic you need help with. Check the wiring to it first. If you need to remove it, be careful. You need to dismantle the line in part and counter-hold with a second wrench if necessary. Cheers.

[Richard-Dublin]

I've attached a photo from our host's catalogue (earlier version but it looks very much the same in your car). It's pretty obvious when you look at the engine!
I changed mine without too much difficulty but you will need a crows foot wrench. I didn't find it necessary to dismantle any oil lines but care is needed not to disturb the block that the sender is screwed into.
The part no. from our host is C-606-135-00 + J-123-009-20 (Sealing ring).

[superleeb]

Thanks. I have looked, and searched, but there doesnt seem to be a conclusive answer to where the oil pressure sender (as opposed to the temp sender) is on a 87 model. Is it the 3" "can-looking" sender I should be lookn for?

[Gunter]

Yes, as in the pic above. Temp sender and press sender sit very close together right side of fan mounting post.

[MOMO3.2]

superleeb:

If you are going to DIY on the druck press sender, BE CAREFUL!. BE VERY CAREFUL!!

It can be done without taking anything off the car, but one runs the risk of stripping the aluminum block that the sender is mounted in. It is a crap shoot... It worked for me, but it was dicey.

If you are going to DIY, you will need a crow's foot wrench that is ground down enough to fit under the unit and not get blocked in by surrounding pieces.

Good luck.

Mike

[randywebb]

I had a hell of a time getting mine out. Couldn't do it in the car, so pulled the block/sender as a unit & put it in a vice. Two people beating on it and wrenching... both fell down, but we got it out.

[masraum]

You are better off taking the whole thing out like Randy and Mike say, but I was lucky (hadn't seen the warnings) and was able to do it in the car with a Craftsman 15/16" crows foot. I didn't have to grind anything on the crows foot, it fit like a glove.

15/16" is 23.8125 mm, and the metric size of the sender is 24mm. The tolerances built into the wrench cover the extra .2mm.

That may save you having to find a 24mm crowsfoot which will probably be difficult to do and cost a fortune.

Another little tip, if you ever need to remove the steering wheel, don't go all over the place looking for a 27mm socket, just grab the closest 1 1/16 socket and go to town. 1 1/16 converts to 26.9875mm which again is perfect since they have a bit of extra space in the tolerance of a craftsman tool.

[superleeb]

Thanks guys!

I went out to try and check the wiring now I know where the sender is, but wiring was fine. However, just decided to give the sender a little tap with the screwdriver, and whoo-hoo! the gauge started working again. At least I know the problem lies with the sender, and I will replace it, or get the garage to the next time its serviced!

[Dan Owens]

Pull the gauge out and clean the terminals on the back and put some dielectrical paste on them.