Newby needs help w/ Ride Height

patzim · 11-10-2004, 07:06 PM

Recently made an emotional, purchase on a $5K '77S model. Replaced accumulator & fuel filter and have been driving the tar out of it. Can't say enough about the IQ's, since of humor, and patience, of those posting to this site. Amazingly helpful. Thanks.

Put new tires on and need to bring the rear down. Can't find anything about what tool to use between radius arm and body to turn adjustment screw to lower rear. Turning the nut didn't move the bolt.

Detached shock and loosened lower rear bolt on torsion bar cover thinking this might help open things up - no luck. Not seeing anything in project 54 or 64 that shed light so I must be missing something obvious.

Unfortunately, the locking bolt is turning, and can't be tightened without somehow getting to the bolt head??? Help.

Other puzzler is that road wheel center and torsion bar center measure equally at 293mm from floor instead of 16mm or 37mm difference. Are my torsion bars tired?

Thanks,
Pat - Arkansas

surflvr911sc · surflvr911sc's Garage

Welcome to the board. It sounds like you got a hell of a deal!

There are special wrenches for getting to the rear suspension adjustment bolts. They are thin b/c there isn't much room. You might be able to get creative and get on them enough to work but you will want to get them for future adjustments.

If your '77 rear suspension is the same as the SC supension (I think it is) then here is a pic of what everything does. You have to loosen the 'lock bolt' before you can adjust the height, then tighten it before anything changes.

If you haven't loosened both bolts then you haven't changed anything. Your bars might be a little tired but make sure sure you are doing everything right before you decide they are bad.

Rot 911 · 11-11-2004, 05:23 AM

You will need a thin 36 mm and 22 mm wrench. You can get them at any bicycle shop.

patzim · 11-11-2004, 05:42 AM

Guys, Thanks for the info and pic. Nice car - looks new.

Made an open end 36mm / 22mm by grinding an old pedal wrench. Determined that adjustment screw is already set at lowest level. I'm assuming this means I have to do the bigger job of removing and resetting splines??? If so, how hard is it to pry off the radius arm / torsion bar? Caliper and disk have to come off too? Anything I should know beyond info found in 101 Projects - project 64? Thanks Again.

vanwyk4257 · vanwyk4257's Garage

FWIW, there is a tech section on here that describes the procedure as well. I'm not sure if it's the same info as found in Wayne's book or not, but the more research you do the easier the job will be. Good luck!

Wil Ferch · 11-11-2004, 07:36 AM

Two items of help:
1.) Tom Fitzpatrick and I collaborated on a means to accurately determine that starting point "angle" of the spring plate ...to set up proper ride heights. Do a search on either of our names or "calculator".
2.) as you found...as delivered from the factory...the two piece spring plates are adjusted fully to one side that only allow raising the car. Allows adjustment due to long term "sag".... As you re-index....you may want to first set the two pieces in the "middle" adjustment range...so when you're done...you can fine tune the height ( up or down) without again re-indexing.

Wil

djmcmath · 11-11-2004, 08:23 AM

The spring plate can be a real hassle to remove from the t-bar. If you're not careful, you may find yourself doing the "while you're in there" job of replacing the spring plate bushings. If they're stock, I'll bet you'd notice some serious handling improvement by that affordable replacement.

I pulled my whole spring plate off, as well as caliper and rotor, but I was doing a lot more work on mine. In your case, you can separate the spring plate at the height adjustment, leaving camber and toe alone, as well as leaving the brakes assembled. OTOH, you may want to pull camber and toe anyway, as lowering the ride height will change those settings.

Does that help at all?

Dan

patzim · 11-11-2004, 09:06 AM

Dan, helps a lot (particularly brake/rotor issue) . . . as have the other posts. Good thought on suspension bushings - if dried and deteriorated, should I go ahead and burn them off in favor of new "wrap around" replacement? Have you experienced any squeaking with this upgrade? Thanks.

djmcmath · 11-11-2004, 10:34 AM

Wrap around replacement? Not familiar with that term, but if (and I use the Greek meaning, "since") the bushings are old and dried, the replacement is a great idea -- it's cheap, it's easy, and it makes a difference. I did the weltmeister poly-graphite bushings from our host, and used the expensive bushing grease. The 8oz jug of spiffy bushing grease, BTW, is way more than you'll ever need. I've only rolled it around the parking lot a couple of times since installing the new bushings (settling the suspension for alignment measurements, testing brakes), so the fact that mine don't squeak is almost meaningless. Do a search -- there's a lot of data on the topic here.

Dan