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Does anyone sell a fixture for drilling broken exhaust studs

I removed a heat exchanger to try to fix an oil leak and, as luck would have it, broke two exhaust studs in the process. Wonderful. Now I cant even bolt my exhaust back on and drive the car.

The studs are snapped off clean and they are too short for the Snap-On collet tool to grab them. I want to drill and timecert them so I can get back on the road. Hopefully I can do it without having to pull the motor.

Ive seen the old posts with John Walkers drilling fixture. Pretty nifty tool. Does anybody sell anything like that?

TIA
Old 11-13-2004, 07:29 PM
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Cool

I haven't seen anyone selling these. They would not be too hard to fabricate.

David Duffield
Old 11-13-2004, 07:41 PM
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yep, doesnt look too difficult. I guess all a machinist would need is an exhaust gasket and a ID measurement of the exhaust port to make one.

Heres JW's


Old 11-13-2004, 07:46 PM
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Also, the remaining studs are completely rusted. I cant believe I didnt break them all. How do I get them out safely at this point. There is no way I can heat them and get the snap on tool on fast enough to remove them.

Should I double nut them, heat them, and use a standard socket to remove? Is Oxy-Ace the only way? Should i be paranoid about this being a mag cased engine if I use torch on the studs?
Old 11-13-2004, 07:51 PM
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they don't generally come out regardless of what you do. gotta be drilled 99/100. shoulda, woulda, coulda used the torch to heat the nuts red. best to leave the others alone if they will still take a nut and tighten sufficiently.
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Old 11-13-2004, 09:28 PM
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I had bushings turned on the lathe to make drill guides to fit into the ID of the exhaust manifold. They fit fairly tight into the manifold and will keep the drill centered. I have two diffent ID drill guides so I can start with a small hole and finish with one just under the minor diameter of the stud (M8x1.25).



I had two broken studs. As for the remaining ten - I'm leaving them in there. After some burnishing work with a thread die they will take a nut just fine. No need to risk breaking any more studs by trying to get them out of the heads.
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Old 11-14-2004, 01:30 AM
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Go over to HD Hardware department and you can purchase different size sleeves that should fit into the exhaust manifold for drilling purposes.

Steve

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Old 11-14-2004, 08:27 PM
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I made mine out of a piece of scrap steel and some 1/2-13 short bolts. Drill the center out of a few bolts which form the drill guide bushings (small one for pilot then larger up to helicoil tap drill size).
Make a center plug out of whatever to match the id of your port and countersink it and attach it to the bar with a flathead screw.
Drill an 8mm or 5/16" hole on the other end to slip over an existing stud. This can all be made on a simple drill press, but a lathe is helpful to drill the 1/2-13 drill "bushing" bolts.



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Old 11-15-2004, 03:48 AM
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I've heard of ( but not seen) mobile outfits that use EDM ( electro-discharge machining)....that WILL work!...but is it available as a mobile resource and how many $ are two open questions.....

Wil
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Old 11-15-2004, 08:41 AM
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I hope I never need to go through this, but Tim I have to say your design is truly a thing of beauty. Simple, easy to build, inexpensive, yet very effective. Well done!
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Old 11-15-2004, 10:23 AM
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some machinist guy needs to make these. it would be a hot seller. there are a few different sizes of center discs needed. mine has a recess cut into the tool body and the disc has a machined ring that perfectly centers in the recess. hardened drill guides are readily available. a 17/64 drill bit is used to drill the shank out of the stud, leaving the threads, that can be removed with a pick and needlenose pliers, leaving the original threaded hole. sometimes they can be pulled out like a slinky. no timesert needed if it's done right.
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Old 11-15-2004, 10:55 AM
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John: How much do you think the market would pay for something like this, with hardened drill guides?
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Old 11-15-2004, 10:57 AM
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Tim,

Agree with Scott and this is a very nice looking tool. Any chances to buy a duplicate?

Joe A
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:00 AM
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Thanks Scott,

Unfortunately I ended up dropping my engine for an overhaul soon after I made and used this tool, but it did work great.

I made my own engine yoke, cam sockets, dial indicator mnt, CIS pressure tester, valve clearance tool, ring compressor, clutch pilot, jack lift stand/plate and probably a few more tools that have slipped my mind. I am a mechanical engineer by day, that along with being a cheap bastard when in comes to one time use tools, I make alot of stuff.

I also get a kick out of people that do not know me, telling me what I cannot or should not try to build (3 experimental aircraft, 1 boat and 1 violin later). HaHaHa!!!
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:00 AM
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I could probably come up with a fair price and make some of these up if enough people are interested.
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:28 AM
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i think the one like i use would sell for about $125-$150. it takes some time to make it, and it will pay for itself pretty quick @ $20 per stud. i've done probably 150 studs with mine so far. it could be ordered with just the one center ring needed, or with the whole set of probably 4 different sizes. a CNC mill could probably turn out a number of them in short order. baum tools doesn't make them, so it would be an open market. even the guy doing one engine would be way ahead, and could even resell it to the next guy.
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:35 AM
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Please put me on the list of people who want one. Needed one with my recent 3.6 swap and might as well have one in the toolbox as I am not ever going to give up my 911!

Thx,

JoeA
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:43 AM
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I'll second John's comment that hardened drill guides are readily available, so I wouldn't mess with plain steel bushings.

I made a guide for drilling out head studs that worked very well. Unfortunatly on the exhaust you don't have two or three other studs to hold the drill guide in place like the head studs.



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Old 11-15-2004, 12:44 PM
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I would obviously buy one . Or rent one, Or do a tool swap for one for that matter. Ive got a yoke, ball joint tool, flywheel tool, or a Snap on stud remover I could loan in return. I can also bring beer and help with an engine drop if you are within driving distance

I dont have a clue how I would get my car to a shop at this point to have this done. I think Ive used up all of my AAA tows for this year.
Old 11-15-2004, 05:27 PM
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Will the proper dimensions I could shoot these out on the CNC pretty easily. Two questions, would hardened drill guides be the preference and is the disk that goes into the port removable for various port sizes or could it be machined as part of the piece? Probably take me a few evenings to make a jig and write the G-code if it could all be one piece. If I had to go to interchangeable disks I'd have to do those manually on the lathe still not a big deal but more time consuming. Let me know guys, I need to pay for my new toy.


EDIT, missed one of John Walker's posts. Hardened guides it is along with interchangeable centers. If I can get the dimensions of the centers I can get started. Also can I go thicker than 0.250" where the "good" stud bolts the jig down? Lastly, steel or aluminum?
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Old 11-15-2004, 07:43 PM
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