Hmm
 

Hmm

I'll WAG it at $1,500+ to have a good shop repair/replace it properly, and paint to match. I have not had to do this repair, and am merely guessing based on my body shop experiences with my Porsche.

You will get a much better idea by taking it to a couple of local shops that specialize on these cars, and get estimates from them.

Good luck,

Hopefully thats the only rust on the car but not likely. Check the rear seats and rear fender wells, battery tray, trunk, floor, the usuals. I have no idea how much that would cost to fix. KevinP73 is highly regarded here in the west coast in socal, try shootin him a pm, he is a great guy and will be doing ALL my bodywork in the future.

This is a typical place for a 911 to rust. You can buy complete new panels from Porsche and they aren't that expensive. At least they weren't 4 years ago. Don't know if the price has gone up since.

That lower corner is a bit of a nightmare....

If there is rust coming thro chances are the inner sills are pretty much gone as well which doees not help the rigiidity of the car.

Get that repaired properly...all the parts are avaliable and whilst you could do it yourself I think it demands a bit of skill.

BTW mine is in the shop having exactly that done as we speak....http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100678708.jpg

I've been getting quotes for mine and it seems to be at least £1000 ($1800) a side.

this could help I did mine and the cost was around $200
to $250 but you need a Mig welder and spray gun http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/152931-yikes-911-restoration-pics-warning.html

Didn't see the last pic, could be a pain but not too bad

Under that thin layer of paint was a hole all the way thro.....

The ball park is £1k per side.....painted etc..

Here's an idea of whats involved:-
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/52268-front-wing-fender-changing.html

Its time consuming but pretty easy - I cannot see how anyone can charge £1000 per side and keep a straight face.
From start to finish, it took approx 10-15 hours.
Parts were approx £50

Any work involving rust is bad. It's exactly like cancer. I'd run away unless the car is ridiculously cheap (really, really cheap) or you are into S&M

THanks guys! I'll get a couple of estimates from some local shops, and go from there. Would rather let a pro handle it...

not only rotten but it looks to be brown in colour - do yourself a favour and keep looking for another car

That is bad. It is in an important structural area and if you don't get all the rust, it will eventually come back. I'd pass on this one.

damn, Eli, is that the 964???

Trust me on this: If the rust is moving upward, it is also following gravity downward.

I'm doing this exact repair right now. I haven't posted pics in a couple of weeks due to slow progress. Part of that is fnding more as I dig deeper.

Let that be a warning as to what to expect beyond the surface.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1100709850.jpg

If you look closely right where the Sawzall is at the bottom of the fender, it's just GONE! Not there. Dissappeared. This was patched once before, which is worse than going after the original damage if it isn't done properly (and this wasn't by any stretch of imagination).

The parts you can buy reproduced don't include the outer part of the rear fender at the radius. (The part that is missing) You have to buy a whole rear fender or make your own. I'll show a pic of that later in this thread or a new one.

This is the area I am tackling next on my car. Left side, right seams fine. It goes from the bend at the bottom up to rear quarter window. Not all but spots, if it wasn't solid I cut it out. Anything my hammer could poke through with some force got cut out. The whole problem stemmed from a rot hole at the bottom front facing side of the rear wheel well. I gave that a temp fix again taking out anything that my hammer could go through and just threw some bondo over it to keep more water from splashing up, not that the car ever sees rain but just in case. I will address either this winter or next spring. I have a similar hole in my right front quarter where the quarter meets the door at the bottom. Well, it wasn't there until I started tapping around with my hammer. So much work, so little time.

The good thing about these holes is that if the weld is not visually perfect, no one sees it anyways with the door shut. I would rather have structurally sound than pretty anyways. Though both would be nice.

I will POR 15 anything solid that, weld in the new pieces and just hope for the best.

Wait, this wasn't about me.

Not sure if you bought it but if you didn't, I wouldn't unless the price reflected it. It can be fixed but at a cost. I know you can get the piece that has the pull for the rear trunk new for like $50 bucks. I think if you have the money for the parts which isn't much for Porsche repairs, a good body /welder guy should be able to take care of relatively easy. Then again I am a hack and think most things look easy. Probably why I get in so much trouble. Don't think the paint would be to bad either where your dealing with a area that isn't typically seen.

If you buy and do not want to do yourself, I would say have a weld guy do the welding and a body shop take it from there. I have found big differences in prices. If that is all a guy does day in and day out, it is a much easy job than for a guy that does it on occasion. Just my opinion.

Good luck,

David

Eli,
What year is that 911 ?

It's a 1978 911SC, east coast car. It spent most of it's life in NoVA and Louisiana.:rolleyes:

Just finished (writing the check) for the same repair on my car. $2800 out the door from a good bodyman with paint. My car needed a new latch post and outer rocker.

If its like mine was, its rusting from the inside. There is a nice little pocket between the outer rocker and the joint where the quarter and latch post tie together that is probably packed full of 20-30 years of crud.

Here's an old post about mine

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/170479-rust-repair-door-jam-rocker-quarter.html?highlight=rocker

If you cut this section away from the car you need to be real careful. there was a bunch of lead filler on my car. If you dont do this yourself, warn your body man about the lead.

Yup, there's lead in the radius and at the top near the quarter window. Factory lead. Sure messes with a MIG welder. This is when know how to braze comes in useful. What you can't weld, you can braze. Many do both; weld first and braze up pin holes, etc.

But once you braze or lead, forget MIG in that area unless you can grind it ALL off.

cheap as SC's are that's looking like a parts car to me.

If you read the cost of the others experience with similar repairs.
Good luck. Hopefully it's not the typical 10 times more than you can see.... I didnt realize it was your car already.. since you have six I thought you were buying another.

Wow if your given the car for STOOPID cheap then MAYBE... But if that is what you can see, I'd hate to think what you can't...

WTF...http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...oilet_claw.gif
I would take you seriously if you actually saw the car, as oppose to a 4 inch rust spot...
To the rest thanks for the response/advice.
Had a bodyman look at it yesterday. The rest of the car is solid, his only guess is that the door seal wore out causing the water to drip down and settle on the rocker, eventually causing the rust :(.

Eli,

I think people are mis-interpreting your original post, IIRC this is a car you already own, right? The Euro sunroof delete SC, right?

Eli, I had a simular area on my car and luckily it was limited to the bottom and arround the rear lid handle.
I welded in small pieces of metal and it turned out good.
It took me a long time because I just got the Mig welder.

I saw one of the linked posts that had pictures of a project where the guy replaced the whole jamb. I didn't do it this way because it looked like too much work. Actually after screwing arround with mine, that didn't look too bad. Drill out some rivits. Best thing is that you will expose everything behind it and can fix anything else that's wrong.

The sill is a different issue because I only had a tiny patch there.
I also don't have the expectation that it's going to last forever.
Next time I'll buy the whole jamb.
Good luck!

You're not far If you want to come by and take a look.
My guess is that either way it's about 8-10 hours at most for an experienced body man plus what ever to prep and paint.
I found a reasonably priced shop that painted my car after I completely stripped it and fixed the rust spots.
My guess is that I saved 3-4K on my repairs and all over paint job Maybe more if you get a price from one of the "Porsche" body shops.

wet mud gets flung into the area by the tire and never gets cleaned out. i doubt the door seal had anything to do with it.

Have to agree with John.
Thre was also a link about wheel well liners.
Does anyone have experience with these?

Wet mud is probably the # cause of rust dammage:

It get's trapped:
Above headlight buckets
On top of SC bumper shock brackets
Behind door jambs (what the current topic is about)
Above oil lines in right front fender
Above washer filler hose in left front fender.
Probably a lot more spots but these are my expereiece.
Fender liners would seam to help. (Can't do it near the oil cooler?)
John have you ever seen them?

I do find it odd that you wont take an opinion seriously with only the info and pics you provided yet you wanted opinions..
I edited the prior post..didnt realize it was a current car of yours..I'm not the only one in the 2 pages of post that would head for the hills if it was a purchase. Good luck hope it's not that bad...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...s/beerchug.gif

No problem, sorry for the brisk response. Drove to NYC yesterday in the afternoon for my brother's birthday, drove back after the festivities ended this morning. Made it back by 7 am, with just enough time to shower and go to work. Needless to say I was a bit grouchy in the morning. :)

My head hurts thinking about it!