Question about Curil T
 

I've been putting all of my engine stuff back together for my BMW rebuild and i was wondering about Curil T.

Does this stuff cure under pressure? I put a layer of it on my oil pan and the excess that seeped out the side is still a sticky gum after a week.. Im wondering if this stuff is cured by pressure or heat? Should I go over the sealing sufaces with a hair dryer? All the sealing surfaces are clean, but I'm a little leery of filling it up with oil until I know what the deal is.

Anyone?

By formulation it is not supposed to harden and it won't. Jim

hmm.. You think I should pull the oil pan off and use something else other than the Curil?

Learn something new every day.... Guess I'm gonna be pulling all of that off again... Oh well... however if there is already a cork gasket on there, wouldnt it not make much of a difference? I figure that if this stuff is temp rated for exhaust and turbo components, as it says on the tube, shouldnt it be fine? Or would the Curil clog up the cork, preventing it from sealing correctly?

What would you reccomend? Just regular RTV?

Well it appears that the oil pan was originally held on with no sealant... However, my old gasket leaked and the OEM spec for the bolts is 7 ft.lbs.. I'm using sealant on there...

You are not going to hurt anything leaving it on there, that is if you are also using a gasket.

yup, I put one layer of Curil on the block, then the cork gasket, then another layer of Curil on the pan... Sound ok to you?

You're good to go. Just don't over torque the screws or nuts. Jim

Thanks for the clarification. Much appreciated...

I'm sure it'll be fine. Here's an FYI on Curil products:

http://www.bus-boys.com/bbzvc.htm

IMO, Curil T is intended for flanged joints or mating surfaces. I've used it on o-rings (specifically the oil return tubes) and the stuff makes a freaking mess of the tubes.

For o-rings, i'd suggest the old standby. The ubiquitous (I had to look that word up :D ) Dow Corning 111, 112 lubricant/sealant. The 112 is the higher temp stuff. Readily available from most any local industrial supply house. Or you can easily get it online at McMaster-Carr. www.mcmaster.com

I've always used the red "tack-sealant" common to older car valve cover gaskets on just abot any "cork" gasket I've worked with. However it does harden and if I can use Curil-T on something, I prefer it because it is easier to work with, doesn't cure, reducing the risk of hardening up in some oil passage somewhere.

OTOH, I've STOPPED using Curil-T on certain things like flywheel seals, etc.. because it has a strong tendency to allow the seal to push out.

Huh? You mean don't enjoy changing out the flywheel seal at the track? Not to mention the "discount" you get on the seal @ the track. :rolleyes: