Educate me about Lexan/Poly windows

[widebody911]

Slated to build the cage this weekend; very shortly thereafter I need to come up with a window solution for my top. I want to do Lexan/polycabonate windows, and I want to try to make them myself, but I'm not 'clear' (get it?) on how they attach, and how you size them, how they mount, what the underlying frames look like, etc. For example, how is the inner mount built up to bring the window out flush?

They're gawdawful expensive from the various parts places, and I need to save some cash.

What I need are pix of the rear three windows and their accompanying fastening mechs.

As to the door windows, I'm working on a design for those right now.

Another idea I had was to do them in dark colored material; basically built-in tinting of sorts. Thoughts on this?

For example, here's a pic I found of a rear window, but I can't tell how it's constructed:

[Eric Mckenna]

Jack O, has that window set up...

[RallyJon]

Dumb question: If you cover up the vent, won't the windscreen fog up?

[widebody911]

Here's what the top looks like - mine doesn't have vents in the back like a coupe does.

[Zeke]

One way to 'flush' the windows is to use some thin AL extrusion and a bender. You don't have to do it all in one piece. Button head Allens with Nylocks inside would be a good bet.

When drilling the holes, be careful and chamfer each one gently both sides to help prevent cracking to the edge. Keep the holes as far away from the edge as possible.

You could even use an offset system where the 'frame' you make is pop riveted to the plastic in about 3/4" and the AL is screwed or bolted to the body. AL C-channel will bend, but it's frustrating. You could try annealing it with a carbonizing flame in the bend area.

I like doing this kind of work and I wish I was there to help. We had all manor of Lexan devices on the karts we ran for supposedly areodynamic purposes. We probably caused more turbulance and eddys, but it was fun and, more importantly, it looked cool.

EDIT: When the pic function is back, and if I think about it, I could post some pics of this kind of work on a kart I have left over. It hangs on the wall sorta like a trophy.

[CBRacerX]

Thom,

I did these on an RSR Replica using the C2 gaskets (no beading). It worked well and was a weatherproof seal. I didn't use any "reinforcing strips" underneath, but I did use a good grade of Lexan to make the window. I recall buying it from an aquarium supply shop.

Chris

[Kevin Stewart]

Thom I cant remember which is which but use the thicker mar resistant, my windshields last 4-5 years and my rear windows are not mar and they last two years, the bigger sheet i think is 10x6 should do front and back, i second a stock seal with the heavier lexan it should be ok, a quick tip leave the paper film on until your done, also most people leave the film on and cut a 3/4 to 1 inch strip all the way around the window then peel only the strip off, sand that part with fine paper then paint it black leaving the paper on the center still, then take the paper off when window is installed, use the stuff from your local race shop for lexan windows to clean always using a clean rag, (so you dont scratch, we always try and go the same direction when cleaning everytime so you dont get swirl marks, we go up and down, Kevin

[widebody911]

I built a set of poly speaker cabinets years ago, and learned the hard way the trick about leaving the paper on.

Any thoughts on using colored material?

What thickness material - 1/4"?