New Clutch and Short Gears

[911-32]

I am hoping to get the board's advice regarding a replacement clutch for my G50 3.2. For the last 2 years I have felt that the clutch on my car was close to the end of its life. I am not aware of it having been replaced in 70,000 miles and I have put 15,000 hard miles on it. Symptoms include much burnt clutch smell on even fast starts, slipping on the rare occasion I actually dump the clutch from high rpms and quite severe juddering when manoeuvring after a session on track. Now I thought a G50 clutch would have plenty of clamping force for a little 3.2 so I am assuming it’s on its last legs. So question number 1: Am I right in assuming it will need replacing shortly?

If so, that leads to question number 2: What are the replacement options and “while you are in there” projects that make sense to do at the same time as a clutch replacement?

I want a clutch that can survive all the normal trackday use and I don’t mind if it’s very on/off in nature. Hardly anyone else drives my car so it doesn’t have to be “wife friendly”. Likewise, if we can save weight with a lightweight pressure plate or similar then so much the better.

I was thinking that while the gearbox is out it may make sense to do a mini gearbox refresh. I guess this means synchros rings, synchro cones, sliders as required(?). I think that my gearbox is great – best pre 1990 911 box I have driven, so maybe it doesn’t need much. I would also (dependent on cost) love to put in shorter 3rd and 4th gears to give a nice close ratio 2/3/4. I think I would leave 5th as I hardly ever use it on track and could live with a “cruising” 5th gear.

I can see some prices for synchros etc on Pelican but does anyone have any idea of overall costs? I know some of you are running close ratio 915s (Rdane?) so that would be useful info if nothing else.

Many thanks,
Richard

[911-32]

Bump

You mean nobody has any contributions???

[dickster]

rich

if the clutch slips at all in normal use it would be probably need replacement.

you would only need attend to things like leaks if your gearbox is shifting properly. mine for instance is hard to select 1st - the synchro is worn - do you have any problems like that? if not i would leave alone - close ratios sound interesting though.....

[Jcon]

For most of the people on this board it's pretty early. You'll get more input in the next 3-5 hours as the West Coast (US) crowd wakes up.

I have a 3.6 conversion and just put in a Sachs Power clutch. Lot's of guys on the board are using them with no complaints. Lots of track use with higher HP cars and they seem to hold up nicely without being difficult in day to day use. Decent price also at around $550 or so from pelican including throw out bearing and pressure plate.

As for your tranny. If it's shifting well, I'd leave it alone. Unless you rewally have your mind made up on the shorter gears. Some others will need to chime in on that topic. It depends on how you'll use the car. If it's mostly street I'd think long and hard before I changed the gearing. Lot's of expense and real world trade offs ...but I'll let others with real experience give thier impressions.


Jeff

[Carrera3.5L]

Originally posted by Jcon

I have a 3.6 conversion and just put in a Sachs Power clutch. Lot's of guys on the board are using them with no complaints. Lots of track use with higher HP cars and they seem to hold up nicely without being difficult in day to day use. Decent price also at around $550 or so from pelican including throw out bearing and pressure plate.

There is a Sachs Power Clutch available for the 915 transaxle, but not aware of one for the G50. Many people "update" the G50 disc from the stock rubber centered unit to the spring centered unit from the 75-77 3.0L 930. A direct replacement. Just get a new G50 pressure plate and throw-out bearing and you are set for street use.

If the motor and trans is out of the car to do the clutch, now is also the time to do the "release fork update" that plagued early G50's if it hasn't already been done. Will get rid of the "heavy" and "binding" pedal feel if you are experiencing those symptoms. Check Pelican for how much the parts are, should be somewhere in the $100-$150 range. Different manufacturers have "kits" available, I stuck with Porsche's "update" kit but research it and come to your own conclusions.

With respect to gearing, that is a personal preference. Alot of people throw big money into the motor trying to gain more horsepower and completely ignore the transaxle. A suitably geared transaxle that complements the motor's power curve can make it feel like you have gained 50 horsepower.

Ralph

[911-32]

FWIW the intended use is increasingly track use - it already has most of the usual go fast track bits - but it has to be vaguely driveable to and from the track. For UK insurance reasons, the engine (for the time being) remains basically stock, so the trans mods are attractive.

I was hoping for some feedback to help me anticipate problems. For example, would a lightweight flywheel and/or pressure plate work with a Motronic engine? I have driven close ratio 911s before and I love the way they are right back into the meaty part of the torque curve straight after every upshift. On track, I find in particular that the 2/3 gap is too large and you sometimes get caught at around 3,500rpm in third not wanting to downshift but caught below the 4,000+rpm kick - which seems to take a while to arrive with a euro 3.2 engine.

I am very much in the planning stage so any sugestions or info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Richard