I just ordered 5 gal can of Tecytl 846 from

Petroleum Services Company in Penn
1-570-822-1151

$37 x 5 = $185 + shipping

tectyl 553 has a different mil spec and can ordered but it's not in stock. It's basically the same stuff.

There is, or was, a Wurth product in a spray can that sounds an awful lot like the Tectyl ... Wurth Body Protection.
I've used it in the bottom of door panels, among other things.

http://www.wurthusa.com/project/en/leftnavi/catalog/product.php?path=04.0231.jpg

I should have mentioned before that Pelican no longer deals with the Tectyl.

Why did Pelican drop it?

Re: Removing mag case corrosion
 

Read this and you will never sleep again. Actually oxidation protects magnesium it just doesnt look pretty.

Environmental Factors
Atmospheres. A clean, unprotected magnesium alloy surface exposed to indoor or outdoor atmospheres free from salt spray will develop a gray film that protects the metal from corrosion while causing only negligible losses in mechanical properties.

Chlorides, sulfates and foreign materials that hold moisture on the surface can promote corrosion and pitting of some alloys unless the metal is protected by properly applied coatings. The surface film that ordinarily forms on magnesium alloys exposed to the atmosphere gives limited protection from further attack. Unprotected magnesium and magnesium alloy parts are resistant to rural atmospheres and moderately resistant to industrial and mild marine atmospheres provided they do not contain joints or recesses that entrap water in association with an active galvanic couple.

Corrosion of magnesium alloys increases with relative humidity. At 9,5% humidity, neither pure magnesium nor any of its alloys exhibit evidence of surface corrosion after 18 months. At 30% humidity, only minor corrosion may occur. At 80% humidity the surface may exhibit considerable corrosion. In marine atmospheres heavily loaded with salt spray, magnesium alloys require protection for prolonged survival.

Fresh Water. In stagnant distilled water at room temperature, magnesium alloys rapidly form a protective film that prevents further corrosion. Small amounts of dissolved salts in water, particularly chlorides or heavy metal salts, will break down the protective film locally, which usually results in pitting. Dissolved oxygen plays no mayor role in the corrosion of magnesium in either freshwater or saline solutions. The corrosion of magnesium alloys by pure water increases substantially with temperature.

Salt Solutions. Severe corrosion may occur in neutral solutions of salts of heavy metals, such as copper, iron and nickel. Such corrosion occurs when the heavy metal, the heavy metal basic salts or both plate out to form active cathodes on the anodic magnesium surface. Chloride solutions are corrosive because chlorides, even in small amounts, usually break down the protective film on magnesium. Fluorides form insoluble magnesium fluoride and consequently are not appreciable corrosive. Oxidizing salts, especially those containing chlorine or sulfur atoms, are more corrosive than nonoxidizing salts, but chromates, vanadates, phosphates and many others are film forming and thus retard corrosion, except at elevated temperatures.

Acids and Alkalis. Magnesium is rapidly attacked by all mineral acids except hydrofluoric acid (HF) and H2CrO4. Hydrofluoric acid does not attack magnesium to an appreciable extent, because it forms an insoluble, protective magnesium fluoride film on the magnesium, however pitting develops at low acid concentrations. Pure H2CrO4 attacks magnesium and its alloys at a very low rate.

Organic compounds. Aliphatic and aromatic hydrocarbons, ketones, ethers, glycols and higher alcohols are not corrosive to magnesium and its alloys. Ethanol causes slight attack, but anhydrous methanol causes severe attack. The rate of attack in the latter is reduced by the presence of water. Pure halogenated organic compounds do not attack magnesium at ambient temperatures. At elevated temperatures or if water is present, such compounds may cause severe corrosion, particularly those compounds having acidic final products.

After reading that, you get the feeling it's a miracle any mag cases still exist. I took the advise of one of the guys on this thread & went out & bought a spray can of Corrosion Block at a local marine supply store. Sprayed my tranny & put it in storage. It's still there & looks very good. I'm going to leave it on when I install the tranny in my car.

they said too much bs w/shipping.

Reviving and old thread...

I am renovating my Carrera 3.0 and want to protect some of the enclosed sections of the body now that it is open for rust work.

Have been searching for where to buy small quantities of tectyl. It is nowhere to be found here in the US???

Anybody with a source?

Appreciated the help.

A friendly pelican lead me to this link

TECTYL 506 - Buy Online Now! TECTYL 506 Usually Ships Same-Day.

I need it in an aerosol can though, which i dont think they have, to be able to spray it into the chassis.

Thanks pelicans

Tectyl XXX is just a higher molecular weight fraction of hydrocarbon (like grease). For purpose of coating metals to exclude water and future corrosion just use a phosphoric acid based etching primer or the stuff that reduces iron oxide back to an iron phosphate (comes in a spray can from local auto parts store.

Why not just get the transmission (or engine, for that matter) good and clean and dry, and paint it with a good, high temp, engine enamel?

Go to your nearest marine dealer and pick up a can of CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor, looks and performs just like Tectyl.

tectyl is more of a liquid wax to my understanding





http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337015313.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1337015331.jpg

That corrosion issue is no joke!

When I rebuilt my 901, I meticulously cleaned and degreased it with Power Purple! and a huge amount of water. It worked like a charm to get it clean. I reassembled and drove the car from DC to Seattle in January of this year.

I had a bearing in the transmission fail and had to get it out of the car in Feb. The case was covered in a thick, nasty coat of corrosion upon removal. I could not believe that it had become so bad in so short a time! :eek:

I removed what I could and rubbed it down with Gibbs. I think it'll do for the moment, but you better believe that I'll be looking for TECTYL or something like it in the future.

Moral: the bare Mg MUST HAVE some kind of coating applied to it.

-Dan

PS My fan and housing got all nasty too... :( Wow, driving through a salted area, even if only a small one, does amazing damage.