Difficulty shifting G50
 

I have no previous experience with G50 gearboxes (prior to the last few months anyway), but I'm hearing/feeling a notchiness when shifting to any gear (except maybe reverse). I wouldn't call it a gear grind, but there is a definite resistance and sort of a gear mesh clunk when shifting. This is worse when cold, but it never completely goes away.

Does this sound normal? I don't want to drive it much until I find out if I'm causing more damage.

Thanks for the help!

same here, search will get you lotsa info, I conclude it's normal

Since it is worse when cold, I would think it might be a gear oil issue. Do you know when the last time the gear oil was changed? And what type/weight was used?

It should be pretty easy to shift when fully warm. If it's just tough to shift when cold then putting some Mobil 1 syth gear lube in will help some. The first G50 that I had was always a little tough into first, and even had receipts from when the car was new from the original owner and dealer about the same thing. It was easy getting into every other gear. If so inclined I could spin the tires into 2nd and chirp them into third. The second G50 that I had was easy into all gears.

No idea, but I wondered about that also. I'm not sure of the service interval, but it couldn't hurt to replace the oil. I have the service history on the car, so I will go back through the receipts tonight to see if anything shows up.

Steve,

The car is never terribly difficult to shift, and it is definitely easier when warm. I will try to replace the gear oil this weekend to see if that helps.

I know that the Mobil 1 synth is a common change for G50 cars, and when I made the change I noticed a definite difference, especially when cold.

Do you know the weight off-hand? I can probably find it in the archives if not. I would feel better about switching to fresh oil anyway, so I will do that ASAP.

Thanks,
Shawn

it could be a symptom of the hydraulic operating system needing to be bled.

try red line 75/90ns it,s even better than mobil1

keith epperly 87 slant nose turbo look carrera cabriolet

I'm pretty sure Mobil 1 is only made in the 75W-90 weight. At least that's what you'll find at your local parts store or Walmart, etc.

Yeah, I'd go with Mobil 1 75-90. Also, the drain plug is magnetic, so be sure to take note of what it has collected. Big shavings/pieces = bad, but a sludge build-up is normal. I would also recommend investing in a cheap oil/fluid hand-pump. You can find them at most auto parts stores, and they make the job much easier. Have fun!

John,

I read up on bleeding the clutch MC and slave, so I will try that also. Sounds like I can't get by without a power bleeder though. Does anyone recommend a good place to buy one? I'm sure some of the local auto parts stores will have one.

Thanks.

John Walker makes an excellent point as well! If you have no records of the last brake fluid change/flush, I would take the time to bleed the system (brake and clutch circuit are shared). Bleed the clutch slave cylinder as well, which sits on the top/front of the gearbox.

Thanks for the suggestions Eric. Cool subtitle!!

You can get a vacuum bleeder, Mightyvac, either here from Pelican, or you can probably also find it at your local parts store if you can't wait for the delivery. I don't know about a Motive power bleeder.

poor man's bleeder. a squirter hose from a later bug or 914, a 911 master cylinder cap, 25# air pressure from either the spare tire or the LF tire, clamp off overflow hose on reservoir, and go.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1101767361.jpg

That would work too! I guess you would have to watch the fluid level in the reservoir, but no big deal. I could also dial the pressure down on my compressor for the air supply.

Hmm... The Motive bleeder looks a lot like a garden sprayer with a gauge and a master cylinder cap.

Yep, I think that's pretty much what it is.

Hmm, Yeah it does look like a garden sprayer...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1101779930.jpg

$18 in parts from Home Despotism. I put a shutoff valve in it and the hard part is coming up with the cap that fits the reservoir. Make sure you don't over pressure the system because the reservoir isn't designed to deal with real pressure. Always use fresh fluid and don't let the pickup inside become uncovered as it will blow all the fluid out of the lines in a few moments.

I have found that the slave cylinder can hold a lot of air even if none is coming out of the bleeder. I have finally taken to unbolting the slave from the transaxle and letting it hang with the bleeder at the top. Shazaam, easy instant bubble removal.

Oh, you will need a good bottle to catch the brake fluid. I recommend the official Tony Stewart sports bottle, duck taped to a 2x4. :)

Wayne