Live and learn, I suppose
 

I've been reading about adjusting the rear ride height by up to about 3/4" by adjusting the concentric bolt on the springplate. Well, my car has been riding about 3/4" higher in the right rear so I finally decided to get off my butt, jack up the car, put it on jackstands, take off the wheels, and do the adjustment.

Well, after all that I find out that I need a MONSTER 36mm, yet skinny, wrench for the back side of that concentric bolt. Crap! I don't have one of those. So I check to see if Pelican's got one. Of course they do - $42 plus shipping. Oh well. End of work for the day. Time to put the wheels back on and order that darn wrench.

Maybe next weekend. On a related note, I noticed that those bolts are on there TIGHT! Any suggestions on how to loosen them? I've already sprayed WD-40 all over them so they'll have a week or so to sit there and soak, but do any of you have any <I>other</I> suggestions?

-Scott

PB Blaster - much better than WD-40 for unfreezing. Start spraying it on three nights before you start your project. Every night give it a little "Blast".

You can get a 36mm thin wrench at any bicycle shop for much less than $42

maybe this is backwards but im looking for info on raising it 3/4s of an inch. I know the rear is a little higher than the front as is because the car has been lowered. But... The rear seems too low, the front is perfect.

Where are you reading about this adjustment from?

Autoxracer31, what are the measurements of the tops of the wheel well lips on the front and rear? Do you know that the rear should be 1/2" lower than the front by that measurement to get the correct rake? The rears are cut lower than the front, so to get the front lower you actually want it a tad higher.

You may have already known that, but just in case, I thought I'd let you know.

McMaster Carr or Grainger sells those wrenches too and there is a location near you. But Pelican needs support too.

Fender measurements are not the best to use for rake setting....use the t-bar centers.

Well, I've got the "101 Projects for your 911" that describes the adjusting process and I did some searches on this forum for more detailed info.

-Scott

Oh I never knew that. I was just speaking from a cosmetic standpoint. the thing is probably done correctly then. The front fenders are 1/2 inch above tire. The rears are even with tire tops but since they are wider the tires are not rubbing.

Oh yes, those bolts are one serious b!tch. I had to use a breaker bar and a 2" PVC "extention" with some serious back into it. Got it broke. For the back I used a bike 36mm wrench by Park. I wrench bikes for fun, so I was lucky.

How'd you hold both wrenches while you were trying to loosen that nut? Did you jam the wrench in somewhere? Or did you even need the big one until it was time to adjust the bolt?

-Scott

To get the bolts off, use leverage. Attach another wrench onto the correct size and then push down near the end of the other wrech and.....uhhhhhh the bolt is off. Just a trick my dad taught me. Apply it to any other hard-to-loosen bolts.

Matt