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Lubricate everything possible. Keep an eye on oil and washer levels. Waxoil anywhere necessary.....drive!

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Old 12-09-2004, 09:54 AM
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Waxol (no i?) Do they still make that stuff?
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Old 12-09-2004, 11:44 AM
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For those who feel it necessary to put something in the car to absorb moisture, Home Depot and Walmart (so Cal) have a product called Dryzit (I believe). It's much more expensive at Home Depot than at Walmart. The kit comes with a black plastic cage on a vertical stem with a cup under it. The material used to absorb the moisture comes in small plastic bags & looks like little styrofoam beads. You fill the upper cage with the beads, which absorbs moisture and collects in the bottom cup. The beads are used up over time, and you have to empty the cup of the liquid periodically. The bags of beads cost about $1.29 at Walmart, and you can buy them separately from the plastic cage (after you buy the kit). At Home Depot you have to buy the whole kit for around $8 every time you run out of beads. It works pretty well. I was amazed at the amount of moisture that collected in the cup over a week's time.
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Old 12-09-2004, 02:18 PM
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ok... im a bit obsessive complusive.. but here is my ruitine..

1st.. always store in garage.. if not find an in door car storage place! (if in cali it makes sense too.. elements like sun, rain (when you get it), vermin, kids, dogs.. bird ****..)

Wash car, Wax car if possible and if temperatures permit. make sure to drive afterwords to completely dry it ioff (ie air dry stuff like underneath and areas towl cant get to)

Fill tank with fuel not too far from home and add fuel stabilizer at the gas station if car is going to sit more than 3 months. Adding stabilizer at the gas station allows the stabilizer to work through the fuel lines completely.

make sure to cover any open ports so critters dont go in and bed... ie stuff a sock in the exhaust.

also strategically placed moth balls underneath the car helps keep critters away.

other things you can you is to close the doors.. but dont shut them all the way.. ie keeps the door and trunk seals from crushing as much (ie.. makes em last longer).

dont set the parking brake.

Leave car in neutral (manual transmission cars). Insure that the transmission is not holding the car in place. chawk the tires to keep it from rolling

add 10 psi more than usual to the tires


do NOT start the car periodically over the storage period. Starting the car during the winter months and letting it idle builds condensation. Idling never gets the car to operating temperature to burn off condensation.


Drive the car onto plastic in storage area to keep condensation from forming on the underside of car from warm winter or spring days. This is important if you store your car on a concrete, stone or dirt surface.

remove batterey from car COMPLETELY... dont let it sit and leak and cause rust.. place batterey on wood in garage or basement or wherever)

change oil before storing. This way you get rid of all of the nasties that have accumulated in the oil since your last oil change (acids, unburnt fuel, burned oil...etc).

covering the car will trap any condensation.... so i usually dont. just use a california duster to wipe dust of when you take it back out of storage..

you can get a car bubble.. works wonders and will help big time. (ie air circulates inside bubble to keep dry, and bubble protects from outside stuiff.)

you can also get big silica gell packets to keep things dry on the inside. put one on driver floor, passenger floor, and rar floors.

empty out windshield washer resivouior... (excuse me i cant spell.. )

bleed brakes (get condensation and moisture out of line so it wont rust..)

the list goes on.. depends if youre a paranoid and compulsive freak like me.. or if you dont care and just wanna dump it in the garage til next spring.

make a list of all thigs you do so you can remember what to undo when you bring it out of storage

storing your car is important, but i honestly feel the most important part of the procedure is awaking it after the long winters nap.


what to do when awaking barbarosa...

undo all of the above.

recharge air filter, adjust valves, check air preassue, recharge batterey.. full tune up basically,

when starting 1st time disconnect coil then crank to build oil psi.. when have preassure connect coil and start.

finish doing full tune up. bleed brakes again (same reason and to have good fresh fluid in there), change brake fluid. change gear box fluid (should be done about ever 10k.. i do the begining of every year as i usually drive more than 10k a year)

and clean everything.


anyone wanna add to my insane list? please feel free to do so if i missed anything

btw.. if you wanna go really nuts you can 'pickle' the engine. but if youre storing for only a few mos it may be extreme.

Harry "from the frozen tundra of Ohio" Hoffman
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:31 PM
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When winter comes around I will put the car upon jack stands and give Pelican Parts some more money. I am planning on doing front suspension work this winter. If I am not going to start the car for some time especially having a CIS unit I fill it up with fuel add a good fuel additive I use Sea Foam Motor Tune Up.
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Old 12-09-2004, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by randywebb
Waxol (no i?) Do they still make that stuff?
Waxoyl
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Old 12-11-2004, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Just hope they don't go off and die in some nook and cranny of the car or your garage. If they do, the smell well haunt you for a very long time.
Have you guys actually had problems with mice/rats dying in inconvenient places after being poisoned with Decon, or are you just theorizing? Generally, it makes the little guys thirsty and they head off to find water. You certainly shouldn't ever find them dead somewhere in the car.
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Old 12-11-2004, 11:05 AM
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From the length of some of these post, it looks like some have very long winters. Winter storage around here is maybe at most 4-5 months tops and thats only if you choose to not run the car in the sporadic 50 degree days you'll get in December, February, and March. Just think some of it is overkill and should be moved over to the "long storage", (6 months to a year) subject.
Old 12-11-2004, 01:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by MovOvr1
I have also heard that you should not put a car up in the air for long periods of time due to the improper extension of the suspension. Granted the tires will not be flat spotted but your suspension might be screwed.
The way I have seen museums do it, is that they put jackstands under the suspension components, so the wheels are off the ground, but the suspension is still loaded (clever).

Very good comments from everyone here. I will turn this into a good article.

Any suggestions for cars that are driven through the winter?

-Wayne
Old 12-16-2004, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts

Any suggestions for cars that are driven through the winter?

Let CIS & carb warm up till CHT reads 175degF. I have no experience with winter '84-'89.

don't check tires in a warm garage. 10degF = 1psi afaik.
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Old 12-17-2004, 01:15 AM
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I just found this list on my hard drive:

1. Make sure your gas tank is full. This will reduce the amount of water that can be absorbed by the gasoline and it also slows the rate at which it turns to varnish. Use and additive like "Sta-Bil", "Dry Gas" or similar. Make sure it's well mixed and run the car for a while to make sure it's in the entire fuel system.

2. Freezing temperatures naturally dictate that anti-freeze be used. But even if it's not freezing, put it in. Many of the newer 'coolants' have excellent corrosion inhibitors that will help protect and lubricate your cooling system. A 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix is fine. Again make sure to run the car so it's mixed throughout the entire system.

3. Change the engine oil. Dirty oil is contaminated with acids and water that can cause premature bearing failure and rust inside the engine. If the car is likely to be left for a very long period of time unattended, remove the sparkplugs and liberally squirt some form of 'upper-cylinder lubricant' into the cylinders before replacing the plugs. This will help stop the piston rings from rusting to the cylinder walls.

4. Make sure the Brake and Clutch master cylinders are full of brake fluid. Brake fluid can absorb water very quickly. By reducing the exposed surface area of the fluid, the water absorption can be reduced. If you can, bleed the brake and clutch systems. It is recommended that you do this on an annual basis anyway, to purge the system of old and possibly contaminated brake fluid.

5. To inhibit rust in the engine area, use a lubricant spray such as WD40 to coat all exposed metal surfaces. The volatile carrier in the WD40 will soon evaporate leaving a protective film on the hose clamps, coils, carb bodies etc. 'Wax-oyl' is also good, but you'll want to hose it off at a 'car wash' in the Spring.

6. Wash the entire car and apply a good wax. Don't forget to clean the inside. Do this early in the day to give it plenty of time to thoroughly dry before putting it in storage.

7. If you have a convertible top, leave it up and the windows and vents closed. A convertible top can develop nasty creases when folded for long periods, especially in cold climates. Treat Vinyl tops with Silicone or similar. Keeping the windows and vents closed keeps small creatures from entering. But buy some desiccant sacs from a storage supply house 'Dry Pac' for example and place them inside the car on the floors. This will keep moisture from damaging the interior if it is damp or humid where you are.

8. Ensure that the boot is clean and dry, The boot seal is not always positive and some moisture can collect and condense in the inner fenders and floor. Air it out well for a day or so, then place a desiccant sac in here too before closing it up.

9. Finally, take the car on a good 30 minute run. This will evaporate all the moisture in the exhaust and in the engine. Then park the car with the hand brake off and either 'chock' the wheels or leave it in gear if necessary. Over inflating the tires can help guard against flat spots. Disconnect the battery.

10. The best thing to do for a stored car is to visit it once a month and take it for a short drive. This keeps everything in good shape, preventing things from getting corroded and seals drying out. At the very least have some one start it up periodically. If you are going to cover it use a proper Cloth car cover, not a Plastic one. If you find the concrete floor in your storage unit gets damp or 'sweats' use cat litter, or lay plastic beneath the car to prevent the condensation from reaching your floor pans.
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Old 12-17-2004, 04:02 AM
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Quote:
Any suggestions for cars that are driven through the winter?
regular hose down to keep the salt off.

i always give the areas under the fenders a good scrubbing when i first buy a car because the dirt collects under there, and it gets pretty thick after years of use - prone to corrosion. then just keep it clean.

i have yet to see a better rust preventative than good ol' (used) engine oil. i once saw a 25 year old mini with a floor pan as fresh as the day it left the factory - it had been treated with oil for years.
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Old 12-17-2004, 04:44 AM
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"Any suggestions for cars that are driven through the winter?'

Wayne - I'd say to start a new thread on this....

A couple of common errors are to think that the car has to get to over 100 oC (212 oF) to boil off water in the oil. Untrue as water will volatilize at any temperature - it just affects how long it takes.

A good rule is to drive the car until it is warm, then drive it another 20 to 30 minutes. In other words, short trips are bad bad bad. (They also generate the most pollution.) So save the env. and have some fun. It doesn't mean you can't stop[ the car briefly while shopping or running errands, but don't just drive 5 minutes to work and let it sit all day.

Also, don't let the car sit to warm up.
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Old 12-17-2004, 10:34 AM
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We have already had our first snow here, so this Saturday I will winterize my 911. Here is my complete list.

1. Take off polished fuchs with street tires.
2. Mount OEM fuchs with Bridgestone Blizzak snow tires.
3 Continue driving.
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Old 12-17-2004, 10:40 AM
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..winterize??



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Old 12-17-2004, 11:39 AM
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Throw the snow brush and ice scraper in the back.

If I'm in the mood I get a jug of fresh ethanol based antifreeze and pour it into the....uhhh...driver.
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Old 12-17-2004, 12:28 PM
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Wayne, here is another useful article:

http://www.porschenet.com/winter.html
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Old 12-18-2004, 11:12 AM
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Winter

All I have been doing is adding StaBil and covering it. Starts up right away every spring
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Old 10-14-2005, 01:22 PM
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[list=1][*]fresh oil and filters[*]top up tire air[*]wash, wax [*]drive hard to dry everything out, remove wheels and treat all surfaces w/ wax[*]top off gas tank[*]remove wheels to clean and dry inner surfaces/wheel wells brakes[*]rubber gets treated w/ 303[*]rat poison liberally placed around the perimeter of the shop[*]moth balls liberally scattered under the car along w/ Bounce fabric softener sheets[*]Bounce liberally distributed in trunk and engine areas[*]car heat turned on[*]car cover[*]permanantly hook up a smart battery charger[/list=1]
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Old 10-14-2005, 01:38 PM
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I bought a Porsche cover this year to put my baby to bed for the winter! Fairly cheap and fits like a glove....


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Old 10-14-2005, 01:41 PM
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