Rear susp - castellated nut size on '82 SC

[larkja]

I have an '82 SC.

Before I go out and blow the money on purchasing the incorrect socket size, thought I would check here first.

I am removing the rear hub to replace the bolts with longer ones so I can add 14mm spacers to the rear. I have removed the rotors but am now hung up on the castellated nut.

For some reason, the nut has moved counterclockwise and is pinching the cotter pin which means I can't remove the pin. I have clipped the pin enough so that I can get a socket around the nut. But, I can't get the castellated nut to budge with a regular wrench because I don't have enough room to get in there.

I searched the threads and it looks like the nut is a 32mm. Is this correct? My dang Haynes manual does not indicated the nut size. Also, is this nut really torqued down? Am I going to break something trying to get it off?

Thanks,
Jim

[larkja]

Thoughts?

[Jim Smolka]

Ok, checking the manual, looks like it is 30mm hex (20mm nut [901.332.806.00]) has the cotter pin. Some Carreras from 85-86 had the 32mm hex (22mm nut self locking) that did not have the cotter pin [900.910.093.02].

Yes, it is really torqued. Recommend purchasing 3/4" drive stuff. Then comes the trick of applying enough umph to torque it to spec.

The spec for a 20 mm nut is 300-320 Nm (217-231 ft-lb).
For a Self Locking 22mm nut, the spec is 460Nm (339 ft-lb)

[larkja]

Thanks. I have a 1/2" torque wrench I was planning on using.

[Early_S_Man]

Jim,

Your 1/2" drive torque wrench won't even budge that nut!!! It was torqued to 300 - 350 Nm!!!

What is needed ... is a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 5-foot piece of pipe to slide over the handle ...

[larkja]

So, since I don't have a 3/4" driver or a 5' extension, do you think I should just eat it and have my local shop take off the hub, press out the old bolts and press in the new?

Thanks,
Jim

[William Miller]

On mine it zipped right off with a 1/2 impact wrench.
Do get an impact socket.
It's worth a try with what you have. I think the scoket cost me $14 at wwgranger.
Good luck!

[geof33]

It is basically impossible to get the rear hub off without destroying the bearing. Plan for that. There are several threads regarding the nightmare rear hub removal. I would stop where you are. You can replace the studs without removing the hub. I don't know the specific process yet (I'll be doing it soon) but it can be done. Something about removing the ebrake and something else and tapping one stud out at a time...

[Early_S_Man]

Jim,

You don't have to take the hub off to replace the studs ... remove the emergency brake cable, then line up the studs with the hole in the backing plate and knock the stud loose with a brass or copper-faced mallet, remove the stud out the hole in the backing plate ... install new, longer stud through the same hole!

You can get a steel lug nut for 1971 VW Type 2 Bus or Westy Campmobile ... and use a large washer against your spacer to 'pull' the new studs into place.

[William Miller]

That's good to know!
I was responding to the question and not thinking of the big picture.
Thanks guy's, i learned something.
BTW I was doing it to replace my bearings and yes, removing the hub did destroy the old ones!
Good luck larkja!

[larkja]

Okay, that whole e-cable and pulling worked great. The only problem...

I had to remove one of the brake return springs to get the emergency cable and miscellaneous hardware out of the way to free up the hole. Now I can't figure out how to get the return spring back in the hole.

Any tricks? I'm sooooo close.

Thanks,
Jim

[Jim Smolka]

There is a brake spring tool available from FLAPS. Cheap too.

[larkja]

What is FLAPS and does the tool have a description/name?

Thanks,
Jim

[jpnovak]

Favorite Local Auto Parts Store.

Any E-brake spring tool should work. They are specifically shaped pliers

[larkja]

Thanks