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Slumlord
 
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One more reason for users to fill out their "Location:" tag in the user info area.
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Old 06-13-2007, 11:51 AM
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ok point taken. have changed it !
Old 06-14-2007, 03:00 AM
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did it

did this over a 2 wek period, little at a time as I was waiting for the gear to arrive in the uk. just finished, well pleased. used a realy fine thin metal edge to undo the screws and became very proficient at it in the end.

Gordon
Old 08-19-2007, 04:58 AM
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I did a 944 speedo and it was really fast. My friend gave me the speedo and a box full of gears from odometergears and I brought it home as my project that night. I popped off the needle by covering the face with a towel and then prying up the needle with a needle nose plier. I just opened up the jaws a little and used it as a lever with 2 contact points and the needle just popped off. I disassembled the speedo and had the gear in place within 10 minutes. Dropped off the speedo the next day and it went into the customers car.
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Old 08-19-2007, 05:28 AM
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Thank you so much for this thread! I bought a gear and took my speedo apart only to find that mine did not match the one in Wayne's book... I'm glad Thrasher provided such a comprehensive description.

I have one question, What kind of grease do I want to use on this gear?

Thanks again!

Kevin
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Old 05-10-2008, 10:42 PM
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Slumlord
 
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I don't think grease is required.
Old 05-12-2008, 04:32 AM
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A comment and a couple of questions

great post, I took my speedometer and sat in front of my computer to make the repair which was the same issue that you had.

1) I was able to remove the speedometer needle with any damage; however, I did not mark it's starting point. Is the starting point at the dash (i.e. 10) before the 20



2) I am just about to put the final piece, the bezel, which I took off with many small prying motions along the lip of the press-fitting that holds the black bezel. To put it back on, do I need to smooth out all of those prying motions on the bezel, slip it back on and press-fit it back? if so, what did you use for the smoothing part--pliers?

This may seem like a silly question, but I feel that I have one chance to do this right.
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:10 AM
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Just to clarify, did the OP (Thrasher) actually ever remove the needle/pointer? If not, does the part that needs to be worked on just fall away once you've managed to finally get the 4 screws removed using the side of a screwdriver? I ask b/c I'm having a helluva time getting the needle to budge, I can't believe how firmly attached it is to that ultra thin shaft.
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Old 05-27-2009, 03:43 PM
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I actually grabbed the needle at the center most point and pull (and prayed) and it came off.

I heard of people pulling it off and having it break during the process--good luck

Brad
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Old 05-27-2009, 04:57 PM
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No, I never removed the needle. It was a little dicey, but I was able to just remove the screws holding the gauge face on. By rotating the needle to the proper orientation while tilting the face, I was able to gain enough access to the mechanism to swap out the gear.

I was trying to avoid breaking the needle and/or losing calibration.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:47 AM
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Thrasher,
Thanks for the clarification. When you refer to losing calibration are you talking about the needle/pointer's relative position on the face of the guage? Currenly the needle on mine is pointing dead on the lowest white dash. Couldn't I just make sure it's pointing to the same spot when I reinstalled it? I guess I want to make sure I'm clear on what people are referring to when using the term calibration. I assume when the gears are all removed the mileage #'s could easily be jostled but hopefully that won't happen or at least I can return them to the exact mileage as before.
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:24 AM
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WOW! I thought the needle removal was common knowledge at this point. Whatever you do, don't try and just pry the needle off, or pull it off. It's mounted on a tiny tiny shaft (much smaller than what you can see when it's mounted properly.

You rotate the needle until it's at a stop (high or low) and then continue to rotate past the stop, at this point the needle is spinning on the shaft. While you are going past the stop you can now lift (from the center) a bit but take it easy. Go back and forth (from the min. stop to to the max. stop) pulling up very gingerly until it comes off. There's no drama in this method, the forces you are using are very slight, I've never heard of anyone breaking the shaft this way. Installation goes the same way, only gingerly pressing down and not pulling up.

Zero was marked on my '89 so I had no issues with calibration. If you don't have a low mark you might want to think of some way to mark it before removing the needle.
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Old 05-28-2009, 10:42 AM
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Good description, I was worried that rotating against the min/max stop could break something but apparently that's the way to remove it.
Thanks
UPDATE...FINALLY got it off. That sucker on on there TIGHT. Thank goodness nothing broke...yet.
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Last edited by 88911coupe; 05-28-2009 at 11:30 AM..
Old 05-28-2009, 11:27 AM
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You also use that rotating to get it realigned when you put the needle back on. You want it to *just barely* touch 0mph when the spring loading ends.

I was able to pull my needle straight off the shaft, but it took LOTS more strength that I expected, and was quite surprised that it survived.
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Old 05-28-2009, 11:32 AM
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Outstanding! But it seems that http://www.odometersgears.com/ is out of business. Is there another source?
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Old 11-14-2009, 08:02 AM
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http://www.odometergear.com/

Maybe. Try him...who knows. The last line seems okay.

We have odometer replacement gears for most makes of speedometers including BMW, BMW Motorcycle, Audi, Volvo, Saturn, Mercedes, MB, Ford, Lincoln, Chrysler, Dodge, Saab, Motometer, Sumlog and VDO. These include mechanical speedometers and analog electronic speedometers.

These high quality odometer gears are machined not molded using a tough long lasting plastic. The original gears used in most speedometers fail because they are made of a soft plastic that decays with age. The myth that pushing the reset on your trip odometer while driving causes the failure is not quite true. The gears fail because they were just about to crumble anyway. Note that our gears may be a little noisier (you may hear a faint ticking), but will last a lot longer. And you can press the trip odometer as much as you like.

We guarantee you will be satisfied with these speedometer gears. If you are not, or you ordered the wrong one simply return it to us for full credit or swap.
Old 11-14-2009, 08:04 AM
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I've had some luck removing the needles on VDO speedos by using two butter knives.

Carefully, protect the speed face and use both knives under the needle , twist the knives against the shaft and wedge the needle up and off.

It will usually just pop off with little effort.

To keep you calibration. prior to removing the needle, gently lift it up over the stop and come to rest. Note the location. There are usually some markings on the face, if not, just make one with a pencil.

Then remove the needle. Do your repair and reinstall the needle on the shaft in the same location (you now have a chance to make a change on the reading by adjustment the location of the needle in relation to your mark, if like most the MPH is 5mph too high for the road speed. reinstall the needle two or three widths "slower" than your mark) The needle presses back on with very little pressure. Don't push too hard.
Old 11-14-2009, 10:39 AM
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Thanks for your advice, I just finished replacing mine, I found that if you loose the speed face and place the knives under it works better to protect the needle and the speed face, my wife helped me putting pressure in the oposite side, so if you have one ask her for help!!
Old 11-15-2009, 11:27 AM
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Nick G.
 
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Thrasher did an excellent job documenting his approach on changing that faulty gear. I had to replace mine 3 days ago (1987, 911) using the needle replacement option. Here it goes:

1. Take the ring out as described by others. I used tape on mine to minimize damage. The first picture shows all the components.
2. The needle has a minimum and a maximum stop and it is spring loaded. Make two reference points before taking the needle out. One between the needle and the dial (your zero point) and the other between the dial and the outside case. I used the top slot on the case to mark mine (110 mph was dead center with the slot). You will need these reference points when you put the dial and needle back together to avoid re-calibrating the speedometer.
3. Turn the needle CCW to pass the minimum stop point and then lift the needle from the center straight up. Then turn CW pass the maximum stop point and lift again. Go back and forth slowly while lifting up from the center a little at a time (lift after you have passed the min/max stop points). After a few turns the needle will come off the shaft. You are home free.
4. Take out the 6 screws from the rear of the case and slide the internal assembly slowly forward. Be careful of the exposed needle shaft.
5. Take out the 2 dial plate screws and remove the dial.
6. Take out the 1 screw holding the motor and the 4 screws holding the gear mechanism. You should now have the gear mechanism in your hand. Take it to your wife in the living room (see if she cares), have your beer/wine/scotch and be proud of yourself. Remaining pictures.
7. Replace the faulty gear as described and shown by Thrasher.
8. Install the gear mechanism back (4 screws), install motor (1 screw), install dial plate (leave screws loose), put the assembly back in the case and secure with the 6 screws.
9. Position the dial to match your reference mark in the case and tighten the dial screws.
10. Install the needle on the shaft and observe where it stops. If the needle is above your minimum mark (0 mph on mine) turn the needle CCW. If it is below, turn CW pass your maximum mark and turn a little more. Let it spring back and see where you are. Keep doing this until your needle will eventually stop at your minimum reference mark. Your calibration is back on.
11. Install the face plate and ring (good luck) and you are done. It took me 3 hours to do this, 2.5 of which messing with the ring.

I hope this would help.



Old 12-13-2009, 11:17 AM
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Thanks to all who have posted here, this is very handy information.

I have a few questions though.

Both my odometer, and my trip set have just quit working.
Will this one gear fix both, or do I have more gears to replace while I'm in there?

My speedometer is off by 5 mph at 55-60 mph. I presume that when I replace the needle, I just rotate it 5 mph on the shaft. Is this correct.
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Old 12-13-2009, 05:49 PM
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