First spark plug change this evening. Do I have it right?
 

84 Carrera 3.2

I'll be disconecting AC compresser.

Bought Bosch Platinum but further reading tells me to go back to Advance and get Coppers?

Don't tap set with feeler gauge in the plug. (028?)

I don't have the tool kit tool. Will be using 13/16 swivel foot socket, 3/8 drive, 6" extension. Extension taped to socket. Will see if the nieghbor has a 4" extension.

Finger tight then (no torque wrench) tighten untill I fel washer crush? Apparently this is an aquired skill. Hope I get it right. I may try using a piece of fuel line attached to the plug to get initial line up.

A little metel nipple type adapter came with each plug, will I be using this or discarding?

Searching this subject was very helpful, Just want to make sure all my bases are covered as this is my first plug change ever:D

Sounds like you're good to go. Might throw in a little dielectric grease on the connections, just to minimize any potential corrosion problems down the road.

Go back and get the copper plugs. 6" extension will make it a bit difficult to remove the spark plug out of the well on your number one cylinder. Hard to find 4" extensions. Just get a 3" and a 1" and tape together (I welded mine). You will keep hitting up against the cover of the electrics. Those little nipple adapters need to be screwed on to the spark plugs.

I know it's been said before but the factory tool really makes it so easy.

I've tried the socket extention route and found it to be very difficult. The factory tool is the only way to go IMO. You might want to try and track one down for future use.

BTW, I have never had to remove my A/C compressor (I think that is what you mean by "Disconnect"). Save youself some time and try it with the compressor in the car. It really is not that bad.

Factory tool makes it a lot easier.

Bosch plats suck.

Don't need to disconnect AC.

I torque my plugs to 18ft/lbs.

I do not remove the A/C.

What about some high temperature anti-seize compound on the threads before installation? (That's a question more than a suggestion; I'm curious if others use it?)

where are you locfated? I know that a lot of standard parts stores dont have copper bosch copper plugs.. I went to Bap Geon in Va because allt he regulars didnt have them.

On the anti-seize subject....we use it at the shop routinely on new plugs...just a very light coating on the top 2 runs (or bottom, depending on which way you hold the plug....the threads that go in first). Just my opinion, but I think a good copper plug works best on most P-cars (leave the platinum, titanium, kryptonite, whatever to those with more money than sense). Also, might re-check the plug gap as well....it's not always correct from the factory.

What the others said. Sounds like you've done your homework.

Unbolt the compressor and, leaving all hoses connected, drape it over the rear quarter panel (fender) with a rag to protect the finish. Taping the extension and socket is a GREAT idea. With some sockets you might have trouble turning the corner on #6. All others will be cake. Still, the factory tool rules. Finger thread at first (just use the darned socket and extension instead of some bullship piece of hose) to avoid cross-threading. Until the washer crushes. You can feel it.

Copper is better than platinum.

Snap-on sells a 4" extension. However, there is a better plug wrench. I like it better than the factory tool, becuse it has a 3/8" drive fitting instead of the allen wrench that cuts your hand: It's a Hazet #2505-2...Samstag sales sells them on the net, aound $45 by the time you add shipping.

"Socket, Spark Plug 3/8" dr Expanding Spark Plug Socket, 13/16" (20.8mm) . With a rubber insert to hold the plug. It is made with Chrome-Vanadium steel and mat chrome
plated. Push the release pin and this socket will adjust from 137.5mm to 157.5mm to 197.5mm. HAZET suggests you use a model 8816GK flex head ratchet with this socket to get the most benefit."



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1103304213.jpg

I second that! In addition, before you start, let the engine cool down, disconnect the plug connectors and blow out the plug cavity with compressed air to prevent dirt/dust from getting into the cylinders when you take the plugs out! I use anti-seize on the threads, some people don't. Your 13/16 socket should have a rubber sleeve in it to hold the plug when you put it in. Make sure that you have the plug well started before you apply force (Danger of cross-threading!) The plugs have a slight angle to them when installed; stay in line with the plug when torqueing so you don't break the insulator. I use a little dielectric grease ( or Vaseline) on the connectors so they go in easy. SmileWavy

Steve Wiener just posted today on Rennlist to use a Cu based anti-sieze -- and not much of it either.

You can rotate them backwards (counter clockwise) to seat the thread lead and reduce Xthreading problems.

i think with a 6" extension, you may eff yourself. too long. i use two LOCKING extensions. you get good disconnecting and connecting them with one hand. i dont have any issues. and i own the factory tool. never used it, yet. piece of cake.

Thanx for the input. I'll find a 4" extension, use some high temp anti seize, go back for the copper plugs, attach the nipple adapters, and try it with the compressor intact. This DIY stuff is awsome.

I agree - if you are going to use antisieze, use copper antiseize, not the standard silvery stuff.

I'll buy what The Weiner said--Wurth Cu antisieze--but FYI, Champion also makes a liquid antisieze intended specifically for plugs (obviously) that comes in a little bottle with a brush in the cap. When I was working on airplanes, it was the default stuff.

Stephan