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New early shell, new project beginning.....need input please.
As an update, I now have a 73 shell, dipped, stripped and in primer sitting on the dolly in the garage.
The shell has SC flares welded on, as well as the rear seat/parcel shelf removed, and a large square access in the roof. Don't know if this was in preparation for a lightweight roof skin, or better access to welding the tops of the cage bars. Upon initial assessment of the shell, it seems to be 98% rust free, with only a few places that 'could' benefit from some patching. My next task is to start going over the shell and sorting everyting out....will try to upload some pics for everyone to see. List of things that I could use some direction regarding: 1. Where to outsource a lightweight roof section? CF or Glass, as well as any links or experience with this type of installation. 2. I will need to source some good metal to fab patches and misc. items. What is a compatible gauge to use??? 3. What is everyone's opinion on reinforcing the swaybar mounts (front and rear) as part of the build up process? 4. Any other 'ideas' or 'direction' that I want to consider now that I am starting from a blank slate. Are there things that other owners would like to have done looking back, if they had to do it over again?? thanks Chris C2 |
1) You should probably retain steel for the basic tub structure - maybe in a lighter gauge depending upon the location - like the factory did for the RS. I'm not sure that F/G or C/G is a good substitute for structural panels in a steel structure. I think it would be difficult to spread the loads across the edges from one material to another - but posts from the BB's many mechanical and structural engineers will answer that.
2) Stock thickness or less - again depending upon location, load and stress - threads on RS "lightweight" panel locations. 3 & 4) Check the pictures and ideas from Jack Olsen's BBII. Also there is an aftermarket rear swaybar mount that's better than stock according to Bruce Anderson. Nice line-up, have you considered 911's from any other decades? |
Chris, if the metal is protected with post dip oil, I'd get it to roll on a temp suspension and put a cage in it next. Here are a few pics of mine built by James Achard, (JPAchard). A thing of true beauty.
Oh, and let's see some pics! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1103509785.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1103509801.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1103509818.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1103509834.jpg |
I would leave the tub alone. No sense cutting off the top, might as well have started with a targa or cab... The sunroof can be taken out and welded closed. I have never heard of an FG roof, but they probably exist. Most likely not reg though...
I like the reinforcments to the above body, but it's added weight and kind of debatable on the effectiveness. Very cool though... FG body parts are fine. to include the rear quarter. Keep the unibody intact. The rest is just weight and doesn't add a significant amount of strength to the car for the weight...:) |
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For the backseats unless you want to weld in stock replacments(alot of work) you could build something like this.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/swapmeet...2004/Pic73.jpg |
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Sweet! Great starting point - the nasty cleanup and discovery process is already done.
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Armando, ATL is the only way to go. Fuel Safe's aren't safe.
This is the model designed just for 911s. Call up ATL directly, they may give you shop pricing as they did for me. Mine has the fuel pump and surge built in. |
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