The Three Step Paint

[MotoSook]

So I called a local paint supply house and here is what I was told:

When starting from bare or galvanized metal, I should:

1) Prime with a self-etching primer, Variprime.

One coat is all that’s needed, anymore and I’m just wasting the stuff.

The Variprime "kills" the rust and prevents new rust that might be on the bare metal (of course we start from metal that has been cleaned of rust, but there is oxidation that is not so visible to the naked eye).

2) 2-part regular primer on top of the etching primer.

Unless I’m using lacquer paint, then I shouldn’t need a sealer coat. The lacquer will soak into the primer and dilute the color. The guy actually said he thinks a sealer is not necessary unless you are using lacquer, and that is for any color of paint. Yet, since I’m painting Silver on top of gray primer, he really doesn’t think I need a sealer.

3) Apply paint after all the sanding and prep of the second primer.


So! Kevin? Anyone with paint experience? Do you concur?

I’m using a Dupont paint.

[project935]

A light Variprime coat is all that is needed. Be generous with the high-build primer because you'll be sanding lots off if you want it right. Don't worry about sand-thru with the Variprime in small areas (<3") if you can get the area right with high-build primer. Metalworking/filler is needed if you have a larger sand-thru area than that.

When using lacquer, the sealer is used to actually protect the primer - lacquer thinners are strong and it will lift the paint underneath ... not just dilute the color.

Enamel is tough to shoot and get right for a DIYer - expect orange-peel and runs ... WYSIWYG.

Urethanes and enamels don't necessarily require a sealer, but it is good practice to apply on top of primer that has been drying for awhile (ie sanding and guide-coating). The sealer just before the top-coat promotes good top-coat adhesion with a chemical bond - don't rely on the "tooth" of the primer coat alone ... you'll see sanding marks appearing as the top-coat dries and ages.

Lacquers and urethanes can be color-sanded flat and reworked if needed relatively easy for a DIYer.

When I painted my candyapple red '66 Mustang back in '93 out of my Dad's plastic-sprayboothed garage, I used lacquer ... color-sanded beautifully and used lots of rubbing compound(s). It looks clear coated, but it isn't. 12 years and 30k miles later, the paint still looks fantastic (minus the chips) and is easy to touch-up if needed. I still take home 1st/2nd show trophies and always get comments on the paint job ... not bad for my first one!

I'll use lacquer or urethane if I do it again. A friend of mine did a clear coated white urethane paint-job on his Mustang and it turned out really well (his 2nd paint-job) ... more durable than laquer too.

[mb911]

souk Use dupont Uro that works for all . I have very close friends that are reps for dupont

[widebody911]

I use a similar high-build primer made by Evercoat; "Featherfill" or some such. Lay it on thick, sand it down with 320 and higher papers. That's the yellow stuff in this pic:

[tommy5305]

Suok, what type of DUPONT paint?

[MotoSook]

What ever the paint tech recommends I guess. I'll find out. Maybe as Ben suggested, Uro.

[Zeke]

So far, so good, here. Different opinions, but I think everyone is correct. I like an epoxy ecthing primer and then the sanding primer. Sanding primer is very porous and can soak up some of your top coats. I like a sealer to prevent this.

A very well respected local restorer of 356's doesn't use the epoxy or the sealer. He has the metal preped right when he begins the priming and then wet sands his final prime coat with 600.

Acrylic enamel can be color sanded when used with hardener. Again, I prefer to get the paint as nice as possible during the spraying. A good polish job will bring it right up. There will be a little orange peel, but there are damn few cars that have none and are perfect.

But, sealers can add to your orange peel problem because you don't sand them unless you just nib the surface with some fine ScotchBrite and tack rag before shooting.

[cgarr]

What color are use painting? single or two stage paint? Be carefull of that high build primer, (I think they were developed to serve the high speed bodyshops) you really need a flat hard block to get all the waves out of it, what gun are you using?

Craig

[MotoSook]

Good info guys.

Craig, I'm painting the car silver. I'll do an etching primer, then a couple coats of sanding primer, sand the primer, then maybe 3 coats of single stage paint and finish up with some with sanding.

I hope to con Chris Streit into painting it with me. He's got a Harbor Freight spray gun that's served him well.

[Zeke]

You can't sand metallic. You're better off using a 2 stage system or spraying some clear over the paint.

One trick I have used over the years is to blend acrylic metalics and clear, since clear is the base anyway. Here's how you do it: Most acrylics take about six coats or three double wet coats. Start out with straight silver and do your first two coats. Then, 30 min later, 2 more. Then add some clear; a little less to the first of the next 2 coats and a little more to the 2nd. Then, proceed to a nice full clear coat, full enough that you won't sand through it. If you do, you won't go directly into the pure silver paint.

If you sand pure metallic, you expose the metallic particles to the surface and you can see that. They may even oxidize.

If you "blueprint" a HF gun, it will paint OK. Look at a Binks or a Devilbiss and see the difference. All of the holes have to be very good with no burrs or abberations for a good, even spray pattern. That is very important with metallics.

[tommy5305]

I used CENTARI about 8yrs ago on my 323i '' ALPINA'' garnet red, then wet sanded with 1000 and buffed with 3M polishing compound. Looked really good. next car I did was my 94' mustang COBRA it was painted with GLASIURIT, in CHROMA ILLUSION whith the new clear [455 line] the SHINE is unbelievable.

I ALSO HAVE POOR BASTARD [89 ZX-7R WORKED]

[Rot 911]

Forget using lacquer, no one sells it anymore, which is too bad, because anyone can make a lacquer paint job look good. Everyone raves about urethane because is does dry quickly, but you also have to worry about the cyanide fumes in it and you need a positive air respirator, although I have sprayed it outdoors and have lived to tell the story. Like Zeke says you can color sand enamel if you used a hardener in it, but enamel takes longer to dry.

[tommy5305]

KURT V , they still sell lacquer but depending on color,some are harder to get. Uerthane will get you sick . Enemal is pretty safe , but you should spray in a booth. Rent one, Idid

[cgarr]

Im going back to single stage after using two stage, I just like the feel of single stage, My black porsche is single anyhow but as said you do need a positive air supply, I have always used hardener, 5 to 7 coats of sherwin williams, block color sand 1500, 2000 then 3000 it makes the orginal porsche finish look like an old chevy, if your trying to match the orginal porsche you need to leave some orange peal in it.

Craig

[KevinP73]

All the advise shared so far sounds right on. You have to decide which you like better as for single stage or two stage. Metallics come out better in two stage. Solid colors are fine in single stage. Follow all the manufacturers instructions and be carefull with breathing and booth setup.

[MotoSook]

Well! I guess I have to clear it. Thanks guys..this is going to be fun

[Mike Bonkalski]

Souk,

If you need a PAPR (powered air purifying respirator), I have a few I can get my hands on. Let me know.

[MotoSook]

Mike, I will take you up on that when the time comes. Thanks!

(Did you get the headers to the coater)

[Mike Bonkalski]

I'm going over today at lunch.