Purchasing a 1983 911

[Ronnie J]

Hello to all. I am new to the 911 world and will be purchasing my first 911 this spring . The year I want is a 1983. I have heard nothing but good comments on this year. Was wanting advice on what to look for when inspecting different cars. I have heard the higher mileage cars should be rebuilt around 150,000 and then I have also heard that this is not necessary if the compression is good. I would also like to know any modifications to look for that have been done or will needed to be done . I thank you in advance for your help and comments.

[aigel]

150k miles? That's barely broken in, on an engine that is well maintained. Seriously, I'd get worried over 200k, if the compression numbers are weak.

You want to make sure you have the car inspected at a Porsche shop. Mainly the body for wreck damage and the engine, since both those things are high dollar items.

The 83 should have the chain tensioner upgrade and a pop off valve. Search the forum for these terms, if you are not familiar with what they mean.

The 1981 to 1983 SC are practically identical. Unless you look for an SC cabrio (only made in 83), you should widen your search for the 81-83.

Take your time and do not buy without a pre purchase inspection that includes checking head studs and compression.

Cheers, George

[Superman]

The '83 does have some important upgrades that even the '81 does not have. I'm hazy on the particulars, but I think one of the differences may be the chain wheel carriers behind the chain housing cover. They are believed to be a principle reason why early tensioners failed. That, plus the upgrade to Carrera tensioners makes for a reliable valve train.

But heck, all the SC's are hot. I like the '78 and '79 units because you can put the later 9.3:1 P&C's on them for cheap, and get some fairly good performance.

Head studs in SC motors are snapping like popcorn these days. The motor virtually cannot be worn out, but head studs do break, necessitating at least a top end dismantle. And while you're in there.....

Just find a real clean example, somebody's garage queen, and have a PPI done that takes more than an hour. Have them count head stud nuts. Less than 24 means the engine has to come apart.

[aigel]

Superman:

81 is the year the idler arm base was widened and got a bushing, not 83. You can verify this in Wayne's book and I have seen this for myself, when updating my tensioners.

Cheers, George

[Ronnie J]

Why are the head studs breaking on the SC engine and what is he result if one is broken?

[Joe Bob]

Porsche used dissimilar studs top and bottom. The bottom Dilivar studs broke on a regular basis. Fixing requires engine and top end tear down and replacing the bottom row with steel studs.

Broken studs will allow loss of compression and other nasty stuff....

[aigel]

The special alloy was used because it expands similar to the aluminum of the cylinders and heads. It was done on the lower studs, because these get hotter than the top.

While it is not uncommon for studs to break, both on the 3.0 and the 3.2, in my opinion it is rather rare on cars that never see corrosive climates. One more reason to stay away from cars with any rust belt history. I know only one person (out of about a dozen) with a 3.0 or 3.2 that snapped a stud. Here in the Bay Area broken studs seem rather uncommon.

Again, a good pre purchase inspection (PPI) will reveal any broken studs. The compression numbers should reflect broken studs, but the only sure way to avoid a car with broken studs is to ask that the shop takes the valve covers off and checks the head nuts to be tight.

George

[geof33]

Why an 83?

If you move up to an 84 you get MANY issues solved instantly. First and formost DME and no CIS. CIS is ok, but needs attention. The EFI on 84+ is far better/reliable. Not to mention the motor is a 3.2...

Just wondering why you are on the 83 side??

[CarreraS2]

SCWDP?

[aigel]

Originally posted by geof33
Why an 83?

If you move up to an 84 you get MANY issues solved instantly. First and formost DME and no CIS. CIS is ok, but needs attention. The EFI on 84+ is far better/reliable. Not to mention the motor is a 3.2...

Just wondering why you are on the 83 side??

The 3.0 has much less valve guide problems than the 3.2. 150k miles on a 3.2 likely will warrant a top end rebuild! Not the case on most 3.0s I have run across with high miles. Also, the 3.0 does have the stronger bottom end, with bigger rod bolts and is fairly easy to hop up to and beyond the stock 3.2 performance.

Now, the CIS ain't pretty, all right, but it works just fine. The motronics isn't true EFI either, it still fires in banks and if it breaks, it can be a real pain to diagnose and fix. Not much better than the CIS, in my eyes. Have you seen where the cylinder head temp sensor sits on the 3.2? Have fun changing THAT thing! And yes, on the 84, I read those were an issue.

I'd buy any 80 and up 911, but to preach that the 3.2 is far better is not 100% correct.

George

[Moses]

Originally posted by Ronnie J
The year I want is a 1983.

Well, the man has exquisite taste.

[geof33]

Originally posted by Moses
Well, the man has exquisite taste.

Moses, you don't count. Your car is FAR from a stock 83...

To the 3.0-3.2 "discussion"...whatever

Most would argue the 3.2 is one of the best OVERALL motors done in the 911. All are good and all have issues, but overall the consensus is the 3.2 is the best of the bunch when comparing all areas... Bruce Anderson seems to thinks so anyway...

[Mike Kast]

All I want to know is how many SC's are in Fairbanks Alaska? If you do get an SC, get one that is over 200,000 miles, All the bugs have been worked out by then
Are you willing to go south for it? That'll add to your upfront cost. Take it from someone who bought a car from across the country, add 8 to 10% to your cost if you do. Unless you want to drive across canada. Yea... 8 to 10% even if you drive.

[Ronnie J]

Like I said I'm new to the 911 world and 83 was recommended by a friend. And no I won't be staying in Alaska. I am a civilian Communcations Engineer working for the DOD here in beautiful Alaska but I will be leaving in a few months. I will be deploying to Iraq in the very near future and this 911 will be a present to myself when I return. I also will be transferring to the Southeast when I return from overseas. I am trying to absorb all the information I can because this has always been my dream car. Also I want to say thanks for all for the tips and info.

[Joe Bob]

Originally posted by Moses
Well, the man has exquisite taste.

I also think he has good taste.....

[MBAtarga]

Obviously a man of good taste!

[Mike Kast]

Buy "The Used 911 Story" by Peter Zimmermann
It goes over ever model year of 911 and tells the goods and the bads of each year and the progression of the 911. It is great history and also gives a lot of great suggestions about how to not get caught with a piece of crap. These cars can get expensive so sometimes people neglect them and sell them when the repairs become more costly than the car is worth.
I started looking for one just about 2 years ago and bought one in the spring. I read some books, looked at and drove a few cars and finally bought one from a pelican. A big reason I went with the car I did was because the guy I bought it from had a boat load of posts here all about the work he had done on the car. The engine rebuild was all documented here. All of the pain and pleasure the car caused him was posted. Well... we all have our secrets but for the most part I am very happy with my car.
It is good to have a game plan. Mine was, I wanted an SC, the newer the better right? I wanted a coup, didn't want a twisting Targa right? I didn't want a brown car...
The tighter my criteria became the harder it got to find a really good car. In the end, I bought a brown Targa. A 79
It's not really brown, it is sort of a burnt orange metallic. It's a color I never would have chosen but I like it a lot. It is fairly common on new cars now. I saw it on a new Vet the other day. I didn't like it much on the Vet but, whatever...
My point is if you are looking for a black on black 83 coup with less than 50,000 miles on it in mint condition for $11,000 you might be looking for a very long time. Get the book. Get lot's of books.
Come home in one piece please and get yourself a well deserved SC!
A Bulletproof SC. My 911 has a bit of a middle eastern twist on it too. From Fairbanks to Iraq. Damn!

[Ronnie J]

Thanks again gents, Also to Mike Kast, I just ordered the book you recommended. Appreciate the tips.