Front suspension squeak

fortunesailor · 01-02-2005, 06:38 PM

I have an 84 Carrera and everytime I go over a little bump it squeaks like an old wreck. Any ideas on what the problem is and how much it will cost to fix? I can't stand it. It is embarassing to drive in residential areas.

MuffinMan · 01-02-2005, 07:00 PM

Does it go away if you drag the brake pedal? It might be a brake pad dragging on the rotor.

fortunesailor · 01-02-2005, 07:25 PM

No its not the brakes. Even at 70MPH driving down the highway it squeaks with every bounce of the car. Thanks for the advice though.

Cipotifoso · 01-02-2005, 07:26 PM

Check your tie-rod ends.

jpahemi · 01-02-2005, 09:13 PM

Could be the front torsion bars rubbing in the carrier. The necks rub when the bushings deform enough.
Regards,
J.P.

LakeCleElum · 07:28 AM

My 73.5 was doing that. The Sway Bar was making contact with the dust cover on the left front strut. A small pry bar put it back in place and the noise was gone. I need to replace the busings, but havne't done it yet. The bar has since stayed in place and it's all good for now!!!!!!!

tonythetarga · 01-03-2005, 07:22 AM

Had the same thing with my 86. It is the front sway bar bushings (4 of them). If you plan to do it yourself, like I did, let me know, I'll send you a tech article I wrote. I did it the wrong way a couple of times so I got lots of practice doing it!

fuelie600 · 01-03-2005, 07:29 AM

Tony,

Can you post the article? I would like to read it too.

Thanks!

tonythetarga · 01-03-2005, 08:19 AM

I had to load the pictures seperately, so check the pics as you go through. I couldn't seem to load the article with pics as written originally.
Tony

911 FRONT SWAY BAR BUSHING REPLACEMENT

The removal and replacement of the front sway bar and bushings for a 1974 to 1989 911 follow the same procedure, but have differing bar diameters.

Jack up the car and remove the front wheels. The traditional front jack point is in the way of the front bar removal so it is suggested you use the front end of the wishbone where it fastens to the chassis. Soften the bearing point with a block of wood.

Remove the stoneguard plate that is just posterior of the front crossmember . Beneath that you will expose the rear sway bar mounts, which will need to be unbolted. Depending on the amount of wear on the swaybar bushing in the front wishbone, you may be able to wiggle the bar rearward for removal. A little squirt of WD40 might help the removal process.

There are four bushings in total, all identical, one on each wishbone and two that mount under the stoneguard posterior to the crossmember.

Once the bar is out, inspect it for damage to the powder coating. If may need to be replaced if rust and pitting is excessive. Remove the old bushings from the wishbone and clean the bush mount. Insert the new bushings dry and be sure the bushing seams are facing toward the centerline of the car. See photo below. (When the bar gets re-inserted it pushes away from the centerline of the car under driving conditions and you do not want the loading forces to possibly open the seam and cause premature damage to the bushing and swaybar.)

The installation rig shown is a device made up by a local club member. The first component is a clamp that attaches to the bar just below where it will insert into the bushing. Once the clamp is on as in photo 2, there is a bolt that acts as an anchor for the puller that squeezes the bar inward, allowing you to insert it back in place. You will likely have to make your own puller. Be certain you mount the anchor points as close to the bushing as possible where the bar bends and make sure it is solidly fastened. There is a lot of load imposed on the components so make sure you use a strong chain and turnbuckle. I suggest the turnbuckle have fine threads to make removal easier and you will need to use a wrench or other device to assist in tightening.

Photo 3 shows both clamps in place and the chain puller in position to tighten the turnbuckle that pulls the bar ends and allows you to align it to place into the bushings.
Before you insert the bar, put a bit of Vaseline on the bar end that will go in last as well as in the bushing to help it fit in place. Fit the bar in one bushing first and then adjust the turnbuckle to align the other end of the bar. You will wiggle the bar a lot getting it in place but it will go in. Make sure you have about an inch of the bar sticking out through the bushing and you know it is in about right.

The seam placement for the two rear bushings also needs to be installed correctly. The seams should be facing the front of the car, as forces applied will push on the posterior portion of the bushing, so solid rubber at this point is necessary.

Replace the stoneguard and the two bushing clamps and be certain all bolts line up. Any misalignment will need to be corrected by maneuvering the sway bar in the front bushings.

Jeff Alton · 01-03-2005, 08:19 AM

My bet is that it is the torsion bar rubbing. Here is a test you can do. Find or makes a couple of thin shims to put between the crossmember and the bottom of the torsion bar end cap. This will recenter the torsion bar in the hole in the a arm and crossmember. If it stops the noise, you have it figured out. To fix it you can weld a small bead on the bottom of the torsion bar end cap to recenter the bar or you can replace the a arm bushings with an aftermarket product.

Hope this helps, Jeff

fuelie600 · 01-03-2005, 09:46 AM

Thanks Tony~!

JimJa43 · 01-03-2005, 10:20 AM

Assuming the noise is a bushing, place your fingers on each bushing in turn while a helper bounces the car. You'll feel it, no question.

...and, thanks Tony.

Jim

LakeCleElum · 01-03-2005, 10:34 AM

Actually, the noise doesn't come from the bushing. It's the end of the sway bar hitting the strut, It even dented in the sheet metal of the dust cover of the strut on mine. The worn bushing is allowing lateral movement of the sway bar......

Tony - Thax for the email copy of your fix!!!!!!!

stealthn · 01-03-2005, 09:38 PM

Jeff,

I'm not sure I understand what you are saying? Mine started squeeking 2 weeks after I had the bushings replace and the car lowered. I guess I'll have to get under and have a look, but it's way too cold now even for the garage....

jpahemi · 03:08 AM

Tony:
Do you have any pics showing how you attached the clamp to the sway bar; how did you keep them from sliding down the bar when you tightened the turn buckle?
Regards,
J.P.

tonythetarga · 01-04-2005, 08:42 AM

That was a bit tricky as it did slip a few times. The clamp is two halves bolted together and I do not have a picture of it apart. If I ever do it again I will use a cable clamp (Crosby or similar type) and tighten it down hard and then put the other clamp behind it so it won't slip. Make sure you protect the finish from damage to avoid future rusting or pitting. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful with your question.