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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MESA AZ
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What to look for in a 3.3 930?
I have been searching, and could not find the specific information. My dad is looking at a 79 930 and I am trying to get some information for him on some common things he should look for. He is planning on getting a PPI before purchase, but before he spends the money on one he wants to see what he can check out for himself. Any help is appreciated, and if you have links to threads with good info those would help too. Thanks very much!
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1967 912 2.7 1977 MGB (bright yellow) 1985 Honda Spree Moped (great for towing rollerbladers) A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish. |
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You're probably better off asking this question on 911turbo.com Forum as there are significantly more 930 enthusiasts there.
However, the obvious things to check are visual, such as:- Any bolt-on mods? Has the wastegate been modified with a bigger boost spring? If so, has the appropriate fuel enrichment mods been made? Does the engine have an aftermarket Intercooler? Does it have the OEM Turbo, or a larger K27 unit? Does it have an aftermarket header/exhaust system? The best check you can do is a compression and leak-down test to ensure the engine internals are OK, but this is typically covered off in the PPI. Good luck!
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Merv '89 911 Turbo Cab Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
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Thanks WydRyd, anybody else have any info?
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1967 912 2.7 1977 MGB (bright yellow) 1985 Honda Spree Moped (great for towing rollerbladers) A flute without holes, is not a flute. A donut without a hole, is a Danish. |
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Look for 78` or newer . Be careful with euro grey market cars with poor conversions . Stock is best as far as value appreciation during ownership goes . But remember that modified cars are great and more fun to drive(if done right) . The 1989 model has a much better tranny (5spd G50) . And most important have the PPI done by an experienced porsche mechanic . Someone (mechanic) with limited or no porsche experience will not know what to look for and possibly miss an important costly problem .
Kurt Williams
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Never drive faster than your gaurdian angel can fly. 82 SC w/965S eng and G50 6:1 hp/w ratio 72 911t 2.6 twin plug and 72' 911t 57k orig 1 own miles 65/66 912 1 owner 76k orig 01' Aston Martin DB7 V12 Vantage Coupe 6spd |
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Lurkasaurus
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: SK, Canada
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Make sure it hasn't been in a serious accident. Many of these cars went off the road backwards on their maiden voyage and were improperly repaired. I think that's the most important thing to have checked - by an experienced Porsche bodyshop.
Of course a PPI by an experienced Porsche shop is a must - make sure they do leakdown and compression tests.
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Tony '77 930 "Objects in mirror are losing" "Oh cock..." - James May |
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Check for Rust especially around the windshield and lights. I know it might be a little rarer on the 78 and newer models, but I have seen several with it. Also if there is anyway to check for wheel bearing condition, brakes ($$). Also make sure you get a compression test and leak down test done. I wouldn't buy without.
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Brian BLK 79-930 |
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The turbos don't handle high mileage like the SC's and Carrera's do. You could figure an engine rebuild at 60,000 miles. Clutches don't last as long either
As with any Porsche, good service records will add quite a lot to the value. I bought my 79 930 two years ago for $22,500. I bought it knowing it would need an engine rebuild in the not too distant future. It also had a lot of mods that I would have done anyway. It has never been in an accident, but it had had the color changed (I talked to the painter before purchase to confirm condition).
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2014 Cayman S (track rat w/GT4 suspension) 1979 930 (475 rwhp at 0.95 bar) |
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I am also looking seriously at 930's and am interested at the 60K miles rebuild issue.
Surely these cars should be taken on an individual basis as with Carreras, in that some Carreras needed a rebuild at less than 60K (worn valve guides) and some can continue for +200K miles. The leakdown test will tell exhaust valve wear? As for other wear, I was under the impression that the blocks/internals for these 930's were tracked at 800HP and so 3-400 hp is comparitively detuned. I also understand that they are high HP engines and so will have a shorter life than the equivalent N/A engine (SC) Apart from the Compression test which if uneventfull would not lead to a leakdown test (no need?) what other tests would tell you if an engine rebuild is nearby or in 20-30K miles time? If I am missinformed please dont flame me, I am genuinely interested in what to look for or expect. I currently have my eye on an '89 930 with 65k miles - hence the interest and concern!. It is from an established sports car dealership so should the dealer already have the comp. test etc. at hand? Should I treat it with the same suspicion as if from a private seller? Any info appreciated rgd Ben PS sorry to hijack the thread a bit
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Check the passenger seat for skidmarks?
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Quote:
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I don't know where this "60kmiles rebuild" desinformation came from but I firmly believe it's incorrect. 930 engine will hold as well as SC engine, probably little better as they don't rev as much (peak power comes @ 5500 RPM) so their cranks have less revolutions per mile covered.
Second, ROW 930 are better cars....they have 40hp extra, no horrible thermal exchangers (and thus less thermal strain on engine), hi-flow CIS, H4 lights, lighter bumpers etc. Isues with gray-import 930 in USA are probably connected to federalization process and other factors (passing visual emission checks etc) which I know little about. If I was offered legal and roadworthy NA and ROW 930 in same original condition I would pick ROW every time. As far as car-to-car somparision, ROW are better in all differing aspects. What to check if shopping for one? All usual things you check on SC plus some aditional stuff: 1. Clonking noise when rapidly pressing the accellerator (bypass valve gaskets shot). 2. Boost spikes (bad wastegate) 3. Exhaust leaks. 4. Oily head/cylinder gaskets (= uneven cylinder mating surface due to too many heat cycles) 5. Oil smoke on deccel and idle (= shot turbo bearings or worn valve guides) 6. Crunch on 3:rd gear shift (synchros worn) 7. Clutch chatter (rubber dampening worn) All other stuff is exactly as with any other 911....if they have been in accident, if oil-tubes are crushed etc. So don't be afraid...it's not a magical car, it's merely a 911 with ~low-comp SC engine and turbocharger added. Some pieces are more expensive but it's really quite dependable...I would say at least as dependable as SC. It doesn't have measle 911 brakes, no spinky 915 gearbox than needs rebuild every second week, no high-reving machine either. I sold mine with 153kmiles, engine has never been opened except for Carrera tensioners.
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Thank you for your time, Last edited by beepbeep; 01-09-2005 at 05:46 AM.. |
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Thanks for the info Goran B- I will copy and print that for later reference.
There are a few issues that USA cars have over European cars- Generally I would say they have more options fitted as standard that were perhaps special orders on ROW cars. Also, generally the roads in the States are straighter and smoother than European roads and traffic less (%-wise). Now I know some of you americans are gonna paste pics of twisty roads/6lanes of traffic etc etc, but unless you have also driven through Europe extensively then save it If the USA cars have lived in a dry climate then there is a good chance that they have also suffered less 'rot' than ROW cars. Price - $/Euro, also makes it very attractive to buy in the USA at the moment ![]() Thanks Ben
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I bought my grey market 930 about a year and a half ago. Didn't care if it was usa or row. I bought the nicest one that I found. I have put approx 7k on it during this time. The only problem I've had is what I thought was a fuel pump or relay problem. Turns out the previous owner had installed a hidden kill swithch, wired directly to the rear fuel pump. That switch had failed. According to the shops that I've dealt with, the 930 has one of the best warranty records of all Porsches. I say buy one and have fun. Buy the best you can afford. Mine has 50k on it and won't need a rebuild at 65k. That's the hp guys wanting more and need an excuse to get into the engine. Have fun and beware of the trailing throttle oversteer. Cheers.
Steve
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