Rust repair pics

cubby911T · cubby911T's Garage

Hi everyone....just got these pics from my Body Shop and thought you might enjoy seeing them. The front suspension pan (+ surrounding area) and RH battery box on my 70 911T were badly rusted (sorry I don't have "before" pics, but take my word for it!). These pics show the new pan and box welded into place - the first few shots show the work before the black sealant paint was applied, the last few after.

Enjoy!

Matt

cubby911T · cubby911T's Garage

** Self-bump ** I was hoping for a couple comments on perceived quality of work by way of the above pics....maybe no one really cares

LOL!! Thanks for lookin', though

Shuie · 12-03-2004, 04:17 PM

cubby, it looks like they did a real nice job!

jpnovak · 12-03-2004, 04:32 PM

Looks good. Now bolt u pthat suspension and drive! Have the shop fix any other rust while they are there.

Brother · 12-03-2004, 04:56 PM

Cubby, what did you use to patch up the rust? POR 15, Naval Jelly, or something else?

cubby911T · cubby911T's Garage

thanks, guys

. Brother - don't know precisely what the body shop used to coat their work, but they didn't just patch.....they cut, and cut, and cut some more then welded in a replacement front suspension pan (from Mid America Motorworks - AKA Tweeks). Then they sprayed some sort of industrial Zinc-based paint to seal it up. It's not POR15, but I hope it keeps any new rust at bay.

I did buy a quart of POR15 for any other minor rust spots I might find myself....I hear it's the best stuff out there.

Jim Richards · 12-03-2004, 06:26 PM

Alright Matt!

azasadny · azasadny's Garage

Matt,

Looks like they did a very good job, bet you'll feel better knowing that's all new metal up there!

Panzer909 · Panzer909's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by cubby911T
thanks, guys . Brother - don't know precisely what the body shop used to coat their work, but they didn't just patch.....they cut, and cut, and cut some more then welded in a replacement front suspension pan (from Mid America Motorworks - AKA Tweeks). Then they sprayed some sort of industrial Zinc-based paint to seal it up. It's not POR15, but I hope it keeps any new rust at bay.

I did buy a quart of POR15 for any other minor rust spots I might find myself....I hear it's the best stuff out there.

Use POR-15 like its going out of style. I'm currently doing a ground up resto on a TR-6 and that stuff is my best friend. Just don't get so much as a drop on your skin - it will stay there for a while if it does. Ask me how I know

Great work and nice car, by the way!

Zeke · 12-04-2004, 05:31 PM

Hey, Matt, I just saw this or I would have been the first one to tell you that is nice workmanship. I can see little things that impress me. Went thru this very thing doing it myself as many others here have done. It's a medium tough job for the initiated. Not one for a first timer, but not impossible. What separates the real good work from the rest is evident in what I see there.

And don't worry about "noboby cares." Sometimes we don't see the post for a few hours, you know?

cubby911T · cubby911T's Garage

Zeke - thanks

. Yeah, this was definitely a job for the pro's...I have zero body/welding knowledge or experience.

Panzer - yes, I feel MUCH better knowing that there's new metal up there. Shame on me for not discovering the extent of rust up there before getting the car.....oh, well - bygones. She's my baby now, so we're gonna make her right.

cubby911T · cubby911T's Garage

Oops! Just realized it was azasadny I should have been addressing (instead of Panzer) on the last post. Sorry! Thanks to you too, though, Panzer

- will indeed use the POR15 like it's going out of style!!!

billyboy · 01-09-2005, 08:01 AM

When you weld the pan in, do you just weld back into the drilled out spot weld holes? Also, is there a special drill available for drilling out spot welds? Thanks

Shuie · 01-09-2005, 08:11 AM

I drilled the spot welds out in the very front clip, but used a cutting wheel and a angle grinder to get everthing else out from the longitudinal sections of the front of the tub. It took me a solid day of grinding, cutting, and drilling to remove the old pan.

Zeke · 01-09-2005, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by billyboy
When you weld the pan in, do you just weld back into the drilled out spot weld holes? Also, is there a special drill available for drilling out spot welds? Thanks

Good question. If you drill out from the front side of what you are doing and go all the way through the spot weld (hard not to), your holes will be on the back side when you fit the new piece. Yes, you can weld these holes up attaching the new piece, if you can now get to the backside. These are called plug welds. Be sure to pull the pieces together tightly.

I bought a hand punch for about $20 off fleaBay to make dozens of holes to weld through in this very manner through the new piece (now frontside) into the old where that was easier.

There is a special drill bit that drills a smaller pilot hole through the weld, but has a stepped larger cutter that cuts the weld out trying to not go all the way through. They wear out quickly and are difficult to sharpen. Not individually cheap either.

I bought a Drill Doctor (about $80) to sharpen bits. However, you can buy a LOT of drill bits in bulk for $80.

Size? Well, the spot welds are different sizes and many are kinda deformed, so they aren't all that round. You have to choose a bit that will reach the outer part of the weld all around. Can't go wrong with a 1/4" bit, but that will seem large in many places.

You would do well to buy some 1/8th" bits for pilot holes and a center punch to get them going where you want. Follow with the 1/4" and see if you can drill just the top piece and not go through. It takes patience and a light touch.

All drill bits are not sharpened at the same angle at the tip. The flatter they are (AFA the 1/4" are concerned), the better they work in sheet metal of this sort.

Jandrews · 01-09-2005, 11:18 AM

Cubby,

Any chance you can give us a ballpark estimate on what it costs to have this professionally done here in the midwest?

Thanks,

JA

jchatfield · 01-14-2005, 07:26 AM

What & where was yor body shop? What did they charge?

thanks

stevef · stevef's Garage

Equally important as using POR15 liberally is to make sure you have adequate drain holes from the cavities under the fuel tank support. You then need to shoot in.....no deluge the inside cavity with some sort of rust inhibitor oil.

cubby911T · cubby911T's Garage

Jim & John - sorry I've been negligent on replying to your questions.....

I used Bud's Body Shop in Elkhart, IN (my regular Porsche mechanic referred me to them). Their rate is $50/hr and the rust repair took about 24 hours (so like $1200). That took care of the labor for replacement of the suspension pan and reinforcement of the nearby structure. They did a bit of fabricating on adjacent areas which extended beyond what the new pan metal could cover.

I bought the suspension pat kit (included the pan, a support bracket for the fuel tank, and a tank seal) for appx.$240 from Mid America Motorworks (based in S. Illinois - www.mamotorworks.com). Also, "while they were in there" I had the body shop replace the LH battery box (rusty), fuel tank ($270 from MA Motorworks), shocks, struts, hood struts, and got a full alignment.

The whole shabang totaled about $2700 including the add'l labor for the other items.

billyboy · 01-14-2005, 11:06 AM

Mc Master Carr sells special drill bits for this type of work. They are fluted only a short way up the shank. They are called"stub length sheet metal drills" and are avaiable in 7/64,1/8,#30,9/64,5/32,3/16, and 1/4". Price is .73 each to 1.29 each in packs of 12.