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powdercoating engine tin

I got one of the cheap powdercoating kits and thought Id try it out on some engine tin.

In the oven.

after.



I took these off my parts car and it really made a big difference. I'll be doing the fan and housing next. Ill probably just blast them and try the clear.

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Old 12-28-2004, 03:29 PM
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what brand and model # ? where did you get it ? post more pics.thanks Rob
Old 12-28-2004, 03:36 PM
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Nice Mark ...I was so eyeing the HF kit when I was in the store last week! I'll have to build an oven in the shop one day...big enough to do a fender!

Last edited by MotoSook; 12-28-2004 at 03:58 PM..
Old 12-28-2004, 03:45 PM
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I got the powder and gun from caswell plating. Its the same one they sell at harbor freight. I spent about $140 for the gun and 6 different colors of powder. I already had the blast cabinet and compressor. The oven was from work.

I had to do one piece twice. It was kind of thin. It was definatly harder to blast off the second time. I have access to some bigger ovens so I'll probably do my suspension when I get to that part of my car.
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Old 12-28-2004, 03:47 PM
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I have powder coated at least 100 items in the past year for myself and friends. Be sure that you have a dedicated oven for this process. good air flow in the area is a must. I have just converted (gutted and used sheet metal to line the insid) a discarded freezer into a large PC oven for large items. A few safety items: Use breathing filters when doing the powder application. preheat the items to be PC. and watch the flow time and the cure time very close. Also be very sure that the items to be PC are super clean. Powder Coating is not difficult but the prep. is the beginning of what can be a great finished product. Don't be in a hurry.
Old 12-28-2004, 04:01 PM
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dmcummins - great work! i look forward to seeing the fan and housing the way you described it. i plan to do the same for my fan - blast and clear - no colors. curious if the clear pc has a yellow cast.
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Old 12-28-2004, 05:50 PM
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We did a blast and clear to a fan recently and it looks good. The fan casting was the big issue. Once you clean it up, the casting is very porous, so don't expect perfection. Some fans may be better than others. I'll post a picture (or the owner might post it) if I have time.

I also saw a bead blasted fan recently, no clear on it. It looked like the one we cleared w/o the shine.

The fan won't look exactly like a machined metal surface, but it's pretty.
Old 12-28-2004, 07:47 PM
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I'm gatherin' up my stuff for a powder coatin' 69T cuttin' beer drinkin' party....
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Old 12-29-2004, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by dhoward
I'm gatherin' up my stuff for a powder coatin' 69T cuttin' beer drinkin' party....
I demand an invite to said party!
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Old 12-29-2004, 12:17 PM
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Did someone say oven big enough for a fender?

ST Project: DIY home powder coating - tutorial on PC and doorframe restoration(pics)
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Old 12-29-2004, 12:23 PM
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A point of reference is if the base metal is porous or has deep scratches, gouges, dents and the likes. The powder coating only has the capacity to "fill in" these imperfections only as good as a paint would. The PC in principal works as a paint substitute but only much more durable. If ypu were going to paint a metal item you would do a great deal of prep. work. Powder Coating is the same, No bondo, old paint, oil, finger prints and things like that. If the prep. is done in a half a$$ manner your results are the same. Hope this helps.
Old 12-29-2004, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by jpnovak
Did someone say oven big enough for a fender?

ST Project: DIY home powder coating - tutorial on PC and doorframe restoration(pics)
Oh yeah...I remember
Old 12-29-2004, 04:38 PM
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SOUK, If you want to do a fender you will have to do the entire car. That is the only way to match the color on all the pieces. No Way!!!
There is no primer to sand and get even, base coat and clear coat to level with block sanding. And think of the size of the oven to cure all these body pieces. Your fender question must be a worm for a big fish to go after in the real world. Powder coating as we know it today, is not a viable finish for cars today.
Old 12-29-2004, 07:44 PM
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I have a coater that can fit a car in his oven..
Old 12-29-2004, 07:48 PM
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Thought Id practice alittle more. I had these old valve covers in a box of extra parts. I got some orange peel, but it looks better than before.



And I prefer Crown Royal. And the sawsall has been purchsed for the party. All are invited.
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:28 AM
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I am going to look into building an oven like jpnovak in the above thread. I'll probably be doing some suspension pieces next and they wont fit into my small oven.
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:42 AM
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Did you sand the powdercoat off the letters or put a coat of silver over the powdercoat?
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Old 01-16-2005, 09:48 AM
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I sanded the powercoat off.
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Old 01-16-2005, 12:11 PM
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dmcummins:
The process I have usedis to blast and clean the cover. Heat the cover to 300 degrees, remove the cover from the oven and apply the powder while the cover is hot. This melts the powder on to the cover. Now flip the cover with the letters faceing down on the sand paper and sand lightly to remove the melterd powder from the high spots(letters).
By now the cover has cooled, so place back in the oven for a few mins. and reheat. Remove and shoot it entire cover with a high gloss clear. Now follow the standard baking procedures. This will give the letters the protection of a powder coating on the letters and they will not change color. Hope this helps.
Old 01-17-2005, 11:25 AM
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I've got a bottle of Crown in the back of my truck....
Winter provisions, you know?

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Old 01-17-2005, 11:30 AM
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