Nope, not a wax. 3M perfect-it is a scratch removing polish that is designed to be used with a power buffer and a FOAM pad.
They almost insist you use their foam pad for best results, no sheep skin or terrycloth.
It works great but is a pain to clean off the residue after it gets in every crack and crevice. The car does have to be washed and waxed after application.
It aint cheap either, I think I paid about $25 for a bottle but that was at a professional paint shop, prolly had a higher mark-up than at a FLAPS. They have two versions, for dark paint and light paint.
In an attempt to un-hyjack the thread, I'm going to buy a clay bar on the way home tonight :)

3M perfect-it (?)sounds similar in results to the oft-used 3M Imperial Hand Glaze.....good stuff.

Wil

aahhhhh ok,.... cool, i'd like to take a look at your car on the run saturday, your confirmed right? (sammyg2)

my meguires works great and completely eliminates the scratches but will not hold that look more than a few days...... when it is done it looks like you can put your hand into the paint, its leaves an awesome finish......

and since i started this thread, high jacking is welcome...... no worries.
and the clay bar is a great- easy idea!

Alex

I've used the clay bar as well with nice smooth paint afterwards. I have used on my Arctic Silver '97 911 and the paint was really smooth afterwards! I also have used a bit on my '70 black 911 but am more cautious with the darker colors because I believe it can scratch if you're not overly cautious with the amount of lube you use and the frequency of using a clean spot of clay.

I personally will not use the clay bar again on my black car until the paint starts to feel rough again....will be awhile since it's always garaged! I personally would not get in the habit of using the clay bar more than a couple times a year until you are sure about how to use it ensuring it's not scratching the paint. The lube you use with the clay bar makes the paint very shiny so be sure to realize that this isn't from the clay bar itself.

--Dan

tips:
the orig. post said 'elbow grease' - don't use force and DO use lubrication. Meguiars tells you how and when to use clay on their web site

polish means different things to different companies....

some of the scratch removal chemicals actually get down into the scratch and round out the corners or jagged edges by filling; some have chemicals that alter the refractive index making a scratch much less visible to the eye

dan:
good stuff,..... agreed and thanks.... as you,... mine has been sleeping in the garage since painted, this lil project was NOT a necessity, just something to tinker with. was fun and easy.

Randy:

the term "elbow grease" was a figure of speech, much lube was used and properly applied pressure hence the great results... but i appreciate the comment.

Here's the total treatment for you- Dawn wash (removes old wax), clay bar rubbed fore/aft on the flat surfaces, up/down on vertical surfaces(lubed w/ dawn wash spritzer), 3m Swirl Mark Remover for dark cars(SMR) to take out the "sunburst" haze marks with a porter cable polisher and yellow pad, wash again, P21S Gloss Enhancing Paint Cleanser (GEPC) with a white pad on the PC, wash again, then Zaino Z2 polish although I think carnuba based stuff works better on black surfaces (fills in any remaining crazing which dark cars amplify), Z7 wash if using Zaino Products, and repeat about 2 more times. Only use microfiber towels and NEVER reuse clay or a towel that you've dropped on the ground.

Stand back and be prepared to drool on yourself-

"figure of speech"

- sure thing - I just didn't want the thread to go too long and somebody get the wrong ideas.

Also, I would test for surface irregularities before using a clay bar - see the Meguairs site. And... besides not using it after dropping it (or cutting off any part that did touch), remmebr the clay picks up stuff and that cumulates - so replace it at some point.

great point randy, i used the term loosely and with something as important as our beloved paint jobs i shouldnt have,... whew, thanks good save!

If you get an orbital polisher th spenending two hours claybaring is a waste of time. I just did my car with the Porter Cable and Menzerna polishes. The paint couldn't be smoother or deeper. I'll leave claybaring for removing overspray.

beg to differ- clay will remove stuff that an orbital will drag thru the paint or not remove at all. IF the orbital compound is aggressive enuf, probably so. But it takes too aggressive a compound w/ an orbital to remove stuff that clay takes care of w/ little elbow grease...

Alex, if you want to check out my paint on saturday the 10 foot rule applies ;)

The thing to keep in mind is that a great variety od people read the threads on Pelican. Some have great expertise; others are just getting started on whatever. So it is most useful for others if you try to think about how to be clear to everybody - not an easy task.

Note there are nearly 1200 views on this thread.

One tip I got from a detailer is to make sure that you retire your clay after 3-4 uses. The clay picks up dirt from your paint and will eventually start to cause small scratches after many uses.

Alex-
Have you checked out the auto detailing supply on Newport blvd? It's close to your place, on the Northboud side. Can't remember the name, but there is a shop behind it that services Ferarris. They've got clay and all of the "good" stuff.

sammyg2,..... ok the 10 ft rule applies... although i am the LAST person to be judgemental, a p-car is a p-car and a owner is a car lover like me, that is all that i care about, so im sure your ride is nice! no worrries. if wont mention your paint if you dont mention the scent of oil burning from my blackie, she is 30 yrs old but i love her non-the less.

randy, 100% agreed,..... i started this thread last night at midnite and didnt expect some much interest.

Jon,....... i have not checked out the place you mentioned YET,.... but i will now that you mentioned it... and i know exactly where the ferrari place is,....... i might just happen to cruise in! and yes.... the clay is good for a couple of passes then retire it, or use for windows only.

LOL Alex, my car was 100% oil leak free until I developed a leak at the turbo oil drain flange that drops right onto the hot header. I'm gonna be out in the garage tonight fixing that and that will prolly cut into my detailing time (built in excuse there). Hopefully after that I won't be smoking or leaking at all. I just jinxed myself, didn't I ?

ok sammyg2 then "SSHHHH" on my oil leaks and "SSSHHHH" on your paint!

on a serious note.... last night i finished the clay-bar (i did the windows) on the car and it is smooth and clean, no wax yet though.....

what is the best wax i can put on since it has been clay-barred? i have always used the meguires wax #20 but it flakes and is a bit of work,..... i would like a spray on wax that is easy on and easy off and doesnt flake,...... just a thought......... anyone have a thought?

Alex

I like P21S. Originally, I found out about it from Gary Paternak from PCA.org. He's their body / paint specialist. It is pure caranuba, but doesn't have coconut oil and doesn't stain the rubber, if you go over onto rubber. It is also very easy to apply and durable.

Doug

I'd recommend a polish before wax after claybaring. If you want an easy to use product I'd recommend Klasse All in One.

LOVE THE STUFF!