Broken sway bar mount will fail state inspection?
 

I was told one broken rear mount would require $1,000 to fix and unless I did it the car would not pass state inspection. Isn't that A LOT of money to fix the mount?

I didn't think the sway bar is a required piece of safety equipement that must be in order at all times. I understand the public safety importance of proper brakes or headlights--but a sway bar?

Should I just remove the sway bar completely and take it to another wrench? I'm not trying to get around state safety laws, I'm just trying to hold off on this repair until I get a check from Uncle Sam, but I need to register my car.

How much should this repair cost anyway?

I don't know about MD, but up here in the Great White it has to be fixed for safety. Cost me $700 USD ($860 CDN) P & L from G Tek in Toronto in September for replacement of both brackets.

Ian

Good grief the fix is not hard. The updated bracket from a dealer is $72 (and you don't need the updated mount), then they have to weld it on. I wouldn't think that you should pay more than about 2 hours labor for grinding and welding, but I could be wrong.

And, a sway bar isn't even necessary really. just take the thing off. You could take the front and rear sway bars off of your car and drive it around all the time without any problems. I wouldn't want to, but you could.

I'd say that $1000 is a major rip off and the wrench that told you that is trying to pressure you into getting the work done for an inflated price.

I'd be surprised if they even noticed a broken swaybar mount. I know when the mount on my car broke it was hard to see unless you jacked up that side of the car.

I'd go someplace else. Maybe ask here on the board who a good shop is in the Gaithersburg area.

Many early 911's came without a rear bar. The car will understeer a little more than normal but I would do as you suggest, remove the bar and get the car inspected.

I would get a second opinion as well.

The wrench at G Tek said that they had 'trouble' with it. 6 hrs labor. I was not impressed with the bill . . .

Ian

Mine cost me just over $300 on each side. That was at $115/hour. Don't pay $1000! That's insane your instincts are right on.

As long as you're at it definately get the updated part. Or, there is a part from Smart Racing (jerry woods enterprises) that is even better than the improved factory part, and for about the same price. For $1k you should be able to get both done, and have money left over for a 15,000 miles service!

Take it off and fix it if/when you get the new brackets and have a half decent quote to get the welds fixed. Unless you really like to drive at better than 7/10's you'll likely notice the difference but not to the point that it will make your car less fun to drive. I have disconnected my own 22mm rear bar before when I had to let someone else drive the car outside of my presence.

Remove the swaybar and talk to Pari (post on the local NoVA/DC/MD board) about where to get it inspected in G-burg where idiots won't give you the run around. I think there's not many places in the MD burbs that qualify. NoVA/DC/MD board

Thanks so much guys. Man I love this BBS.

115 an hour for labor is insane for something like replacing a mount!

I discovered I had a broken (and missing) rear sway bar mount on my '86 Carrera so I'm in need of a similar repair. From the posts so far I won't worry about driving a while while I search out a good repair place.

My car spent it's life in sunny So Cal (Inland) and shows no signs of rust, if you look at the second picture the remaining metal looks pretty clean and shiny!

This brings me to my question: Who/where is the best place to do this sort of repair? Dealer? Independant Mechanic Shop? Sears (kidding)? Autobody Repair? General welding shop? other?

If anybody lives in the Greensboro,NC area and has a specific suggestion that would be most appreciated!

Thanks,

Warren

For welding under a car I would go to a good muffler shop. Most repair shops won't have a drive-on lift which is needed to ensure the mounts are installed correctly.

I suspect it shouldn't cost much if you tell the welder what to do - much less if you prep the weld area yourself.

$1000 sounds about right at certain dealerships.

Sherwood

Triwave,

Under "Symptoms" you mention "Clunk !"

If that is a typical symptom of this injury I better get under MY car and have a see look ! ;)

man, i do them for an hour labor per side. what a rip-off. unskilled labor costs you.

Buy a welder and a grinder and do it yourself. That's how I did it? Pretty easy stuff.

John

I had mine welded at Andial right after I bought the car and it was about $250, and Andial tends to do stuff at a 20% to 30% premium. It


Muffler shops gas weld everything. This really needs to be MIGed or TIGed.

Just take the bar off until you can get it repaired. There is no reason that you can't drive it. If you drive it hard you should be able to lift the front inside tire atleast 5" off the ground. It makes a great photo op even if it doesn't work very well.

As far as repairing it. Search here and ask here for recommedations on a better quality Porsche shop. This isn't rocket science, but you just need someone who won't screw it up.

Remove the sway bar, do the inspection, no way thay know enough about suspensions. Then with your sticker in place, decide how to fix it.
Ned

Mine cost $50 to have the right one repaired in Denver three years ago. $1000 is a joke!!! It took no time to clean up and weld.
Ben

John - you mentioned doing it yourself ... did you MIG or TIG weld or straight gas? I'm not sure without practice I want this to be the first thing I weld! What did a small welder and grinder run you??

Wayne - I will remove the other side and drive it until I get a chance to stop by a shop or two and get some quotes on repair. I don't see any reason to have to do both sides if the other is good and the brackets are stock do you?

Since I'm getting to that point, what does the repair really involve in terms or parts and supplies? Obviously I need the "U" shaped bracket that cups the bushing. I need to remove what's left of the original mounting tab (if that's the correct description) and weld a new tab to the frame. Is that a generic hunk of metal, or a special pre-sized and formed part from Porsche? I saw a product in a parts magazine that was described as a new and improved rear sway bar mount (by Weltmeister). Is this the way to go or overkill for a stock sway bar? Also, I saw the new and improved mount, but not a plain and original mount...

Thanks,

Warren