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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 937
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Stuck Screw Removal
It's a steel screw stuck (hell, bonded or welded is more like it - from electrolysis?) in the tab of a front '72 lighthousing that is made of some kind of potmetal. Probably been there for 30+ years. I've tried penetrants and I'm about to try heat but I'm worried the potmetal piece will bubble away in flame!
Any tricks ?
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Scott |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 1,113
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Depending on the size of the screw, of course...
You can use a dremel (or drill) to drill a hole (must have a strong bit) as close to the center as possible. Then use an "extractor" bit the same size as the hole you drilled & wrench to get it out. I've had to do this a few times before... Good luck!
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Richard W. Red '70 E, 2.2 White (w/ Red & Blue), '82SC, "Frankenstein" -a bit tweeked |
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Air Medal or two
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: cross roads
Posts: 14,147
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if nothing else drill off the head and pull the part off...you might have more shank to work with.....or impact screw driver..or heat cycle a few times with your favorit flaver of penitrate and then whack it a couple of times then the impact
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D troop 3/5 Air Cav,( Bastard CAV) and 162 Assult Helicopter Co- (Vultures) South of Saigon, U Minh Forest, Delta, and all parts in between |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,528
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the afterburn method works well.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 143
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Try one of those Sears Craftsman extracter sets that Bob Vila is advertising on the TV. They really bite into the head of the screw and can be used with a drill, in a hand screwdiver with interchangable tips, wrench etc.
Is this the big headed screw on the bottom lip? I need one of these for my '72T and can not find them in the host's catalog. My right one is being held in place by the tight fit only. Terry Hastings
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Terry Hastings Baltimore, MD 1972 911T LTHSURVEY@AOL.com |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 937
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Thanks guys. The problem is the "connection" between the two materials - it really seems as if the screw and housing tab are just fused together. I took it to a machine shop thinking they'd have the right bits, extracter, etc - but they said they'd never get the bit to stay on the screw. I was hoping some kind of chemical solution would break the screw free. Guess I'll break out the fire-wrench....
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Scott |
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Slumlord
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Canada
Posts: 4,983
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If you have a welder, run stick weld current through it.
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84 Cab - sold! 89 Cab - not quite done 90C4 - winter beater |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,528
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drill the head off. wedge a screwdriver under the head to keep it from turning while you drill. the caged nut behind it is loose in it's cage.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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Is the problem the front Turn signal bucket? If so the screws insert into speed nut type clips on the fender. You can cut them from the rear and pull the light housing out. Then grind the bolt flush and drill from teh back side starting with small bits and working up. it would be easier if you could pull the fender to get to it. I think the battery box may be in they way to cut the front screw. you could probably get to the back one.
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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