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Engine drop.Clutch change.

Time to do the clutch on my 88 3.2 Carrera. (1st to 2nd gear change notchy under hard acceleration and clutch pedal spongy). The most I have done so far is re-build the brakes last summer. Is this job beyond me? Any info will be much appreciated. I really want to do the job myself so I can get more in tune with the car. The main part that bothers me is dropping the engine down especially at an angle with the back end jacked up, then replacing the engine at the same angle. Is it ok to drop the engine on to the exchangers? I am planning to do this job soon so any info please. Where can I get a Bentley manual in the UK. Simon.

Old 01-22-2005, 02:04 PM
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I have exactly the same job planned for the very near future.
But I will be dropping the engine and transmission as one complete unit as it's not much extra work, and my driveshafts need changing anyway.
It also makes it a lot easier to refit the gearbox to the engine - especially if you've not got the clutch centred correctly and have to re-align it.

Do not support the engine on the heat exchangers. Use something soft and large that wont slip to spread the load on the case.

For a Bentley try Ebay

Best of luck
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Old 01-22-2005, 02:14 PM
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Many thanks for the reply. I have read before to drop both engine and g-box at the same time. Do you think it would be an idear to remove the exchanges. Simon
Old 01-22-2005, 02:22 PM
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Only if you're changing them.
The reason not to raise here is the load is transfered to the heads and thus the head studs at right angles to the case.
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1984 3.2 Carrera

Impact Bumpers on track: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4qbFNkdD2o
Old 01-22-2005, 02:31 PM
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lowering it with the exchangers sitting on a something like a 2'x2' piece of steel plate, or plywood bolted to the jack is common practice. it won't hurt anything. all my extra engines sit on their exchangers on the floor or bench. '87 and up require the engine and trans to be removed together. there is a release fork cross-shaft that has to be removed out the side of the bellhousing in order to separate the two units, and it would be very difficult to do in the car, in or out, but i'm sure someone has tried it in iraq somewhere.
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Old 01-22-2005, 03:39 PM
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I think this is the way to go. Do I need a tool to centre the clutch plate if I have the box out. Simon
Old 01-22-2005, 03:57 PM
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yes, you need a lineup spline. it makes putting the trans back on less of a struggle.
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Old 01-22-2005, 04:05 PM
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Wow another myth exploded (for me anyway)

Yes a tool is very helpful but you could probably use a universal kit much cheaper than the dedicated one. I've got a plastic one in my toolbox with interchangeable ends and sleeves that cost me a tenner and I've used hundreds of times to good effect on all other car makes. Just make sure it is suitable for pilot bearings

Something like this one : http://www.concepttools.co.uk/Products/ViewProduct.aspx?ProductID=1291&RangeNo=31
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Impact Bumpers on track: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4qbFNkdD2o
Old 01-22-2005, 04:16 PM
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I have added that page to favourites. Many thanks. I thought the Porsche one was splined.
Old 01-22-2005, 04:25 PM
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Yeah I think they are. Thats why they're expensive.
Although I have been known to be wrong.....
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Old 01-22-2005, 04:38 PM
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old 928 pilot shafts are the same size as the G50 splines and pilot bearing, not that that will help much. they wore out a lot and i usually had one around in the days before i went strictly 911 aircooled. another option if you're looking for a plastic spline. 930s are the same too.
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Last edited by john walker's workshop; 01-22-2005 at 05:53 PM..
Old 01-22-2005, 05:50 PM
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You might try changing your trans fluid to Mobil 1 to see if that gets rid of the notchyness. Also, as far as you clutch pedal goes, have you bled the clutch slave cylinder?

Cheers, James
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Old 01-22-2005, 06:09 PM
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Not yet, have asked the Porsche garage the same question. But he is convinced it’s the clutch. I have changed the G-box fluid. To be honest I think the clutch is ok. But it’s the 1st to 2nd gear change under hard acceleration that concerns me and once the clutch pedal went to the floor and I had to lift the pedal up with my foot. Never did it again.
Old 01-22-2005, 06:21 PM
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pedal to the floor is indicative of air in the clutch hydraulic system. temporary fix is to bleed the system. permanent fix is to replace the clutch slave and master cylinder, and bleed. the problem may be clutch related, but it may not be the clutch itself. clutches usually slip or chatter when they're used up. get another shop to give you an opinion.
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Old 01-22-2005, 09:33 PM
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John, what about the rubber top hat part of the clutch can this become brittle and give symptoms. Simon.
Old 01-22-2005, 09:37 PM
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G50s have a big rubber hub that rarely gives trouble.
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Old 01-22-2005, 09:39 PM
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Nice one, will try cylinder. Cheers.

Old 01-22-2005, 09:45 PM
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