Help me shop for metal working tools

[911SCfanatic]

Want to do some basic body work--nothing too intense--just pulling out dents (not on any exerior body panels) and straightening out miscellaneous flanges (trunk and hood seal area, for example). My '72 basically looks like a little kid went crazy with a small hammer around in the engine bay and under hood areas. There must be 50 dents.

I was thinking about buying a cheap stud welder/slide hammer set from Harbor Freight:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=3223
or
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=8878

and a basic metal working set, which seems really expensive to me:

http://www.tinmantech.com/html/kits.html

Any thoughts on this?

[feelyx]

I would start with the basics first,

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=31277

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46781

then sorta work into metal shrinking....

I started at a early age by pounding out metal then belt sanding it smooth then filling. So... on second thought... Maybe I shouldn't be teachin'.

Tim in Sac

[Zeke]

Bill, you don't need a shot bag unless you're gonna make parts and those are mostly for aluminum anyway. You have to hit 18 ga. steel pretty hard and the bag won't last long. You need a body hammer and a dolly. Many dollies are home made for the task at hand. Any piece of steel that has a nice ring to it when you strike it is a candidate for a dolly. You can grind your own shape.

A metal worker's friend is heat. You would do well to have an oxy acetylene torch to use. Some of the areas you indicate that are dented are tough to access from the back for your dolly. A dent made with a hammer as you describe can be pulled out with heat and cold water. Some can do it with a propane torch and a block of dry ice.

You will need a hand held grinder. A 4 or 5 inch angle grinder is a nice starter unit.

The stud welder is OK but I use my welding torch to attach a piece of rod and then pull on it with a slide hammer with some visegrips on the end. I threw that screw-in thing away. I don't want to make holes and then make little volcanos all over my car.

And there are many videos on the market to watch. Williams Low Buck Tools is a source for Ron Covell's metalworking videos. But, these are metalworking, not bodywork, although many principles are shared by the two disciplines.

[911SCfanatic]

Well, I ended up buying this set:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ct...temnumber=31277
...and spent a couple of hours banging out some dents and straightening. Let me just say this: SWEET! I never knew pounding sheet metal could be so relaxing and satisfying. Next thing is to get the video you recommended, Zeke. Also, how do I use heat to reshape panels?

[asphaltgambler]

I like Eastwood company as most of their products/ tools seem to be geared slightly above the 'average' home mechanic. I've bought a few tools and chemicals and was pleased at the quality.

[jpnovak]

You can shrink metal with heat followed by cold. Remember the dent is where the metal is stretched. you will need a good heat source like an oxy/acetylene torch. MAPP gas may do it but you will need more cold. Its the temperature differential that will shrink the metal.

Heat the metal to red hot. Only heat the dent and a small area around it. Then simply place a cold, wet rag on top. The metal should return to almost its original shape. Keep a container of ice water to continually cool the rag. it does not need to be dripping wet. Only place the cold on top of the dent.

Have fun with your metal shaping. yes it can be quite relaxing.

[John Kelly]

Jamie,

The best shrinking techniques are where metal never turns red...if anything at all perhaps slightly blue before quenching. If the metal is heated to red and quenched it will be slightly work-hardened, and therefore more difficult to hammer and dolly. The way you describe will work, and is a common method, but try less heat. I think you will find, as I did, that less is better. Using a shrinking disc, I've learned that the metal only needs to steam when quenched in order to shrink. This method allows you to stretch and shrink many times in the same area if you want to without any apparent work-hardening. Here are two albums on shrinking with a disc that you might find interesting:

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980124046566

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980121727059

John www.ghiaspecialties.com