Very Bad News...I screwed up...big time.

[J Smith]

Working on my suspension rebuild. I'm installing the 28 hollow rear torsion bars (used, but new to me). Well, I thought I had it in correctly, but I had it in backwards. I thought the markings should be on the outside, nope, there supposed to be on the inside. 46 splines on one end (inside), 47 on the other (outside). I forced the 47 splines into the 46 spline hole.

Please dont' call me names, because I feel like a complete a** hole. I'm really not that stupid, I swear. I just thought it was a tight fit. It seemed to line up fine. 46 and 47 splines are real close to being the same, and it seemed right. I know I should have checked more thoroughly, but I didn't. I tried to get the correct end in after I finally got it back out (which wasn't easy), but it won't go in at all, even with persuasion.

What are my options now? I have inner splines that are all screwed up, and I know I've read that replacing the torsion bar tube is major surgery, and really has to be done right. I've blown my budget this winter, and really can't afford this right now.

Is there hope for this situation? I'm about to go play on the highway.....

[Chuck Moreland]

Hold on there hoss. Put the gun down. All is not lost.

The size markings at the end of the tbar DO go on the outside. The large splined end goes to the inside.

If you have a fitment issue, you probably have bars for a 915 instead of the g50 your car is equipped with. They are not the same.

[J Smith]

Chuck, I'm positive that they are the ones for the G-50, same length, and same spline count. I can get the one end of the bar to slip into the outer torsion bar cover on the workbench, so the spline count is correct. I think the 915 bars are 40/44, so if it was that, it wouldn't fit in either end.

Funny thing is, the L & R markings along with the number (28) DO go towards the inside of the car. That's what had me confused. Now that I look at them, even the stock bars that I pulled out have the L & R mark on the inside. Bastard car.

I'm on the process of working the correct end into the torsion bar tube...not easy, but it is going. Hmmmmm, I think i see some rigs that want to play chicken out on the road....

[Chuck Moreland]

What brand are your torsion bars?

Factory, sway-a-way (powerbarz), and sanders all have the size markings on the outside.

I would refrain from using any force to put these parts together.

Did you try re-installing the original bars?

Have you dissassembled the other side of the car?

[rattlsnak]

How did you "force" the bar in? With excessive big hammer force, or what?

[J Smith]

Alright, I did have the right side in the first time (and of course so did Chuck, why would I doubt him?). I misunderstood the smaller end sliding right into the outer torsion bar as a proper fit. I actually counted the splines, and there are 47 on the side with the markings, and 46 on the other. I think I have it correct now.

Chuck, they are hollow sway-aways (powerbarz), and they seem to have a tighter fit than the stock ones. Other side of the car feels the same way.

It didn't require a a ton of force to get them in, but I did have to tap on them with a hammer, I certainly couldn't just slide them in.

I feel like a dumba**.

[Rot 911]

Hey just be glad things turned out ok. We have all made dumb mistakes here, no matter how much experience we may have. I tend to make more than others!

[89911]

I've done 3 sets of Sway a Ways on G 50 cars and they all needed the splines to be filed for them the "mesh" with the spines in the torsion tube. I used a flat file and kept working them until the fit with slight resistance.

[turbo6bar]

Originally posted by Smithers

I feel like a dumba**.

I Don't think so. Wanna be a REAL dumba**? Flip those torsion bars and drive them in with a pneumatic jackhammer. Now that would make you a dumba**.

[J Smith]

Originally posted by 89911
I've done 3 sets of Sway a Ways on G 50 cars and they all needed the splines to be filed for them the "mesh" with the spines in the torsion tube. I used a flat file and kept working them until the fit with slight resistance.

Thanks for this info. Factory bars will slide right in, but the sway-aways are really tight. I was wondering if it's ok to take a little off the circumference to make it easier to slide in. Now I know.

Thanks guys.

[sammyg2]

Once again the incredibly knowledgeable people on this board come through.

i can't count how many times someone here has saved me money or grief or both.
Big atta-boy Chuck.

[911pcars]

I experienced the same situation fitting factory bars to SAW adjustable spring plates (outer end). The circumference of the factory TB splines must be reduced so it slips into the internal splines of the spring plate.

Even though the SAWs kinda fit with a few hammer taps, I would suggest reducing the spline OD so it just slips in (with lube) at both ends. After a few hundred or thousand miles, you might want to readjust the ride height and you'll want them to slide out fairly easily. This is one area you want to avoid major surgery.

If the bar is stuck inside, You can access from the opposite end of the torsion bar tube and persuade it with a long pipe and BFH of choice. This method only works if only one side is stuck.

Sherwood

[J Smith]

All is good.

Shaved down the outer splines on the sway away torsion bars (just a hair), and things seem to be going together much better now. I should have asked a question when I first realized these bars were so tight....I could have saved myself some serious grief.

Thanks to all who helped, this forum rules.

[Chuck Moreland]

The SAW bars are well known for this problem. They don't fit all that well.

Be sure to grease the splines well. That will help when you need to remove them. Grease the whole bar for corrosion protection.

Glad you got it sorted out.

[J Smith]

Brian, you have no idea. The things that went through my head when I thought I trashed those inner splines: part out the car, rear coil set-up, suicide....

The thing is I have so much time and $$ into this car (like many here I'm sure). This winter alone: just finished rebuilding the entire front suspension, now the doing the rear, brakes completely redone, and numerous body work just completed. And to think I could have damaged one of the few parts on the car that just can't be fixed easily (if at all).

I feel much better now, time for a stiff drink(s).

[J Smith]

Thanks for your help Chuck!

[speeder]

Good thread, glad it worked out. Just wanted to say that this is a good time to remind everyone not to get angry and force things when they don't want to fit; I've definitely done it myself and regretted it, if you just chill out and have a beverage and maybe take another (nonpissed-off) look at it, usually the problem reveals itself.

This simple rule would prevent 98% of unintentional butchering of mechanical devices, IMO. Not to mention human injuries while working on stuff. Good luck, glad it worked out.

[atlporsche]

but that's what makes us engineer...

"if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

followed by

"If it ain't broke, play with it until it does break, then invest in a CAD system to redesign it better."

sjd

[Steve87-911]

Glad you got a handle on it Josh.

Everytime I see a thread like this I have visions of greasy doorknobs, a greasy footprint on the new carpet, grease and grime all over the keyboard and mouse, and the wife coming in later screaming, "What the F#@*!"

[jester911]

And the moral of the story is...don't force it, just use bigger hammer