Just a shot in the dark here, but you mention alot of vibration in the pedals. I had this problem after my valve adjustment when I mixed up the #2 and #3 plug wires. It still ran, and had good power, but something was definitely not right. I didn't drive it long enough to see if this would cause hi temps.

You say it sounds awful after the valve adjust? What kind of sounds?

If it's valve clatter, maybe you aren't adjusting one of more of the cylinders when it/they are really at TDC.

I know this is unlikely but is there any chance you got the TDC and rotation off when moving from plug to plug?

Good suggestion. I just came back from the garage and verified that the wiring order is correct by tracing each wire and that the #1 plug wire is where it's supposed to be on the distributor.

I just had a strange thought -- could a valve spring break in a way that wouldn't be obvious when I verified the valve adjustments? I've never had a valve spring break, but it seems to me that it would be pretty obvious when you adjust the valves. Is that a correct assumption?

I had a broken valve spring for a while (only the outer spring, inner was still OK). The symptom was a sudden loss of power at 6000 rpm. I've heard that broken valve springs are common on 82 SC's, but doesn't sound like your symptoms.

It sounds like you've verified most of the important stuff. Wayne has forgotten more about these cars than I expect to ever know, but with all due respect to his remarks about the sump plate, I would rotate it. It could be that a part of the curve of that plate is still interfering with the scavenge venturi. At least, if you have noticed lower-than-expected oil pressures at the same time as overheating, then I'm pretty suspicious of that system, and the sump plate orientation.

Wasn't there an update to the sump screen on SC's to avoid a scavaging problem at high speed? If memory serves, the update eliminated the separate drain plug, so if you have a drain plug you DON'T have the update. Even though your symptoms are not happening at high speed they are exactly what you would experience, as others have noted. I would install the updated screen.

I think I probably will rotate the plate. I'll also take digital photos during the process so if it solves the problem, I'll be able to post the definitive answers and y'all will be heroes to the next poor slob who has this problem!

Howard: There was a scavenge pump upgrade I seem to recall having read about in Anderson's Performance book, but my recollection was that it was just upgrading to a 930 Turbo pump. If it was just a sump plate upgrade, I might consider it, but that upgrade (if it's the same one you're thinking of) would be major surgery. If you're thinking of something else, and know more details (or know where I can get more details) I'd be interested.

The early oil starvation problem was solved well before '82. I think it affected the first year or two of SC's ('78 and '79). I think the fix was to go to a different sump screen.

I'll be interested to hear whether the rotating of the sump plate solves the problem. I suspect it will.

The early oil starvation problem was solved well before '82. I think it affected the first year or two of SC's ('78 and '79). I think the fix was to go to a different sump screen.

I'll be interested to hear whether the rotating of the sump plate solves the problem. I suspect it will.

OK, here's what I did. I drained the oil, removed the sump plate and looked it over very carefully. There was a dent in it -- probably the result of my jacking up the car with my shop jack under the engine.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107926029.jpg

I pounded that out flat, and reinstalled the plate with the drain plug facing to the left of the car and took it for a short test drive of about 10 miles. Everything was fine, but it's not yet a definitive test -- the problem didn't appear until after I had gone over 25 miles. I'll let y'all know when I do a real test run.

Thanks for all the help, and thanks to Pelican Parts for the quicker-than-expected delivery of my replacement dipstick and books. Much obliged!

The results are in, sports fans. Chris Bennet gets a cigar for nailing the answer in the very first reply! I drove the car 90 miles today and the temperature needle never even got to half-way. Thanks to all for your your assistance, questions, and encouragement.

Now I have one more question to ask. How much damage did I do to my engine by starving it of oil in that way? :(

Probably none. If you are selective about the stuff you choose to worry about, then this is one of those things to set aside. Too much to choose from. I think you did no damage whatsoever.

The early-SC oil starvation problem folks mentioned here, happened to guys on the track. They don't seem to have damaged their engines. worry about something else. And don't jack on the plate. Jack on the rib that runs from the plate area to the fan pulley area.

I like to be selective of the stuff I worry about, and I would be very happy not to worry about having killed my Porsche's engine! Thanks for the encouraging words.

As for jacking up the car, I'll take your advice. Gracias!

Not to open a can of worms... After seeing how thin the case is in the sump plate area... I will never be jacking my track car from the motor (3.0 based). I will be adding the tow hook/jack plate....

Well in fairness to Porsche engineers, I think you have to attribute my sump plate damage to my carelessness about aligning the jack and not to the gauge of metal they used on the plate. I've jacked it up this way many times before and had never damaged anything -- I blame the cold, cold weather.

Down here in North Carolina, having to put the top on is a sign of a cruel winter! ;)

alls well that.......

that must be a relief.

personally i would avoid lifting in that manner - use the chasis. jmho.

I have not seen it, but a couple of folks have told me that the factory specifies you can jack on the rib I described. Some of those people are folks who have been dealing with Porsches for a VERY long time. I would agree that the case casting around the sump plate is thin, and I do not jack against that area. Not comfortable with that at all. But that rib is pretty substantial ("skookum" as we would say here in the PNW) and it's near the corner where it curves upward toward the pulley area. It's okay if someone wants to avoid jacking against that rib. But it's also okay if they do. Been done bazillions of times by lots of folks. The only potential problem is the smoothness of the rib. There is potential for the car to roll forward, allowing the jack to slide along the rib. So, use wood, and block the front tires.

Then, of course, place jackstands under the torsion tubes for safety.