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Okey dokey then....that was the last piece of the puzzle....I'll do some homework with body shop guys and perhaps others who *do* anodizing...to find out if a light surface prep can be done to help paint "grab".

If that is so...we may be able to do a "faux" approximation of an RSR wheel. Upside? won't spend $125-$180/ wheel. downside? Might not work, but if it goes bad...we can always (still) go to Weidman or Reed !

Wil
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85 Carrera ( gone, but not forgotten )
Old 02-07-2005, 10:21 AM
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Wil, here you go. This is the first try, not sure if I will experiment much more, I am pretty happy with it.



Jeff
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:15 PM
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Nice work Jeff!
Old 02-08-2005, 04:53 AM
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Jeff, that looks great! What was the process?
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:27 AM
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As I'm also semi-interested in changing the look of my wheels. I'm curious, how would those wheels look on this (my) car?



I've been torn between keeping them as is (original) or polishing the paddles. The finish Wil is talking about seems like a good compromise. I guess, if I didn't like it, I could always re-paint (again).

Jerry M
'78 SC
Old 02-08-2005, 05:41 AM
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JerryM:
I think it would look great !

Why?....because you have a virtual "clone" of my car !!!!

Exactly my reasoning too.....if it all goes bad...no big deal to paint the centers black again, etc....

Jeff/Catca......gorgeous work, and it proves you don't have to spend $160-$180/wheel to get this look. If done right, it should last too.

Wil
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Old 02-08-2005, 05:57 AM
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Jerry & Will,

I'm planning to do the same. I want to use 8's or 9's on the rear and move the 7's up front. I was planning to have the wheels re-anodized (My 7's need it) with the petals anodized.

I hadn't thought about paint until seeing this thread. My wife will crap if whe thinks I'm going to paint something else. I just finished painting my 1953 MG, and she loses her garage stall when the paint gun comes out....



The RSR style should look great on a silver car. I don't think polished wheels look good on silver.

As far as prep goes, if the surface is sound (ie, not flaking off) then sanding with 320-400 grit dry (600 wet) whould be good enough to hold epoxy primer (PPG). You're after a good mechanical bond to hold either self-etch or epoxy primer. If you are starting with bare metal, you'll need to use 180 grit dry.

Here's the product sheet for DPLF (PPG's epoxy primer). Dupont uses self-etch instead of epoxy.

I might do a test on my 6's later this spring. I gotta find a pair of 8's or 9's first!
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Old 02-08-2005, 06:28 AM
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Here's my rather crude photochop attemp on silver....


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Old 02-08-2005, 06:58 AM
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Ya know....I would willing to receive "free" completely damaged/unusable Fuchs as "test units"....( I'd pay shipping...)

I know...I'm shameless !!

Wil
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Old 02-08-2005, 07:00 AM
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Whoever gets this done first - post pic's and procedure. It's a little chilly here right now so (unless I can sneak the wheels into the basement) I'm sure someone else will have it done before me.

Jerry M
'78 SC
Old 02-08-2005, 07:58 AM
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The trick for me was to spray the paint onto a preheated wheel. I baked them for a few minutes to warm them up, Then sprayed with a self etching primer, baked a little again, sprayed with VHT polyurethane wheel paint in Aluminum color, baked again for about an hour. The nest day I masked off and sanded the area to be sprayed black and followed the same process. I seem to like 200-250 for temps in the oven. Spraying onto the warm/hot wheel makes the paint setup on contact and won't let it flow or level, leaving you with a rough pebbled finish. The baking seems to dull the paint down a little to. The VHT Poly paint seems to be quite durable so far. But we will see. I still have a pair of fronts to do once they arrive.

Jeff
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Old 02-08-2005, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark Wilson
Jeff, that looks great! What was the process?
Mark,

Jeff mentioned this method earlier. Looks like it came out very nicely.

"Wil I am in the middle of a little experiment on this myself. So far I have found that pre-heating the wheel in my oven to around 200 or so and spraying while hot with VHT polyurethane aluminum paint seems to yeild the "pebbled" rough look. The warm wheel does not let the paint settle itself smooth before it dries. Only about hald way there so far, but will post pics when I am done if it works. Just trying to find a Matte finish clear which is proving very difficult."


I wonder how hard it would be to get a very uniform finish with a blaster.
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Old 02-08-2005, 08:27 AM
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Rick,

I've got a blasting cabinet (currently in storage.) From my experience it's easy to get a uniform finish if you use the right media, pressure and technique. For aluminum, I would use a high quality commercial glass bead. (I tried a 50 lb bucket of glass bead from tractor supply once - it turned to powder quickly.) From there you need consistent pressure and then you need to try for a consistent angle when aiming the blasting nozzle at the surface.

If the wheel surface has a consistent metal color, it will look good after blasting.

I wonder what clear satin powder coat would look like over sandblasted fuchs. Columbia coatings lists a clear satin on their website.

Hmmm. That might be a good test.

I'm up to my neck in projects right now, so I can't even think of trying it for a few months. It would be a good excuse to get a powder coat gun....

Now I need to find an old oven.....
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Old 02-08-2005, 08:57 AM
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I think the media blasting would be the correct way to (better?) go. Any autobody supply place can mix you up an activated clear with a matte agent in it and package it in an aerosol. The only problem is you only have about 3 hrs to use it so plan accordingly. If you have a gun and can mix it yourseld, then no worries.

Jeff
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Old 02-08-2005, 12:25 PM
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I have been following this thread and thought I may offer a bit of insight. I had wheels made by Lindsey. I wanted the RSR finish (approximately). Mike bead finished mine on the spokes, but not all of the lip. The BBS "barrels" are machine finished by BBS. Wanting ease of maintenance, I decided to explore clear powder coating or clear coating of some form. Since Mike didn't offer that, I brought them to Al Reed for his and Diane's opinoin. They suggested that any clear powder coat would darken the finish, which is light and really fantastic as it is. Apparently, the effect is more pronounced with a beaded finish, rather than polished. They suggested that I wash frequently with dawn or another dish soap and that is it. They did suggest that they weren't sure this would suit forever, but that was their initial recommendation. My car will not be a daily driver or see rain, so it may be impractical for some. I'll be glad to update their solutoins' effectiveness. To me, brake dust removal seems a big impediment.

Doug
Here are some pictures:
Old 02-09-2005, 10:14 AM
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One more thought: I wonder if there is a powder coat color that matches the white / light grey of the blasted aluminum (since clear would darken).

Doug
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Old 02-09-2005, 10:19 AM
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Jerry M, here's a quick botch-job of what RSR finished wheels might look like on your car. I had some free time to kill using photoshop, I hope you don't mind.

The wheels are from the silver RSR w/ 3.6 on ebay, known as BBII's twin. So the wheel I photoshopped onto your car is a 9x15, so they are slightly off in dimension for your car, but it gives you the general idea. I think it looks great, RSR finish is my favorite for a fuch.
Old 02-09-2005, 10:43 AM
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Well you guys got me thinking that my wheels looked like ****e, so while I was getting new race rubber mounted I thought I might as well give the RSR look a go... Here's how they came out, should look good on the car
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Old 02-14-2005, 10:10 AM
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Very nice!! How do you like them Toyos? What process did you use to do your wheels?

Jeff
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Old 02-14-2005, 10:23 AM
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Thanks!

I'll comment on the Toyos after this weekend at Sears Point.

As for the painting, I first sand blasted the wheels to get rid of previous paint and anodization. Then sanded by hand to get rid of some of the pitting on the lips. Then polished up the outer edge, and taped that off. Next was 2 coats primer, followed by 2 coats silver. Next taped off the petals and lip (about 3hrs to to this to all 4 wheels...) and then sprayed 2 coats of satin black on the background.

I did not put the wheels in the oven, since my new tires were already mounted

I decided to paint the wheels with the tires mounted because I've had bad luck with tire shops screwing up wheels when mounting new tires. This way they go on the car in perfect condition...
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Old 02-14-2005, 10:33 AM
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