How do I work the feeler gauge under the elephant's foot?

H.G.P. · 02-08-2005, 01:28 PM

Is there a technique for this. With the 0.10mm gauge the thiness/britttleness of the gauge is catching on the elephants foot. I slip a 0.15mm in there and the feeler stays free and smooth.

I can't seem to know if I'm exactly at 0.10.

Paul Thomas · 02-08-2005, 01:45 PM

Back the screw out and pull it off of the valve, slide the feeler in and tighten it back down.

LakeCleElum · 02-08-2005, 01:49 PM

If it won't slide in, it's on the tight side. Loosen, get the gauge in and finger tighten, then tighten the lock nut......

H.G.P. · 02-08-2005, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LakeCleElum
If it won't slide in, it's on the tight side. Loosen, get the gauge in and finger tighten, then tighten the lock nut......

I get it in there, tighten the screw, when I slide it out (the 0.10mm gauge), it "grabs" and swivels the elephant's foot, although the gauge can then be withdrawn.

So i.e. I'm not sure how much "grabbing" that 0.10mm should do. The 0.15mm being stiffer, does not flex and grab the swivel foot.

ckissick · 02-08-2005, 03:54 PM

Do you have the special valve adjusting feeler gauge? It comes with the 0.1mm blade. I'm thinking that if you have a 0.15mm blade, then you have a regular feeler gauge. The thicker blade should never fit in there, anyway. I'm assuming that you loosen it enough to try out the 0.15mm blade?

Swiveling the elephant's foot should be no problem when sliding the gauge out. If you have the proper feeler gauge, you can slide it back and forth in a sideways motion, or rotate, or whatever, to get a good feel for the degree of fit. Just get the gauge in there so there is no bending of the gauge, then when you're satisfied, just slip it out. Ooh, I'm getting excited...

masraum · 02-08-2005, 04:25 PM

Tickle him behind the ear?

Did I win something for the correct answer?

H.G.P. · 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ckissick
Do you have the special valve adjusting feeler gauge? It comes with the 0.1mm blade. I'm thinking that if you have a 0.15mm blade, then you have a regular feeler gauge. The thicker blade should never fit in there, anyway. I'm assuming that you loosen it enough to try out the 0.15mm blade?

Swiveling the elephant's foot should be no problem when sliding the gauge out. If you have the proper feeler gauge, you can slide it back and forth in a sideways motion, or rotate, or whatever, to get a good feel for the degree of fit. Just get the gauge in there so there is no bending of the gauge, then when you're satisfied, just slip it out. Ooh, I'm getting excited...

I have the "standard" 0.10 mm blade and a seperate

0.15mm (on another set)

When you say the "thicker blade" are you refering to the 0.15mm?

The 0.10 (.004) is just more flimsy.

I am sliding them in there while pulling back holding the rocker in between my fingers. They will slide around in there, but when I'm sliding them around in there (particularly upon withdrawl), inevitably, the foot will "catch" and swivel the foot. (the 0.15mm hard to drag)

Mike Feinstein · Mike Feinstein's Garage

Your forgot to grease the camel toe.

Can't believe I just wrote that....

H.G.P. · 02-08-2005, 06:59 PM

Well I think I figured what I was needed. I needed to approach the foot and the top of the valve at the correct angle. When I brought the 0.10mm from the top down parallel between the foot and the top of the valve it slips in correctly.

The other 0.15mm was deceiving because I was approaching it from the side which then it would seem to go in, but partially, due to a wedging effect, as the elephant foot would swivel in proportion.

dweymer · dweymer's Garage

Mike said camel toe...lmao

ckissick · 02-09-2005, 08:26 AM

Um, yes the .15 is thicker than the .10. 50% thicker. The number refers to how thick the blade is. The .15 should never fit in there, and it should not move at all, if it is in there. If it does, it's way too loose. It sounds like you discovered one trick, which is coming in from the best side of the foot. This will change from valve to valve. Experiment.

H.G.P. · 02-11-2005, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ckissick
Um, yes the .15 is thicker than the .10. 50% thicker. The number refers to how thick the blade is. The .15 should never fit in there, and it should not move at all, if it is in there. If it does, it's way too loose. It sounds like you discovered one trick, which is coming in from the best side of the foot. This will change from valve to valve. Experiment.

I want to thank you Charlie for this comment, really has helped (probably would have been way off otherwise) both my valve adjustment and cam timing.

The "50% thicker", and "This will change from valve to valve" were home runs. My cams are timed this evening, dead on in the TDC overlap middle at 3.15 (69 911E)

Thanks again

addictionMS · addictionMS's Garage

if you want to be sure to have it right, if you have a caliper, set it to .10 and put the feeler gauge int he gap and slide it around and feel how much drag there is. That is what you are trying to get to.

Jim

H.G.P. · 02-11-2005, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by addictionMS
if you want to be sure to have it right, if you have a caliper, set it to .10 and put the feeler gauge int he gap and slide it around and feel how much drag there is. That is what you are trying to get to.

Jim

Thanks for the reminder, I did this originally with the feelers but forgot about it when I obtained the .10mm feeler gauge. I need to to this with the .10mm. before doing the other valves. Thanks

Driver Ed · Driver Ed's Garage

I just did my valve adjustment recently. For what it's worth, I always start with the #1 intake valve because it's easiest to get to and you can use an inspection mirror to see where the feeler gauge is. Once I re-train myself on the #1 cylinder, making note of the angle and the depth of the feeler gauge, it's a lot easier to translate that to #6 way back in the back where you can't see anything.

Also, it's probably better to have the valves a bit too loose than a bit too tight, if that helps. The caliper suggestion was a good one too, if you're not used to feeler gauges.

Also, if you haven't already got one, you REALLY need one of these tricky little Porsche valve adjustment tools

Naturally, our sponsor sells 'em.

Nine9six · Nine9six's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by addictionMS
if you want to be sure to have it right, if you have a caliper, set it to .10 and put the feeler gauge int he gap and slide it around and feel how much drag there is. That is what you are trying to get to.

Jim

Im sorry, but I have to disagree with you Jim. Two objects of the same size cannot occupy the same space. I.e, You cannot insert a .500 pin gage into a .500 hole. Either the gage must be smaller, or the hole must be bigger. Otherwise you will have a metal to metal fit. Therefore you should not be able to slide a .10 feeler into a caliper set at .10

addictionMS · addictionMS's Garage

try it and you will see the feeler does fit into the caliper

Jim

Wil Ferch · 02-12-2005, 07:52 AM

Factoid:

- the tool that "Driver Ed" shows is Porsche 213, I believe, and it comes in a "B" suffix that was produced later.....you can do the same thing by simply bending the angle of the blade attachment so it's closer to 90 degress. I also tighten the "curve" on the other end to gain more tool control.

- use blue loctitie on the teensy screws that hold the blade in-place. Losing the blade ( worse..the screws ! ) inside your engine will guarantee a "bad hair day " !!!!!

- use a micrometer on the 0.1 mm blades...which , on this side of the pond.... are probably 0.004". When I miked my last set ALL were 0.0042" to about 0.0047".... a "fat" 0.1 mm. Take note of this.

Wil