Polybronze Spring P+late Bushing Install
 

I am installing the Elephant Racing polybronze spring plate bushings on my 1973 RSR clone. I am using the late model adjustable spring plates. My questions is...How much resistance to movement should there be when the spring plate is installed without the torsion bar? I installed the spring plate bushings and cover as per the instructions using the (4) spacers per side and found that I needed to apply about 25 ft-lbs of torque to rotate the spring plate. I then tried the install again using all (8) spacers on one side and found the resistance to movement was much less (the spring plate can just about supported it's own weight without rotating). How much resistance is correct? If I double up on the spacers, I'll need to use a longer bolt on in one of the hole locations.

Anyone have any experience with this?

I imagine it is similar to the fronts I installed on mine. You want as little binding as possible with no free play or looseness. 25lbs of pressure sounds like a bit much to me.

I responded to Tom offline, but for the benefit of others:

Factory adjustable spring plates are thicker than non-adjustables. When retrofitting facotry adjustables to an early car, you need to add additional spacers (washers) to accomodate the extra thickness.

This is specifically called out in the installation instructions included with the product.

With the proper spacers, the spring plates will move very freely (with tbars removed).

Thanks Chuck

This worked just as described. I used the old 2mm thick washers from my original spring plates and trailing arms. No binding and easy rotation.

This is what I love about this website. I have a problem while working in the garage in the evening and when I get up in the morning, one of you has posted a solution.

Thanks again.

Hmmmm so when I put the factory adjustable spring plates on my early car w/o the poly bronze what should I have done?? What dimension is it thicker in???

There are too many variables dealing with this spring plate business. For instance, I had a binding problem using just the plastic urethane rear bushings. So I sanded and "radiussed" the square edge of the bushing that rests against the inside curved part of the outer retainer. This allowed the bushing to settle into the retainer a little deeper and not pinch down at the outside causing undue friction. On one, it is almost too flush and I may have to shim it back out a bit after driving some more to be sure the spring plate doesn't contact the retainer metal to metal.

Somewhere, someone explained that you had to grind the stand off bolt mounts to clear the installation of the SwayAway adjustable type. You think I could find this last week when I needed it? Not a chance. And, the articles in the tech section...........well, look at it this way. The main one is by Chuck before he even sold his products. He was using neatrix!!!

Now that's helpful............

Zeke's post reminds me....

for those using plastic bushings for the rear outboard locations...it is *vitally important* to radius the OD of the new bushings to conform as much as possible to the curvature of he inner surface of the "retainer" ( the piece surrounding the torsion bar with 4 bolts)....

Wil