While I'm in there..... (sigh)
 

The time has come. My SC went into the shop on Monday for a major service. The engine came out for installation of the hydraulic tensioner upgrade and whatever else we were gonna find in there.

Warning: gratuitous pics to follow.

So far, the list of "while I'm in there" extends to:

Clutch replacement - the one that came out already has shiny spots on two rivets on the clutch disk.
Engine mounts replacement - both are sagging.
One tensioner collapsed - the reason for getting in there in the first place.
Replacement of oil return tubes to seal leaks.
Cosmetic stuff like powder coating all the sheetmetal & replacement of air pipes.
Rear main seal replacement.
Gearbox input shaft seal replacement.
Flywheel machining.

The "gasp" factor came when we reviewed the oil leak that can be seen at the cylinder bases. My mechanic is of the opinion that he should remove the cylinders to replace the base gaskets, reseal one of the through-bolts and re-glue the pressed-in oil tube just below the oil cooler.

The engine was re-ringed and cylinder heads reconditioned about 80k km (50k miles) ago. Current oil consumption is about 500ml (1 pint) per 750 km (450 miles), but I guess it was leaking more than it burned. No smoking on acceleration or decelration was visible. The top of the engine is bone dry, no leaks from the usual suspects like breather hose, oil pressure switch etc.

I guess I'm just looking for moral support, and suggestions for anything else to consider doing while the engine is sitting naked on the stand. The options are:

Re-ring again depending on condition?
Valve guides?
Anything else?

LeRoux

The car sans engine:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1108492674.jpg

The grotty engine before work started:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1108492743.jpg

Two of the assistants in the shop - the guy on the right is Porsche trained and worked on 911's for 12 years:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1108492856.jpg

The collapsed tensioner - if you press upwards on the idler arm, the tensioner sags down:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1108492910.jpg

The bum factor - cylinder base leak at #6. Cyls #1 and 3 are also sweating in the same place:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1108493056.jpg

LeRoux
How about finned valve covers for the lower side. I believe they are less prone to warping and therefore reduce the chance of leaks from that area (anybody confirm?).

It would seem silly to not at least check the condition of the valve guides etc while it's apart. I would imagine a huge part of the cost is just getting it all apart.

If you're feeling flush, you could fit one of Tony's Megasquirt EFI Kits.

Finally, maybe get in at your engine bay while there's room to move and detail it. Possibly replace the old sound pad if it's crumbling??

Keep us posted

No.6 exhaust valve looks a bit off colour...

I just noticed that :( . I'll look into it. Leakdown test is in progress as we speak.

The sound pad is still in good condition and will be re-glued, then the whole engine bay will be steamcleaned before refitting the engine.

leRoux

Good time for some cams?

Le Roux,

Does this mean you found that new job you were looking for?? ;)

Who is your mechanic? (the workshop looks like M&R...?)

Cheers!

Willem Fick

The car is with Rob Scott at RS Autosport.

Further disassembly revealed a broken cylinder base gasket at #6 cyl, the source of the oil leak.

I'm now in for a re-ring job and new valve guides since its all apart anyway.

LeRoux