RESTO Paint Procces

[vizail]

Hi Guys
I'm in the process of desasembly of my 911. I have seen the Discovery Channel Series on Car's RESTO by Boid Codington in California.
Since the 911 is a Galvanized Material. What kind of Paint remover I have to use?
And what kind of Primer and Finish is recomended?

Cordially

Vic

[dweymer]

The most popular paint remover is called "aircraft stripper" it is very good. If you have never painted a car, practice on spare panels a few times before you try on the 911. Also, porsche galvanized after 1976, only body panels before that, i think. A "self-etching" primer would be the best over bare metal.

[vizail]

Aircraft Stripper in the gelly type or Naval Gelly , I'm more interested in the refinishing system, Primer ,Prep Coat and then paint for this Galvanized Car's

Vic

[randywebb]

Also be aware that these are dangerous chemicals - a mask is not enough as skin absorbtion can be a problem too. Don't do it in a residential neighborhood either - if some guy did it near me I'd be on his a&()*& well you get the idea. It might fly depending on where you are in Puerto Rico...

Then there is the issue of getting any down in the chassis where it will continue to work for the next few years....

Most pros sand the paint off... or so they tell me.

[Zeke]

Originally posted by randywebb


Most pros sand the paint off... or so they tell me.

Randy, yes and no to that. You know that sanding into the galvy can have repercussions with respect to the car and to one's health. I really can't fault stripper used properly. Once dried, the waste is relatively safe and stable.

I said relatively, now................

[randywebb]

Sure.

My concern is mainly with the wet stuff.

And, yup - you doan wanna be breathing zinc dust....

[RichMink76]

I am in the Process of restoring My 911. I stripped the three coats of paint off with "Aircraft Stripper". The next step is to wipe down with a wax and grease remover. Then the etching primer. After that comes the sandable primer and alot of block sanding (alot). then you apply the base coat and then clear coat. Your local auto paint store can give you a more detailed description of products and processes that are involved.
it is very time consuming and messy for the DIY but very cost effective also.

[vizail]

ZEKE ,Randy and Rich

Galvanization that is my concern, once you sand the top of the metal. The galvanization is removed by the sanding ?

Vic

[randywebb]

It could be - Zeke can fill you in and even maybe assess your body shop skills remotely...

But if you strip, won't you still have to sand somewhat to smooth it out? Zeke?

[Rich76_911s]

An additional means to strip paint from the car is from media blasting. I don't know much about it, but I know it is an option. From what I understand the media of choice is plastic pellets. I am in the process of trying to figure out how to strip a porsche and get it ready for the primer too. If anyone has more information on any of these process' I am all ears.

[randywebb]

and don't forget you can use one type over the big panels and another where stuff might drip into hidden or hard to reach channels...

[Porschekid962]

Blake and blast, some powdercoating shops will throw the shell into their oven and bake it so that all that fun undercoating and sound deadining melts itself and then they blast it with walnut shell media. The aircraft stuff is great if your just stripping exterior body panels, a mask is a must, and gloves, the stuff kinda burns a little if it gets on your skin. I have found if you just drag some rough sand paper over the paint first, then apply a healthy coat of stripper and cover it with a tarp it comes off very easily.

I am going with the bake and blast as I want everything off the metal. Then a coat of PPG dx 170 or something like that, its an epoxy primer looks like olive drab. Then any bodywork and a coat of high build primer. Block sanding, final sand, base coat, clear coat. And your done! have fun

[randywebb]

Two words people:

"skin absorbtion"

[Porschekid962]

I agree randy, I wore my respirator I use for painting, safety glasses, 2 layers of gloves, pants, long sleeve shirt and bought some cheap paper painting suits. Goofy lookin but I like my brain cells and skin happy!

[niner11]

Been doing a lot of research on this lately. Some pro's at the hotrodders board www.hotrodders.com can answer any paint or body question that you may have.

From what I gather: bare metal, epoxy primer, then apply filler as needed, any 2k highbuild primer, then again use the epoxy primer as a sealer, follow with base coat/ clear coat.

good luck

[Gumba11]

I used POR-STRIP by the makers of POR-15 rust preventive. This stuff is amazing. It took off the work of several idiots that painted the car before I owned it.

From the stripping stand point it looks to have had the original paint plus two more complete paint jobs on top of that. I took the car to bare metal and I am finally ready to go to primer this weekend. WHAT A PROJECT!

It will all be worth it in the end. I am also doing a color change while im at it. It was Carrera white and now will be SCREAMING bright canary yellow! I have always wanted a yellow race car.

Here is a pic of the car I am using for a model for my build, including the bannana wing. This car is on the Pelican site in the California festival of speed pics.

What do you all think of the color choice. Some say too bright but I was told in support of my decision......"If your gonna be a bear, you might as well be a grizzly!"



.................................................. .C

[Willem Fick]

Like some of the guys here, I too was worried about skin absorbtion of the chemicals in Aircraft Stripper. The best way to solve that is good ventilation.

As for contact absorption; I was concerned until I actually got some onto my skin. It stings like crazy, and I bet you'll have it washed off before you can even say "absorbtion"! Good ventilation, gloves, respirator, and coveralls are absolutely essential!

Nice tip on cleaning smaller components. Water and stripper don't mix, so pour some stripper into a container, and cover with water. The water prevents the stripper from drying out making it effective for longer , and also noxious fumes from escaping. I've used my container for two months now, only topping up the water from time to time to make up for evaporation.

Dip small components into the container using thin wire, and leave for a while. Once you pull them out, most the paint will remain behind. Simply rinse with fuel/thinners, which not only will serve a a means of rinsing off any remaining paint, but also neutralizes the stripper.

As for sanding:

You'll find that stripper really leaves a very clean surface. The last remnants of paint are easiest removed using a wire brush on an anglegrinder or drill, as this won't damage a galvanised surface nearly to the same extent as sanding would. Again, use coveralls and eye protection, as brushes tend to shred wire bits, and these thing penetrate skin and flesh easily!

I actually prefer using a full face shield when grinding or wire-brushing, as opposed to safety glasses only, as I would hate to have bits of wire poking into my face...

After cleaning it's simply degreaser, self etch primer, sandable primer (you get a combination self-etch/filler primer too), basecoat, clearcoat...

Cheers!

Willem Fick

[dmcummins]

I have an early car so no galvanized panels. I used a combination of aircraft stripper, sanding, and a wire wheel. Then after cleaning I used etch primer and a high build primer after that. Im still in the primer and sanding stage right now.

[dmcummins]

The above pic is after the aircraft stripper. I then hit it with 80 grit and a wire wheel. The doors I just sanded off. I used a angle grinder with a wire wheel and my buffer with 80 grit sanding pads.

[304065]

I got some aircraft stipper on my CHEEK for about 30 seconds, left a nickel-sized burn for a month that looked like a German duelling scar.